So I took my 98 up the mountain again! Love the handling now that I have my c6z anti-roll bars.. Now I'm waiting to order tires for my new wheels.

Anywho... Pushed the car pretty hard today, running 2nd and third gear the whole time around 60-80 mph (high rpm's).

Noticed my oil temps were rising! Coolant temps seemed fine, they stayed around 220 but the oil temperatures reached up to 243 before I stopped to let it cool down.

I did a little searching and read that it is not uncommon for these cars (without oil coolers) to reach 300* F at the track. Further research told me that the Mobile 1 5w30 has a very low viscosity at these temps and that 10w30 would be a better option (I'm in NC, not super hot and not extremely cold)

My question: Should I switch to 10w30? I frequent these mountains and will only run the car harder and will be doing a few HPDE days later in the year.

If I were to switch to 10w30 is it okay to just switch to it immediately next oil change?

If I switch to 10w30 can I change it over to Royal Purple 10w30 at the same time? How does switching brands of oil work is that safe? Or should I use Mobile 1 10w30 to keep it the same brand?

Sorry for the lengthy thread! Thanks in advance!

 

IMHO you should stick with the Mobil 1. You can switch to the 10w30 whenever you want to problem.

 

So, are you saying that Mobil 1 isn't any good because it might not be your "personal choice?"
Let the wars begin

jezz keeding

 

Okay thanks for the input! Definitely don't want to start a oil war! We have enough of those!

I'll probably bump up to 10w30 mobile 1 when my oil change comes around

 

M1 10w-30 is actually a bit thinner at those temps than M1 5w-30. 10w-30 will be heavier at start up.

That being said 240'ish* is no problem for either oil. 265-270* is time to pay attention if its going to be that hot for an extended period on those oils.

 

Hmm well it was only in the 60's yesterday so I'd imagine that during the summer when it's 90+ I'll definitely be reaching those temps or higher

 

I'd run a better 30w oil(Amsoil, Redline, M1 high mileage etc) or go to M1 0w-40. They simply handle high heat better. M1 5w-30 is a great all-around street oil and you'll get the "I'll stick with what the GM engineers say"...and they're right if your street driving. GM engineers also say go to a 15w-50 oil in the C7's under track conditions(i.e. high, extended period oil temps).

Just food for thought...in reality, you'll probably be fine running any quality synthetic but it's smart to be aware there's better options out there

 

I've gone to using Mobil1 15W-50 in all of my collector cars, including the '97 Vette. Primarily due to the enhanced zinc and phosphorus content.

https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...ecs-guide.ashx

Might be overkill for a street driven car, but it doesn't cost any more than the 5W-30 and IMO provides superior protection.

I would not use it if I drove the car in cold temps as a DD, but I don't. Only a summer car.

 

The above mentioned chart from Mobil provides very interesting data indeed.

Mobil1 High Mileage 5W30 meets the SL rating and has a phosphorous content of 1000 ppm and a zinc content of 1100 ppm

Sent from my DROID TURBO XT1254 using IB AutoGroup

 

Mobil One sucks,plain and simple. Take a good look at just how bad it is.Educate yourself,let no one tell you whats best. It's not as important how hot your oil gets as opposed to how much pressure it can withstand under a heavy load.The temps you will see racing will never be a big a problem with your oil as will a loss of film shear strength and that is what trashes an engine. I trust in physics and science Read this in its entirety, look at the pics of the results, be your own judge.One more thing , this test is at room temps, so imagine how sh!tty Mobil 1 is at 300 degrees. No thanks my engine is no test dummy and I use only the purple oil (HPS) much more zinc and phosphorus.Thanks for reminding me ,time to order another case. http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

 

...and other people will push Amsoil, Redline, etc., etc. Ho, hum....

Like quite a few other people, I am running M1 High Mileage. No issues, it's a 17 year old car that does not burn any oil, does not require topping up between changes, and has always been run on M1.

As others say, any quality synthetic that meets the GM standard will do the job. If I tracked it, I would go up a weight or so, but since our winters get down to 0F and it's a daily driver, I'll stick with a 5-something.

 

Don't put words in my mouth jackofflad.And saying any synthetic oil will do the job is FALSE. Your M1 is **** oil tested and failed. I'm not pushing any oil ,use the cheap oil, i don't give a ****. All i said was educate yourself and i'm sure you didn't.Look at the pics, even you can look at pics and results and STFU until then. Any idiot can see the failures of other oils under pressure.ALL synthetic oils are not the same. Now go ho hum your boyfriend. Meets GM standards,thats a f@cking laugh in itself. Look at the pics of the miserable performance of your M1- Mobil is **** for oil etc. etc etc. Amsoil refused to participate because it would have failed miserably too and they know it. F@cking smartass,,,i mean dumbass

 

Wow, now theres an intellectual, mature response

In reality, there is nothing wrong with 90% of the newer synthetic oils. As a daily driver, the M1 5-30 is fine as long as your oil pressure is acceptable to you. Amsoil is great stuff but expensive and some claim royal purple doesn't have a good seal conditioning package but it's also good stuff. I personally run M1 Euro 0-40 right now and I'm pleased with it as are the results from blackstone labs. I also throw a 4oz bottle of Howards max ZDDP additive in with it. I run mine pretty hard and have had oil temps up to 250 with no issue. If you wanna go with the best, go with Joe Gibbs Driven synthetic but expect to PAY. We run it in our nascar modified and it's a $175 oil change but we get 6-8 races out of it because it's additive package is so good. There's nothing wrong with M1 0-40 or the high mileage for a hard driven street car. Don't get worried about what the magazine "scientists" say, they are paid by the oils that advertise in their stuff.

 

Sounds like an oil war to me

 

Oh lord what have I started!! 😳😳

I am curious what these anti mobile users are running though and why do you use it? I'm curious and coming up on an oil change

 

Fall out of the wrong side of the bed, today??

 

Forget to take your meds?

 

Al based on an electric motor grinding two pieces of metal together with weight on it. Such a good comparison to a crank and rods floating in a bearing with oil being forced through under pressure. Glad I got that education to take with me.