Automatic shutters when cruising at idle
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 75
Likes: 1
From: Fort Hood Texas
Going Forward
As of now, i feel like the misfire is due to the plugs being fouled, and the shuttering is due to the tune. I think the oil on the plug threads is just from the leaking seals on the front of the motor, and possibly the valve cover seal. The plugs could be fouled due to the need for a catch can. Hopefully I am right. I will continue to update my journal lol.
1. Replace plugs and wires as soon as they get here.
2. Install a Catch Can. (ANY RECOMMENDATIONS?)
3. Get Tuner to adjust the shifting points, and/or Torque converter settings.
4. Eventually get seals fixed (quote was $700 is this about right?)
Questions
1. Anyone use cleaner like Seafoam?
2. Anyone ever clean their injectors, not just adding stuff to gas?
3. If car still misfires after changing plugs and wires, where should I take my search? Compression test, leak down test?
I uploaded an exhaust video for your viewing pleasure. This was before the misfire became annoying.
1. Replace plugs and wires as soon as they get here.
2. Install a Catch Can. (ANY RECOMMENDATIONS?)
3. Get Tuner to adjust the shifting points, and/or Torque converter settings.
4. Eventually get seals fixed (quote was $700 is this about right?)
Questions
1. Anyone use cleaner like Seafoam?
2. Anyone ever clean their injectors, not just adding stuff to gas?
3. If car still misfires after changing plugs and wires, where should I take my search? Compression test, leak down test?
I uploaded an exhaust video for your viewing pleasure. This was before the misfire became annoying.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 75
Likes: 1
From: Fort Hood Texas
I cleaned the plugs, and reinstalled them until the new ones come in. The car ran better, but the plugs are still fouled, so it still had a slight miss. The plugs came in today, but i am still waiting on the wires. I have decided that if the plug and wires don't fix the miss, I am going to take it in for a compression check and a leak down test. I have decided to try to replace the timing cover, water pump gaskets, a valve cover seal myself. Any advice with this? Has anyone else performed this task?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,375
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From: CA.
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
One more thing I forgot to mention where a MISFIRE can be related to a shutter
If the ECM detects a misfire whether real or false---It will automatically UNLOCK the TQ converter----If the ECM detects the misfire has stopped-it will LOCK the converter again
This will account for constant locking/unlocking of the converter and would seem like a shutter
The brake light switch circuit has a similar affect-- it will UNLOCK the converter if the ECM senses a failure in either the bulbs/switch/ wiring OR if the brake pedal is pushed
If the ECM detects a misfire whether real or false---It will automatically UNLOCK the TQ converter----If the ECM detects the misfire has stopped-it will LOCK the converter again
This will account for constant locking/unlocking of the converter and would seem like a shutter
The brake light switch circuit has a similar affect-- it will UNLOCK the converter if the ECM senses a failure in either the bulbs/switch/ wiring OR if the brake pedal is pushed
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 75
Likes: 1
From: Fort Hood Texas
One more thing I forgot to mention where a MISFIRE can be related to a shutter
If the ECM detects a misfire whether real or false---It will automatically UNLOCK the TQ converter----If the ECM detects the misfire has stopped-it will LOCK the converter again
This will account for constant locking/unlocking of the converter and would seem like a shutter
The brake light switch circuit has a similar affect-- it will UNLOCK the converter if the ECM senses a failure in either the bulbs/switch/ wiring OR if the brake pedal is pushed
If the ECM detects a misfire whether real or false---It will automatically UNLOCK the TQ converter----If the ECM detects the misfire has stopped-it will LOCK the converter again
This will account for constant locking/unlocking of the converter and would seem like a shutter
The brake light switch circuit has a similar affect-- it will UNLOCK the converter if the ECM senses a failure in either the bulbs/switch/ wiring OR if the brake pedal is pushed
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 75
Likes: 1
From: Fort Hood Texas
Sounds under the hood
I will post a video of the sounds i am talking about when i get a chance.
1. Ticking under the hood. After i changed the oil to MB1 as per owners manual. I noticed that the engine made more noise, but nothing concerning. I have since went over a pop up gate at fort hood, that definitely rubbed the bottom of the car, and the headers are the lowest point. Since then a definite ticking sound has been coming from the engine. Sounds like a lifter ticking, but it is louder than i am used to. I also notice a rattling coming from the passenger side exhaust. I assume these are from the header hitting, and now i have a exhaust leak, but it could just be coincidence. I plan to get it checked out when i get a chance, but would an exhaust leak sound like a loud ticking lifter?
2. I have developed a whistling noise that goes away after the car warms up. It gets louder when the AC is on. I assume that this is just fluid getting on the belt from the bad timing cover or water pump gaskets that i will be replacing soon. Thoughts?
These may be off topic, but since this is now my journal i figured i should keep the readers interested lol
1. Ticking under the hood. After i changed the oil to MB1 as per owners manual. I noticed that the engine made more noise, but nothing concerning. I have since went over a pop up gate at fort hood, that definitely rubbed the bottom of the car, and the headers are the lowest point. Since then a definite ticking sound has been coming from the engine. Sounds like a lifter ticking, but it is louder than i am used to. I also notice a rattling coming from the passenger side exhaust. I assume these are from the header hitting, and now i have a exhaust leak, but it could just be coincidence. I plan to get it checked out when i get a chance, but would an exhaust leak sound like a loud ticking lifter?
2. I have developed a whistling noise that goes away after the car warms up. It gets louder when the AC is on. I assume that this is just fluid getting on the belt from the bad timing cover or water pump gaskets that i will be replacing soon. Thoughts?
These may be off topic, but since this is now my journal i figured i should keep the readers interested lol
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 8,629
Likes: 16
From: York PA
I will post a video of the sounds i am talking about when i get a chance.
1. Ticking under the hood. After i changed the oil to MB1 as per owners manual. I noticed that the engine made more noise, but nothing concerning. I have since went over a pop up gate at fort hood, that definitely rubbed the bottom of the car, and the headers are the lowest point. Since then a definite ticking sound has been coming from the engine. Sounds like a lifter ticking, but it is louder than i am used to. I also notice a rattling coming from the passenger side exhaust. I assume these are from the header hitting, and now i have a exhaust leak, but it could just be coincidence. I plan to get it checked out when i get a chance, but would an exhaust leak sound like a loud ticking lifter?
2. I have developed a whistling noise that goes away after the car warms up. It gets louder when the AC is on. I assume that this is just fluid getting on the belt from the bad timing cover or water pump gaskets that i will be replacing soon. Thoughts?
These may be off topic, but since this is now my journal i figured i should keep the readers interested lol
1. Ticking under the hood. After i changed the oil to MB1 as per owners manual. I noticed that the engine made more noise, but nothing concerning. I have since went over a pop up gate at fort hood, that definitely rubbed the bottom of the car, and the headers are the lowest point. Since then a definite ticking sound has been coming from the engine. Sounds like a lifter ticking, but it is louder than i am used to. I also notice a rattling coming from the passenger side exhaust. I assume these are from the header hitting, and now i have a exhaust leak, but it could just be coincidence. I plan to get it checked out when i get a chance, but would an exhaust leak sound like a loud ticking lifter?
2. I have developed a whistling noise that goes away after the car warms up. It gets louder when the AC is on. I assume that this is just fluid getting on the belt from the bad timing cover or water pump gaskets that i will be replacing soon. Thoughts?
These may be off topic, but since this is now my journal i figured i should keep the readers interested lol
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 75
Likes: 1
From: Fort Hood Texas
Here are clips of the engine noise, and one of the exhaust then walk around to the engine. The engine noise video has the clicking or tapping noise I was asking about. So please listen to that one. The other video is just of the exhaust, then walk around to engine bay. In that video the AC is on, and the compressor or belt is making a noise that I am wondering if it is a vacuum leak, a bad compressor or belt, or just a dirty belt from the leaking seals. Please watch the videos and give me any feedback you have. thanks
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 75
Likes: 1
From: Fort Hood Texas
I replaced the plugs, and wires yesterday. She ran a lot better, and it felt like it was running on all cylinders again. The car still wants to stall when i go to pull out of a parking spot. I believe that goes away after the car warms up. So after everything I am back to the original problem the car had when I bought it. It also still stutters when i take my foot off the gas, most noticeable between 38-50 mph. The stuttering stops when i put any pressure on either pedal, or manual change the gear. I am not sure what direction to even go next.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 8,629
Likes: 16
From: York PA
I replaced the plugs, and wires yesterday. She ran a lot better, and it felt like it was running on all cylinders again. The car still wants to stall when i go to pull out of a parking spot. I believe that goes away after the car warms up. So after everything I am back to the original problem the car had when I bought it. It also still stutters when i take my foot off the gas, most noticeable between 38-50 mph. The stuttering stops when i put any pressure on either pedal, or manual change the gear. I am not sure what direction to even go next.