Mods to do when the engine is being rebuilt?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 336
Likes: 40
From: Longview WA
Mods to do when the engine is being rebuilt?
I read the other post by Tommy... Basically same issue I'm pretty sure.
The oil pressure started dropping more and more... Within a few minutes it was 0-5psi at idle.. I pulled over...
Car was super hot. Never like that usually. (perhaps it's just LA...)
****** week for sure. Flying back home... Car is going to a shop called corvette specialists in San Dimas... Giving them a call tomorrow to schedule the work needing to be done.
First, check the sensor, I really don't think this is at fault, but will be first thing.
If bad,replace. Check psi.
If good, pull apart engine.
Probably a bearing as posted in the other thread.. Unsure.
I'm looking to build a list of parts to get.
I currently have a ported ls6 oil pump from Texas speed.
Here are a few things so far?
Oil pump
Timing chain
Front crank pulley seal
Complete check of internals.. Replace as needed?
Replace clutch to something more street friendly (twin disc?)
Would it be cheaper for me to buy a new block? If I'm tearing into my car this far... What else should I do performance wise?
I have cam, forged pistons... Etc from lingenfelter.
Nothing but problems with my Vette..
oh well...
The oil pressure started dropping more and more... Within a few minutes it was 0-5psi at idle.. I pulled over...
Car was super hot. Never like that usually. (perhaps it's just LA...)
****** week for sure. Flying back home... Car is going to a shop called corvette specialists in San Dimas... Giving them a call tomorrow to schedule the work needing to be done.
First, check the sensor, I really don't think this is at fault, but will be first thing.
If bad,replace. Check psi.
If good, pull apart engine.
Probably a bearing as posted in the other thread.. Unsure.
I'm looking to build a list of parts to get.
I currently have a ported ls6 oil pump from Texas speed.
Here are a few things so far?
Oil pump
Timing chain
Front crank pulley seal
Complete check of internals.. Replace as needed?
Replace clutch to something more street friendly (twin disc?)
Would it be cheaper for me to buy a new block? If I'm tearing into my car this far... What else should I do performance wise?
I have cam, forged pistons... Etc from lingenfelter.
Nothing but problems with my Vette..
oh well...
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,904
Likes: 29
From: Vancouver Washington
I've been down a similar road to yours and right now it's impossible to tell what direction to go. Wait till you know the motor is bad and after the autopsy of the motor if it is bad. At that point you'll have a clear picture of what you need to get back on the road.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,375
Likes: 328
From: CA.
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
Depends on your year model of your car----What year is it ?
If it's a pre 2000 I would absolutely change the intake manifold to a newer LS6 style
You have a aftermarket cam so if you are tearing it down again I would add an underdrive balancer--- an easy 8-10 RWHP across the entire RPM range
Either shorty or LT headers 12 RWHP for shortys and up to 25 RWHP with LT's
Absolutely a re-tune with HP or EFILIVE
If it's a pre 2000 I would absolutely change the intake manifold to a newer LS6 style
You have a aftermarket cam so if you are tearing it down again I would add an underdrive balancer--- an easy 8-10 RWHP across the entire RPM range
Either shorty or LT headers 12 RWHP for shortys and up to 25 RWHP with LT's
Absolutely a re-tune with HP or EFILIVE
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 336
Likes: 40
From: Longview WA
I have a fast intake.
I am kind of lost, the mechanic took the car for a drive... he stated there is no issues he could see, perhaps low oil PSI though.
I don't know what the heck happened then.. why would my car start showing little to no oil psi? (low oil warning came on... watched the oil psi go to 0psi at 1k idle, and 5~10psi when revved up to 2 or 3k)
Should I drive it home and hope for the best? Obviously it will sieze if the pump goes, but I think there could be something else going on.. perhaps a rubber seal is pinched or something...
Not even sure if its worth tearing the engine down. :| go till it blows?
I am kind of lost, the mechanic took the car for a drive... he stated there is no issues he could see, perhaps low oil PSI though.
I don't know what the heck happened then.. why would my car start showing little to no oil psi? (low oil warning came on... watched the oil psi go to 0psi at 1k idle, and 5~10psi when revved up to 2 or 3k)
Should I drive it home and hope for the best? Obviously it will sieze if the pump goes, but I think there could be something else going on.. perhaps a rubber seal is pinched or something...
Not even sure if its worth tearing the engine down. :| go till it blows?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,375
Likes: 328
From: CA.
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
What brand oil filter are you using ????? and part # ? I would only use the correct A/C Delco filter OR Mobil One
I have seen cheap oil filters (Fram) plug up and flow horribly causing low oil pressure
I have seen cheap oil filters (Fram) plug up and flow horribly causing low oil pressure
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 336
Likes: 40
From: Longview WA
Currently running 10-30w Mobil1 with royal purple filter.
I've tried diff fluids and diff filters, no change.
Just curious, when buying a bottom end block, what else is needed on top?
http://aesracing.net/product_info_390LS1.htm
Ontop of that i need... heads, intake manifold/ fuel rails / water pump / oil pump etc?
I've tried diff fluids and diff filters, no change.
Just curious, when buying a bottom end block, what else is needed on top?
http://aesracing.net/product_info_390LS1.htm
Ontop of that i need... heads, intake manifold/ fuel rails / water pump / oil pump etc?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 5,245
Likes: 25
From: Blue Ridge Georgia
If the block or internal parts are bad I think that you would be better off in the long run to buy a built short or long block with a stroked crank and forged Pistons. You can buy that for the same price you will pay someone local to rebuild your motor. There are so many quality motor builders these days it's hard to turn down that over a local rebuild. And for the same money that stroker will make you happy every time you drive your car.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 336
Likes: 40
From: Longview WA
I think im gonna call up AES racing and see if they can suggest a good build from that block they have.
Maybe they can ship it to me basically ready to go?
Finding a good mechanic in the Bay area CA has been hard :[
Maybe they can ship it to me basically ready to go?
Finding a good mechanic in the Bay area CA has been hard :[
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Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,777
Likes: 450
From: EAST TENNESSEE
I have 1st hand experience with Fram filters,they do collapse.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 336
Likes: 40
From: Longview WA
Well.. I had another shop take a look at it..
They hooked up a mechanical gauge to check oil PSI.
Sitting about 17~ idle, warm, so about 3 or 4 more than what the sending unit shows.
Still concerned about the bearings being worn. :|
Got a quote from Texas speed for an engine.
They recommended a lq9 with prc247 heads, tsunami cam, wisco pistons.
I asked for 600 hp out of the crank.
In addition:
Fast 90MM intake
Dynatech long tube headers
High flow cats / x pipe / etc.
K&N filter (might change this)
I'm really wanting to get it all done right, the first time.
I was quoted 2k in labor for removal of current block, and install of new block.
Here are the other things I am considering while I am that deep.
1) Monster Clutch swap (currently have textralia)
2) Tunnel Plate from TPS
3)Poly Engine Mounts from Hinson (not solid mounts)
4)New Radiator hoses and such.
5)ATI Balancer with ARP bolt - ( really don't know much about this...)
6) DRM Steering Rack Bushing
....
Anything else special I should tally on?
Gonna just sell my current block.
They hooked up a mechanical gauge to check oil PSI.
Sitting about 17~ idle, warm, so about 3 or 4 more than what the sending unit shows.
Still concerned about the bearings being worn. :|
Got a quote from Texas speed for an engine.
They recommended a lq9 with prc247 heads, tsunami cam, wisco pistons.
I asked for 600 hp out of the crank.
In addition:
Fast 90MM intake
Dynatech long tube headers
High flow cats / x pipe / etc.
K&N filter (might change this)
I'm really wanting to get it all done right, the first time.
I was quoted 2k in labor for removal of current block, and install of new block.
Here are the other things I am considering while I am that deep.
1) Monster Clutch swap (currently have textralia)
2) Tunnel Plate from TPS
3)Poly Engine Mounts from Hinson (not solid mounts)
4)New Radiator hoses and such.
5)ATI Balancer with ARP bolt - ( really don't know much about this...)
6) DRM Steering Rack Bushing
....
Anything else special I should tally on?
Gonna just sell my current block.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,036
Likes: 9,798
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Bill
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 336
Likes: 40
From: Longview WA
They just believe there could be other issues about to start rearing their ugly heads.