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FAST 92mm intake repair

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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 03:05 PM
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Default FAST 92mm intake repair

I just picked up a FAST 92mm intake with a couple of hair line cracks on the bottom of the intake next to the 2 support screws.

Does anyone know how or where I can get this fixed ?
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 04:56 PM
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JB weld is supposed to work. Sounds like yours isn't too bad. I trashed mine, and had to replace the bottom piece.
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by zeevette
JB weld is supposed to work. Sounds like yours isn't too bad. I trashed mine, and had to replace the bottom piece.
And what's the cost of a FAST intake base ??
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 01:05 AM
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No one else ????

No of the speed shop sponsors have a repair comments / direction ???
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Sinister-one
No one else ????

No of the speed shop sponsors have a repair comments / direction ???
For relatively minor repairs I would go the JB Weld route as well. You can also go straight to the horse's mouth and get info about separate manifold pieces. F.A.S.T. is part of the Comp Performance Group.


http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/contacts/
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
For relatively minor repairs I would go the JB Weld route as well. You can also go straight to the horse's mouth and get info about separate manifold pieces. F.A.S.T. is part of the Comp Performance Group.


http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/contacts/
So..... would you recommend I melt down ( with a soldering iron ) the cracks and then apply the JB Weld ??
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 11:12 AM
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Mine was broken through in 3 places, so I bought a new bottom. I think it was $300, which really pissed me off, since I'd bought the manifold used, and ported, for not much more. Of course, no valley cover bolts, no instructions, and no knowledge of needing same. I don't think it'd be a good idea to melt the plastic.
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by zeevette
Mine was broken through in 3 places, so I bought a new bottom. I think it was $300, which really pissed me off, since I'd bought the manifold used, and ported, for not much more. Of course, no valley cover bolts, no instructions, and no knowledge of needing same. I don't think it'd be a good idea to melt the plastic.
With the bottom of the intake being smooth.... how would you get the JB Weld to stick ??

Rough it up with some sand paper to give it something to bite on to ?
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 12:37 PM
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Maybe do a search for plastic repair materials. Of course, who knows what the actual plastic material really is.
For the JB weld, yes. Rough the area up really good with sand paper. Way out from the cracks and cover more than you think you need to. Loctite lock weld works good too.

Anyone know what is causing these cracks? How visible are they? Sometimes I wonder if my 102 intake has a mysterious crack as it won't tune worth a crap in SD mode, but runs fine in MAF mode. I've had it off several times but can't find any cracks.

Ron
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Sinister-one
So..... would you recommend I melt down ( with a soldering iron ) the cracks and then apply the JB Weld ??
If they are as minor as you indicated, I would sand then clean thoroughly with either brake cleaner or maybe a little acetone if you have some. Test the acetone first to make sure it won't start trying to soften or dissolve the plastic. After you sand, it prolly wouldn't hurt to take a Dremel wheel and make a groove to make the crack a little deeper so the epoxy can get down inside better OR if you can "flex" the plastic to open up the crack a bit to get it down inside.

JB is some good stuff.
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
If they are as minor as you indicated, I would sand then clean thoroughly with either brake cleaner or maybe a little acetone if you have some. Test the acetone first to make sure it won't start trying to soften or dissolve the plastic. After you sand, it prolly wouldn't hurt to take a Dremel wheel and make a groove to make the crack a little deeper so the epoxy can get down inside better OR if you can "flex" the plastic to open up the crack a bit to get it down inside.

JB is some good stuff.
I will surely give it a try when the intake arrives !

Time to start looking for some fuel rails.... OR.... possibly re-use the stock LS2 fuel rail.....
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 08:52 PM
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use devcon flow mix plastic welder 2 part epoxy. enough said. sand the crack, maybe even takea very small drill bit (smaller than 1/16") and drill the ends of the cracks to keep it from continuing to crack. sand the crack, clean with alchohol and apply the epoxy.
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Old Jun 12, 2015 | 05:06 PM
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Well hell...... sent the intake off to a speed shop for repair and got the word that they would not feel safe with repairing it.

DAMIT !!!!!
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Old Jun 12, 2015 | 05:50 PM
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It's pretty easy to disassemble the Wilson mani. Just take it apart, and fix, or replace the bottom. If the cracks are minor, it'll be really easy to work on when it's apart.
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Old Jun 13, 2015 | 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by zeevette
It's pretty easy to disassemble the Wilson mani. Just take it apart, and fix, or replace the bottom. If the cracks are minor, it'll be really easy to work on when it's apart.
A new manifold base will cost me almost $300 bucks...... that plus what I paid for it, I may as well have purchased a new one... pretty much....
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Old Jun 13, 2015 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Sinister-one
A new manifold base will cost me almost $300 bucks...... that plus what I paid for it, I may as well have purchased a new one... pretty much....
Yeah, I know it sucks. I had to pony up the $300 to fix a problem caused by my own ignorance, but I was happy with the result.
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 10:58 AM
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Got a partial refund from the seller.... We're splitting the cost of a new base for the intake.
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Sinister-one
Got a partial refund from the seller.... We're splitting the cost of a new base for the intake.
Score! Just make sure you have the proper valley cover bolts.
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova

Anyone know what is causing these cracks?
leaving stock valley cover bolts causes them to crack when tighten down to much, suppose to swap the valley cover bolts to button head bolts

when i installed my fast92 I was on a deadline for a dyno, I didnt have the button heads bolts and installed it any ways (not feeling good about it) i missed my deadline so i pulled it off to swap the valley bolts out glad i did the under side of it had marks from there the stock valley bolts made contact i'm sure if I left it, it would of cracked!
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Stroker87
leaving stock valley cover bolts causes them to crack when tighten down to much, suppose to swap the valley cover bolts to button head bolts

when i installed my fast92 I was on a deadline for a dyno, I didnt have the button heads bolts and installed it any ways (not feeling good about it) i missed my deadline so i pulled it off to swap the valley bolts out glad i did the under side of it had marks from there the stock valley bolts made contact i'm sure if I left it, it would of cracked!
I will make sure to swap those out as well !!
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