Hi,
I searched for any info on this but did not find this exact issue. When my headlight retracts it overdrives the gear and jams it so that the next time I turn on my headlights one stays down. All I have to do to fix it is turn the manual until it starts to raise and all is well for a few more times up and down, then it jams and I have to start all over again. Does anyone have any info on this or what is supposed to shut the motor off before it drives it down so far? I don't see any stops on it so I guess it is some sort of electrical switch that shuts it off when it is in the proper position. Any advice on this would be much appreciated.

 

The motors are stopped on increased torque (measured as current) caused when the light hits the upper or lower stops. There are 4 little rubber bumpers the control where the light bucket stops. Sounds like you are missing one or two of the rubber numbers on the "down" side. I've recently purchased them through Ecklers at $3 or $4 each and replaced them while I was doing the brass gear fix. Very simple to do.

Part No. 57028 at Ecklers - $2.99 each. You will need 4 per headlight to replace all of them.

 

Below is from a post a few years ago (and both sides continue to work as they should). Since the initial repair, I eventually did the tab repair as stated below to the other side, but did not need to replace the gear to that side. I am convinced that the motor / gearbox loosness is what was causing the jamming, and would eventually cause the stripping of gears:

Just going through this & I think I can see where the real problem lies (in my case):

The motor on the later C5's (I don't know about the earlier version) is held to a plastic gear box via 4 metal tabs. My driver's side headlight began to "stick" and would not raise electrically. If I turned the manual **** one turn (to loosen it), it then would electrically raise when the switch was turned on. At the urging of a fellow forum member, I got the brass gear kit, and took it apart today. Low and behold, the instructions state also to tighten up the tabs that retain the motor to the plastic gear box. My gear definately was jamming when it came to a stop, and I can see from the loose motor / gear box fit that the gears were barely making contact (the motor worm gear would move away from the plastic gear due to the force of stopping and had minimal gear tooth engagement). This loosness (of the motor / gear box) is probably the real cause of the plastic gear stripping that most owners see.

In my case (besides replacing the gear with the brass gear), I tightened the 4 tabs, but also added a high strength epoxy to the motor / gear box tabs & interface area (& will paint it semi-gloss black to hide the epoxy).

My passenger side headlight is working fine (for now), but I tested it for the motor / gear box looseness (manual **** must be turned a turn or so to relieve the pressure off the gears), and see it is loose as well. I will just tighten up those motor tabs, and then epoxy that side also.

Hope this helps,
Plasticman