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I have ACA projectors in my '04 coupe, with 5000k HID bulbs. Currently using Corvette Mods 35w ballasts and a Morimoto harness connected directly to the fuse block battery connection. Prior to this harness I had a previous version that was I think a Corvette Mods one or similar. I was also using an inline gold metal resistor along with the previous harness. I disconnected the inline resistor when I installed the new Morimoto harness.
No matter what I do with the setup here, the headlight buckets will randomly go up with the first click of the stalk for parking lights only. Pretty much every time with current setup of Morimoto harness and NO inline resistor. I thought the harness was intended to replace the resistor? It was a bit more inconsistent when I had the old harness AND resistor. The old harness had ratty wiring and frayed in one area, hence why I replaced it.
Just tired of dealing with the front end lighting and wondering if 55w ballasts will cure the bucket issue AND allow me to get rid of the resistor onc and for all? Thoughts?
I installed Radioflyers ACA HID kit about 2 years ago. The set up uses 55w HID bulbs with 70w ballasts. No harness, no resistors. Have not had any headlight operation issues since installed.
If you have a relay harness then the ballasts are not connected to the original wiring so the wattage of the ballasts would have no effect on the door operation.
If you have a relay harness then the ballasts are not connected to the original wiring so the wattage of the ballasts would have no effect on the door operation.
Right...it goes harness from battery to the 35w ballast to the bulb. So wouldn't the signal be flowing through the lower watt ballast and causing an issue with the buckets not reading the same power as when everything was OEM?
You're not getting it. The relays in the harness connect to the original car wiring and the contacts in the relays power the ballasts directly from the battery. So changing the ballasts won't change the load on the original wiring.
If you have a relay harness then the ballasts are not connected to the original wiring so the wattage of the ballasts would have no effect on the door operation.
This. The Morimoto harness is really nice, I am using it on my car as well, along with Morimoto 35W ballasts. No issues related to the harness or ballasts.
If you slowly and gently move the switch on the stalk from the off position to the parking light position, does that eliminate the problem? If so, it may be the stalk. My stalk did this for a while after I rebuilt it; I think I went a little overboard on the tension on the contacts. If you flick it from off to park quickly, the headlight switch contact can momentarily make a connection which will cause the buckets to pop up.
This. The Morimoto harness is really nice, I am using it on my car as well, along with Morimoto 35W ballasts. No issues related to the harness or ballasts.
If you slowly and gently move the switch on the stalk from the off position to the parking light position, does that eliminate the problem? If so, it may be the stalk. My stalk did this for a while after I rebuilt it; I think I went a little overboard on the tension on the contacts. If you flick it from off to park quickly, the headlight switch contact can momentarily make a connection which will cause the buckets to pop up.
I'll test your theory on the stalk, but I'm not overboard when I engage the parking lights.
Maybe I will try to put the resistor back in, but I don't like having it. So many others don't have these issues and I don't understand why mine does.
In our experience, 35w ballasts won't trigger the headlights to close (and sometimes not to open either) Relay harnesses and headlight resistors are a work-around to a very simple solution.
Since we started using TRUE 55w ballasts (most "55w" ballasts can draw as little as 42w stable)
The factory 9006 bulb (low beam) draws 4.3a
Our current ballasts are rated at 4.2 amps @ 13.2v. When the car shuts off, the car's battery should be at 12.5v which means the ballast is still drawing 52.5w which is enough when shut off to trigger the buckets to lower.
In our experience, 35w ballasts won't trigger the headlights to close (and sometimes not to open either) Relay harnesses and headlight resistors are a work-around to a very simple solution.
Since we started using TRUE 55w ballasts (most "55w" ballasts can draw as little as 42w stable)
The factory 9006 bulb (low beam) draws 4.3a
Our current ballasts are rated at 4.2 amps @ 13.2v. When the car shuts off, the car's battery should be at 12.5v which means the ballast is still drawing 52.5w which is enough when shut off to trigger the buckets to lower.
Thanks for the input. With that being said, I see usng the resistor won't matter in my case since I don't have issues with the buckets NOT opening and closing when they need to. Just opening when I only want the parking lights on. Headlamps stay unlit, but the bucket it going up. I have to turn it all back off, then back on and it works properly on my second try. Never mentioned this before, but battery is brand new as well, in case that comes up as a question later.
Thanks for the input. With that being said, I see usng the resistor won't matter in my case since I don't have issues with the buckets NOT opening and closing when they need to. Just opening when I only want the parking lights on. Headlamps stay unlit, but the bucket it going up. I have to turn it all back off, then back on and it works properly on my second try. Never mentioned this before, but battery is brand new as well, in case that comes up as a question later.
when you turn on the parking lights, the headlights go up but stay off? If that's the case, I think the contacts in your multi-function switch may be going bad.
when you turn on the parking lights, the headlights go up but stay off? If that's the case, I think the contacts in your multi-function switch may be going bad.
Yes, I engage parking lights and the buckets go up, but no lights. I can then rotate the switch to headlights and the bulbs will turn on. Or I can rotate the switch back off and the buckets drop. Try a second time for just parking lights and all works as normal.
I'll do some searches on the contacts to see what I can do to address that, unless you have some suggestions?
Yes, I engage parking lights and the buckets go up, but no lights. I can then rotate the switch to headlights and the bulbs will turn on. Or I can rotate the switch back off and the buckets drop. Try a second time for just parking lights and all works as normal.
I'll do some searches on the contacts to see what I can do to address that, unless you have some suggestions?
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