IYO, which is the better pad for low dust, long life, rotor "friendliness", and cost. I'm stuck between the Raybestos QS and the GM Ceramics. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

:cheers:

 

From what I have heard you will have less stopping power with less dust. So if you don't track the car or do those 3 digit runs on the highway you should be fine. I have never used either pad. Have heard some good things about the GM ceramic pads.

 

Raybestos QS pads are 99% dust free, quiet and rotor friendly. I only run them on the street though and when I am going to do a roadrace lapping event I whip out hte PFC 01s and 99s..

The Raybestos stopping power is the same or slightly less than stock in my opinion. They work better the older they get as well. I used to have a problem with warpring rotors every 5,000 miles or so but since i started running these on the street I havent warped them even once.

 

5 months ago and 6000 miles I changed to the GM ceramics.
They generate very little dust. :cheers:
I have not noticed any difference in braking, but I am not into hard braking.
I also put GM drilled/slotted rotors on when I changed the pads.
The pads appear to be very friendly to the rotors.
The ceramics are also quiet, during light and heavy braking.



[Modified by 01Pewter, 10:34 AM 8/16/2002]

 

I have been running the GM ceramics with Eradispeed + rotors for a couple of months now. Pads are as close to dustless as you will get. What dust there is shows very little since it is a very light color. The stopping power appears to be the same as stock for daily driving.

 

Looks like the GM ceramics are favored. Where is the best place to get em?

 

Brake Pads Replacement - Front

Removal Procedure

Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.
If the brake fluid level is midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, no brake fluid needs to be removed from the reservoir before proceeding.
If the brake fluid level is higher than midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, remove brake fluid to the midway point before proceeding.

Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Hand tighten a wheel lug nut to a wheel stud to secure the rotor to the hub.

Install large C-clamp (2) over the body of the brake caliper (1) with the C-clamp ends against the rear of the caliper body and against the outboard brake pad.
Tighten the C-clamp (2) evenly until the caliper pistons are compressed into the caliper bores enough to allow the caliper to slide past the brake rotor.
Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.




Remove the upper brake caliper guide pin bolt. 15 and 18mm wrenches needed






Pivot the brake caliper body downward and secure the caliper out of the way with heavy mechanic's wire or equivalent; ensure that there is no tension on the hydraulic brake flexible hose. Do NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper.




Remove the brake pads from the caliper bracket.
Remove and inspect the brake pad retainers from the caliper bracket.


Installation Procedure
Inspect the caliper slide boots for cuts, tears, or deterioration. If damaged, replace the slides and the boots. Refer to Disc Brake Hardware Replacement - Front .

Install large C-clamp (1) over the body of the brake caliper (3) with the C-clamp ends against the rear of the caliper body and against an old inboard brake pad (2) or a wood block installed against the caliper pistons.
Tighten the C-clamp (1) evenly until the caliper pistons are compressed completely into the caliper bores.
Remove the C-clamp and the old brake pad or wood block from the caliper.

Install the brake pad retainers to the caliper bracket.
Install the brake pads to the caliper bracket. The brake pad wear sensor, mounted on the inboard brake pad, must be positioned so that it is in the trailing position during forward rotation of the brake rotor.
Pivot the brake caliper upward, over the brake pads and into the caliper bracket.

Install the upper brake caliper guide pin bolt. Tighten
Tighten the brake caliper guide pin bolt to 31 N·m (23 lb ft).

Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.

Lower the vehicle.

With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of its travel distance.

Slowly release the brake pedal.

Wait 15 seconds, then repeat these steps until a firm brake pedal apply is obtained; this will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.

Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the proper level. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling in Hydraulic Brakes.

 

Great pictures and description.. A couple of things to consider.. GM recommends the replacement of the bolts every time you do this proceedure. I bought a bunch of them from Flow Chevrolet. The new ones are in air tight bags with red loctite already on the threads. Which brings up a second point. I was using blue loctite before I started buying new bolts. Do you think loctite is needed? Finally I think you might want to put a small amount of silicone grease on the slides.

 

gmblack3......I think you should post this in the How-To section. Add the bit about locktyte on the bolts or replacing them. I just changed my pads for the first time and your pictures would have been helpfull. Good job!

 

If you don't have a large c clamp just use an old pad and large channellocks

 

I agree, get this in to the how to section.

Nice write up.