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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 03:29 PM
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Default No brake lights

Hoping someone can shed some light on my situation. My 98 A4 is only powering up the 3rd brake light, the two on each side dont work for brake but they do turn on as parking lamps and they work as turn signals. Ive read several threads this one being the most helpful

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rn-lights.html

I am not sure if I should pull the indicator switch or the hazard switch. One of those two has to be causing the issue.

By the way the hazard switch blinks on the dash but doesnt blink the lights yet if i push it in really hard and hold it it will blink the hazards.

Any ideas?
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Have you tried operating the hazard switch rapidly eight or so times in a row and see if anything changes??? ie on-off-on-off..... Sometimes this will clear the problem for a brief time (but it will come back). Easy to try and would help isolate the issue to the hazard switch vs the multi-function stalk.........

Thanks for your prompt reply, ive cycled it prob close to 100 times and even pulled the cap and sprayed wd 40 in there

NO LUCK

Im thinking its easier to try replacing the hazard switch first?

This dude takes the prize for the easiest strategy!


Last edited by Rconce01; Apr 22, 2015 at 04:08 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
I'll offer that IMHO WD40 was not a good choice to spray into an electrical contact environment. Contact cleaner yes but I would not use WD40....


Replacemet Hazard switch is about $45 as I recall but a lot less expansive than the multi-function switch. Hopefully the problem is the hazard switch.......

I appreciate it, well i'll def swap it out now since the wd40 might just screw it.

Dam i didnt know that wd40 wasnt good on electrical, I thought it had a similar effect to dielectric grease.

The Dorman hazard switch from Advance Auto is $25 down here in s fla
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 02:04 AM
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Well damn lol. Thats a good You tube video! Id check the contacts for the switch first. Cause chevy wiring sucks. Anyone tried that first?
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Rconce01
I appreciate it, well i'll def swap it out now since the wd40 might just screw it.

Dam i didnt know that wd40 wasnt good on electrical, I thought it had a similar effect to dielectric grease.

The Dorman hazard switch from Advance Auto is $25 down here in s fla
Dielectrics are insulators.

I agree your problem is surely in the Hazard switch. The power for the 4 rear brake lights go thru it. The 3rd brake light goes around it.


Here are 4 ways to replace a Hazard switch.

1. Remove the console and radio surround bezel and remove and replace the Hazard switch. Cost about $25 for a new switch and can be done in about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Very easy to do, not hard or really complicated.

After removing the console and radio bezel you need to remove the radio. If you look at your replacement switch you will see the 2 green tabs on the top and bottom that lock it in place. You will be able to see the lower one when the radio is removed. Push up on the lower tab with a screwdriver while pressing in on the lower part of the switch and you can release the lower tab. Now the switch should be angled up on the end where the wiring connects. Now take a large flat bladed screw driver and place it at the top of the switch. Give the screwdriver a swift rap with a hammer. DON’T overdo it, just a reasonable hard hit and the switch will just pop out.

How to remove the console and bezel for access to the radio:
http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html

If you have a manual transmission you can totally remove the radio bezel very easily to allow better access. No need to remove the shifter ****. Just pop the shifter boot loose and rotate it and it will allow you to lift the bezel up and over the shift boot and shifter ****.

2. Buy a Hyperflash unit for about $65 and install it under the dash. Just requires removing the Knee bolster. About a 1/2 hour job.

3. Buy a used wiring harness that goes from the steering column to the hazard switch. Remove the knee bolster and unplug the existing one and install the replacement. Then install the new Hazard switch on the other end and just place it under the ignition switch where you can access it if you ever need Hazards. Dash will look stock since the old bad switch is still there. Cost is 25$ for switch and about 25$ for used harness. Takes the same time as installing a Hyperflash unit.

Here is info on the wiring harness:

GM P/N 12163776

http://www.corvetterecycling.com/product-p/233776.htm


4. Lastly, this is what I did. A relocation similar to #3 but I used the process in #1 to move the existing wiring harness to beneath the ignition switch where I placed a new Hazard switch. I then reinstalled the old Hazard switch in the dash for a stock appearance.

Here is a link for relocation:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...elocation.html
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 09:19 AM
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I replaced mine like the you tube shows and using DADAROO's instructions I plugged in a new switch and left it just under the carpet and under the side of the console for easy access next time. I wrapped tape around the haz. button to build it up and put it back in the orig. locations for looks only, no switch behind it. Good luck
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bjones7131
I replaced mine like the you tube shows and using DADAROO's instructions I plugged in a new switch and left it just under the carpet and under the side of the console for easy access next time. I wrapped tape around the haz. button to build it up and put it back in the orig. locations for looks only, no switch behind it. Good luck
My recommendation is to put the old switch and button back in the dash when relocating. The new switch really does not need a button to actuate. The button is just for aesthetics on the dash.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 12:46 PM
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If you don't want to be swapping parts I can tell you the 2 wires to jump together at the connector under the knee bolster to bypass the hazard switch. Or, just test for voltage at the wires to see if it's getting through or not.

That video looks simple except that a factory original switch is latched into the vent so well that if you try to just shove it out you'll probably just break the vent.


Originally Posted by dadaroo
2. Buy a Hyperflash unit for about $65 and install it under the dash. Just requires removing the Knee bolster. About a 1/2 hour job.
A hyperflash harness will not fix this particular issue.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 10:40 PM
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I had this problem years ago, it turned out that a short section of the wiring harness runs outside the body in the right rear wheel well. The harness was rubbing on the control arm or the active handling strut, I just don't remember. The constant rubbing just wore through the wire jacket and broke the wire. I spliced a new wire and it has been working since.
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
A hyperflash harness will not fix this particular issue.
Thanks, and I agree. Should have removed it from my standard spiel for this issue.
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 04:34 PM
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It was the hazard switch ....its fixed just had to add some glue to keep it in place.

Thanks for all the help.
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 04:37 PM
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Yeah dam thing was broken from the previous owner. Glued it in. Thanks



Originally Posted by lionelhutz
If you don't want to be swapping parts I can tell you the 2 wires to jump together at the connector under the knee bolster to bypass the hazard switch. Or, just test for voltage at the wires to see if it's getting through or not.

That video looks simple except that a factory original switch is latched into the vent so well that if you try to just shove it out you'll probably just break the vent.




A hyperflash harness will not fix this particular issue.
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