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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Sinister-one
No one else ????
No of the speed shop sponsors have a repair comments / direction ???
For relatively minor repairs I would go the JB Weld route as well. You can also go straight to the horse's mouth and get info about separate manifold pieces. F.A.S.T. is part of the Comp Performance Group.
For relatively minor repairs I would go the JB Weld route as well. You can also go straight to the horse's mouth and get info about separate manifold pieces. F.A.S.T. is part of the Comp Performance Group.
Mine was broken through in 3 places, so I bought a new bottom. I think it was $300, which really pissed me off, since I'd bought the manifold used, and ported, for not much more. Of course, no valley cover bolts, no instructions, and no knowledge of needing same. I don't think it'd be a good idea to melt the plastic.
Mine was broken through in 3 places, so I bought a new bottom. I think it was $300, which really pissed me off, since I'd bought the manifold used, and ported, for not much more. Of course, no valley cover bolts, no instructions, and no knowledge of needing same. I don't think it'd be a good idea to melt the plastic.
With the bottom of the intake being smooth.... how would you get the JB Weld to stick ??
Rough it up with some sand paper to give it something to bite on to ?
Maybe do a search for plastic repair materials. Of course, who knows what the actual plastic material really is.
For the JB weld, yes. Rough the area up really good with sand paper. Way out from the cracks and cover more than you think you need to. Loctite lock weld works good too.
Anyone know what is causing these cracks? How visible are they? Sometimes I wonder if my 102 intake has a mysterious crack as it won't tune worth a crap in SD mode, but runs fine in MAF mode. I've had it off several times but can't find any cracks.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Sinister-one
So..... would you recommend I melt down ( with a soldering iron ) the cracks and then apply the JB Weld ??
If they are as minor as you indicated, I would sand then clean thoroughly with either brake cleaner or maybe a little acetone if you have some. Test the acetone first to make sure it won't start trying to soften or dissolve the plastic. After you sand, it prolly wouldn't hurt to take a Dremel wheel and make a groove to make the crack a little deeper so the epoxy can get down inside better OR if you can "flex" the plastic to open up the crack a bit to get it down inside.
If they are as minor as you indicated, I would sand then clean thoroughly with either brake cleaner or maybe a little acetone if you have some. Test the acetone first to make sure it won't start trying to soften or dissolve the plastic. After you sand, it prolly wouldn't hurt to take a Dremel wheel and make a groove to make the crack a little deeper so the epoxy can get down inside better OR if you can "flex" the plastic to open up the crack a bit to get it down inside.
JB is some good stuff.
I will surely give it a try when the intake arrives !
Time to start looking for some fuel rails.... OR.... possibly re-use the stock LS2 fuel rail.....
use devcon flow mix plastic welder 2 part epoxy. enough said. sand the crack, maybe even takea very small drill bit (smaller than 1/16") and drill the ends of the cracks to keep it from continuing to crack. sand the crack, clean with alchohol and apply the epoxy.
It's pretty easy to disassemble the Wilson mani. Just take it apart, and fix, or replace the bottom. If the cracks are minor, it'll be really easy to work on when it's apart.
It's pretty easy to disassemble the Wilson mani. Just take it apart, and fix, or replace the bottom. If the cracks are minor, it'll be really easy to work on when it's apart.
A new manifold base will cost me almost $300 bucks...... that plus what I paid for it, I may as well have purchased a new one... pretty much....
leaving stock valley cover bolts causes them to crack when tighten down to much, suppose to swap the valley cover bolts to button head bolts
when i installed my fast92 I was on a deadline for a dyno, I didnt have the button heads bolts and installed it any ways (not feeling good about it) i missed my deadline so i pulled it off to swap the valley bolts out glad i did the under side of it had marks from there the stock valley bolts made contact i'm sure if I left it, it would of cracked!
leaving stock valley cover bolts causes them to crack when tighten down to much, suppose to swap the valley cover bolts to button head bolts
when i installed my fast92 I was on a deadline for a dyno, I didnt have the button heads bolts and installed it any ways (not feeling good about it) i missed my deadline so i pulled it off to swap the valley bolts out glad i did the under side of it had marks from there the stock valley bolts made contact i'm sure if I left it, it would of cracked!