Engine Oil
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 202
Likes: 37
From: North Carolina
Engine Oil
So I took my 98 up the mountain again! Love the handling now that I have my c6z anti-roll bars.. Now I'm waiting to order tires for my new wheels.
Anywho... Pushed the car pretty hard today, running 2nd and third gear the whole time around 60-80 mph (high rpm's).
Noticed my oil temps were rising! Coolant temps seemed fine, they stayed around 220 but the oil temperatures reached up to 243 before I stopped to let it cool down.
I did a little searching and read that it is not uncommon for these cars (without oil coolers) to reach 300* F at the track. Further research told me that the Mobile 1 5w30 has a very low viscosity at these temps and that 10w30 would be a better option (I'm in NC, not super hot and not extremely cold)
My question: Should I switch to 10w30? I frequent these mountains and will only run the car harder and will be doing a few HPDE days later in the year.
If I were to switch to 10w30 is it okay to just switch to it immediately next oil change?
If I switch to 10w30 can I change it over to Royal Purple 10w30 at the same time? How does switching brands of oil work is that safe? Or should I use Mobile 1 10w30 to keep it the same brand?
Sorry for the lengthy thread! Thanks in advance!
Anywho... Pushed the car pretty hard today, running 2nd and third gear the whole time around 60-80 mph (high rpm's).
Noticed my oil temps were rising! Coolant temps seemed fine, they stayed around 220 but the oil temperatures reached up to 243 before I stopped to let it cool down.
I did a little searching and read that it is not uncommon for these cars (without oil coolers) to reach 300* F at the track. Further research told me that the Mobile 1 5w30 has a very low viscosity at these temps and that 10w30 would be a better option (I'm in NC, not super hot and not extremely cold)
My question: Should I switch to 10w30? I frequent these mountains and will only run the car harder and will be doing a few HPDE days later in the year.
If I were to switch to 10w30 is it okay to just switch to it immediately next oil change?
If I switch to 10w30 can I change it over to Royal Purple 10w30 at the same time? How does switching brands of oil work is that safe? Or should I use Mobile 1 10w30 to keep it the same brand?
Sorry for the lengthy thread! Thanks in advance!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,644
Likes: 479
From: OK
Let the wars begin
jezz keeding
Racer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 398
Likes: 22
From: Las Vegas NV
M1 10w-30 is actually a bit thinner at those temps than M1 5w-30. 10w-30 will be heavier at start up.
That being said 240'ish* is no problem for either oil. 265-270* is time to pay attention if its going to be that hot for an extended period on those oils.
That being said 240'ish* is no problem for either oil. 265-270* is time to pay attention if its going to be that hot for an extended period on those oils.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 202
Likes: 37
From: North Carolina
Hmm well it was only in the 60's yesterday so I'd imagine that during the summer when it's 90+ I'll definitely be reaching those temps or higher
Racer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 398
Likes: 22
From: Las Vegas NV
Just food for thought...in reality, you'll probably be fine running any quality synthetic but it's smart to be aware there's better options out there
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 7,794
Likes: 2,256
From: Brighton MI
I've gone to using Mobil1 15W-50 in all of my collector cars, including the '97 Vette. Primarily due to the enhanced zinc and phosphorus content.
https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...ecs-guide.ashx
Might be overkill for a street driven car, but it doesn't cost any more than the 5W-30 and IMO provides superior protection.
I would not use it if I drove the car in cold temps as a DD, but I don't. Only a summer car.
https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...ecs-guide.ashx
Might be overkill for a street driven car, but it doesn't cost any more than the 5W-30 and IMO provides superior protection.
I would not use it if I drove the car in cold temps as a DD, but I don't. Only a summer car.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 739
From: Miami FL
The above mentioned chart from Mobil provides very interesting data indeed.
Mobil1 High Mileage 5W30 meets the SL rating and has a phosphorous content of 1000 ppm and a zinc content of 1100 ppm
Sent from my DROID TURBO XT1254 using IB AutoGroup
Mobil1 High Mileage 5W30 meets the SL rating and has a phosphorous content of 1000 ppm and a zinc content of 1100 ppm
Sent from my DROID TURBO XT1254 using IB AutoGroup
Last edited by GCG; Mar 25, 2015 at 09:30 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,686
Likes: 20
From: Florida, Hell's Doorstep
Mobil One sucks,plain and simple. Take a good look at just how bad it is.Educate yourself,let no one tell you whats best. It's not as important how hot your oil gets as opposed to how much pressure it can withstand under a heavy load.The temps you will see racing will never be a big a problem with your oil as will a loss of film shear strength and that is what trashes an engine. I trust in physics and science Read this in its entirety, look at the pics of the results, be your own judge.One more thing , this test is at room temps, so imagine how sh!tty Mobil 1 is at 300 degrees. No thanks my engine is no test dummy and I use only the purple oil (HPS) much more zinc and phosphorus.Thanks for reminding me ,time to order another case. http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
One more thing , this test is at room temps, so imagine how sh!tty Mobil 1 is at 300 degrees. No thanks my engine is no test dummy and I use only the purple oil (HPS) much more zinc and phosphorus.Thanks for reminding me ,time to order another case. http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
Last edited by ONE BMF; Mar 25, 2015 at 10:10 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,473
Likes: 691
From: West Virginia
...and other people will push Amsoil, Redline, etc., etc. Ho, hum....
Like quite a few other people, I am running M1 High Mileage. No issues, it's a 17 year old car that does not burn any oil, does not require topping up between changes, and has always been run on M1.
As others say, any quality synthetic that meets the GM standard will do the job. If I tracked it, I would go up a weight or so, but since our winters get down to 0F and it's a daily driver, I'll stick with a 5-something.
Like quite a few other people, I am running M1 High Mileage. No issues, it's a 17 year old car that does not burn any oil, does not require topping up between changes, and has always been run on M1.
As others say, any quality synthetic that meets the GM standard will do the job. If I tracked it, I would go up a weight or so, but since our winters get down to 0F and it's a daily driver, I'll stick with a 5-something.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,686
Likes: 20
From: Florida, Hell's Doorstep
...and other people will push Amsoil, Redline, etc., etc. Ho, hum....
Like quite a few other people, I am running M1 High Mileage. No issues, it's a 17 year old car that does not burn any oil, does not require topping up between changes, and has always been run on M1.
As others say, any quality synthetic that meets the GM standard will do the job. If I tracked it, I would go up a weight or so, but since our winters get down to 0F and it's a daily driver, I'll stick with a 5-something.
Like quite a few other people, I am running M1 High Mileage. No issues, it's a 17 year old car that does not burn any oil, does not require topping up between changes, and has always been run on M1.
As others say, any quality synthetic that meets the GM standard will do the job. If I tracked it, I would go up a weight or so, but since our winters get down to 0F and it's a daily driver, I'll stick with a 5-something.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 185
Likes: 3
Wow, now theres an intellectual, mature response 
In reality, there is nothing wrong with 90% of the newer synthetic oils. As a daily driver, the M1 5-30 is fine as long as your oil pressure is acceptable to you. Amsoil is great stuff but expensive and some claim royal purple doesn't have a good seal conditioning package but it's also good stuff. I personally run M1 Euro 0-40 right now and I'm pleased with it as are the results from blackstone labs. I also throw a 4oz bottle of Howards max ZDDP additive in with it. I run mine pretty hard and have had oil temps up to 250 with no issue. If you wanna go with the best, go with Joe Gibbs Driven synthetic but expect to PAY. We run it in our nascar modified and it's a $175 oil change but we get 6-8 races out of it because it's additive package is so good. There's nothing wrong with M1 0-40 or the high mileage for a hard driven street car. Don't get worried about what the magazine "scientists" say, they are paid by the oils that advertise in their stuff.
In reality, there is nothing wrong with 90% of the newer synthetic oils. As a daily driver, the M1 5-30 is fine as long as your oil pressure is acceptable to you. Amsoil is great stuff but expensive and some claim royal purple doesn't have a good seal conditioning package but it's also good stuff. I personally run M1 Euro 0-40 right now and I'm pleased with it as are the results from blackstone labs. I also throw a 4oz bottle of Howards max ZDDP additive in with it. I run mine pretty hard and have had oil temps up to 250 with no issue. If you wanna go with the best, go with Joe Gibbs Driven synthetic but expect to PAY. We run it in our nascar modified and it's a $175 oil change but we get 6-8 races out of it because it's additive package is so good. There's nothing wrong with M1 0-40 or the high mileage for a hard driven street car. Don't get worried about what the magazine "scientists" say, they are paid by the oils that advertise in their stuff.
Last edited by 95Z28M6; Mar 27, 2015 at 10:24 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,321
Likes: 1,586
From: Western NY
Don't put words in my mouth jackofflad.And saying any synthetic oil will do the job is FALSE. Your M1 is **** oil tested and failed. I'm not pushing any oil ,use the cheap oil, i don't give a ****. All i said was educate yourself and i'm sure you didn't.Look at the pics, even you can look at pics and results and STFU until then. Any idiot can see the failures of other oils under pressure.ALL synthetic oils are not the same. Now go ho hum your boyfriend. Meets GM standards,thats a f@cking laugh in itself. Look at the pics of the miserable performance of your M1- Mobil is **** for oil etc. etc etc. Amsoil refused to participate because it would have failed miserably too and they know it. F@cking smartass,,,i mean dumbass
Fall out of the wrong side of the bed, today??
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,644
Likes: 479
From: OK
Don't put words in my mouth jackofflad.And saying any synthetic oil will do the job is FALSE. Your M1 is **** oil tested and failed. I'm not pushing any oil ,use the cheap oil, i don't give a ****. All i said was educate yourself and i'm sure you didn't.Look at the pics, even you can look at pics and results and STFU until then. Any idiot can see the failures of other oils under pressure.ALL synthetic oils are not the same. Now go ho hum your boyfriend. Meets GM standards,thats a f@cking laugh in itself. Look at the pics of the miserable performance of your M1- Mobil is **** for oil etc. etc etc. Amsoil refused to participate because it would have failed miserably too and they know it. F@cking smartass,,,i mean dumbass
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 185
Likes: 3