Stumped with brake bleeding
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 349
Likes: 7
From: San Diego CA
Stumped with brake bleeding
I managed to let air into the RF-LR ('01 vert) brake circuit when changing the fluid and the reservoir ran too low.
I flushed 1/2 gallon of fluid through the system with the Motive bleeder and did the abs bleed with tech 2. But the pedal was spongy at a cold start and the brakes were pulling. I bled the brakes again, and the same story. After a few heavy brake applications the pedal is firm again and all corners are modulated by the abs. The LF-RR rotors are hotter by about 50 degrees after heavy braking, so there's gotta be air in the system yet.
What am I missing? I thought I knew how to bleed brakes, but I must be doing something wrong.
I flushed 1/2 gallon of fluid through the system with the Motive bleeder and did the abs bleed with tech 2. But the pedal was spongy at a cold start and the brakes were pulling. I bled the brakes again, and the same story. After a few heavy brake applications the pedal is firm again and all corners are modulated by the abs. The LF-RR rotors are hotter by about 50 degrees after heavy braking, so there's gotta be air in the system yet.
What am I missing? I thought I knew how to bleed brakes, but I must be doing something wrong.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 16,028
Likes: 170
From: oregon
if air is introduced into the system you have to get it out of the abs. if you have a tech 2 you can cycle and bleed, if you don't you sometimes can do it by bleeding, going for a drive, pounding the brakes into abs, going back home, rebleeding and repeat till you're good.
50deg is not a really large temp diff by the way. i'm guessing you ran the brakes to 500-600deg?
you can also try driving if it's close, go 1k miles and retest, see if the air has worked its way out of the abs and either into the lines or master. in other words, drive and rebleed after a month of driving
50deg is not a really large temp diff by the way. i'm guessing you ran the brakes to 500-600deg?
you can also try driving if it's close, go 1k miles and retest, see if the air has worked its way out of the abs and either into the lines or master. in other words, drive and rebleed after a month of driving
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 56
Likes: 2
ABS, traction control
I managed to let air into the RF-LR ('01 vert) brake circuit when changing the fluid and the reservoir ran too low.
I flushed 1/2 gallon of fluid through the system with the Motive bleeder and did the abs bleed with tech 2. But the pedal was spongy at a cold start and the brakes were pulling. I bled the brakes again, and the same story. After a few heavy brake applications the pedal is firm again and all corners are modulated by the abs. The LF-RR rotors are hotter by about 50 degrees after heavy braking, so there's gotta be air in the system yet.
What am I missing? I thought I knew how to bleed brakes, but I must be doing something wrong.
I flushed 1/2 gallon of fluid through the system with the Motive bleeder and did the abs bleed with tech 2. But the pedal was spongy at a cold start and the brakes were pulling. I bled the brakes again, and the same story. After a few heavy brake applications the pedal is firm again and all corners are modulated by the abs. The LF-RR rotors are hotter by about 50 degrees after heavy braking, so there's gotta be air in the system yet.
What am I missing? I thought I knew how to bleed brakes, but I must be doing something wrong.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 332
Likes: 22
From: Georgia
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 136
Likes: 6
From: Lees Summit Missouri
if air is introduced into the system you have to get it out of the abs. if you have a tech 2 you can cycle and bleed, if you don't you sometimes can do it by bleeding, going for a drive, pounding the brakes into abs, going back home, rebleeding and repeat till you're good.
50deg is not a really large temp diff by the way. i'm guessing you ran the brakes to 500-600deg?
you can also try driving if it's close, go 1k miles and retest, see if the air has worked its way out of the abs and either into the lines or master. in other words, drive and rebleed after a month of driving
50deg is not a really large temp diff by the way. i'm guessing you ran the brakes to 500-600deg?
you can also try driving if it's close, go 1k miles and retest, see if the air has worked its way out of the abs and either into the lines or master. in other words, drive and rebleed after a month of driving
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Race Director
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 16,028
Likes: 170
From: oregon
it's basically the same thing only the tech 2 is much more efficient. so many things can cause a 50deg variance you may be completely fine. just the shape of the road can do it when more weight is on a tire than another. also i hope you're talking 50deg left to right front to front, rear to rear. if you're comparing front to rear the numbers are meaningless
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 349
Likes: 7
From: San Diego CA
Another tech 2 bleed and a huge air bubble out of the LR caliper. Now left to right brake temps are even and the brake balance is good. It just seems to take a few bleeds to get all the air out after farking it up.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 16,028
Likes: 170
From: oregon
it certainly can, i've experienced similar with, multiple rebleeds, driving awhile then rebleeding. doing what you did. really isn't fun
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 16,028
Likes: 170
From: oregon
it cycles the abs similar to what happens when you pound the brakes. if air is in the system it often hangs up in the abs and you either have to tech 2 bleed or bleed, drive, bleed, drive repeat until the air is gone. by drive i mean pound the brakes so the abs lights up