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So my son has just moved back to Chicago from Dallas. On the drive up he said the car indicated a low voltage warning and then died shortly (5-10 minutes) thereafter, luckily in a Walmart parking lot in St. Louis. Put in a new battery, made it the rest of the way.
Seems to me that even with a low/dead battery, the car would continue to run as long as the alternator was working???
So yesterday I checked the system voltage, 13.32 w/car running, no accessories. 13.19 w/ A/C, lights, and radio on. I have always experienced 14+ so this seems low to me??? What is normal for these vehicles?
Also, has the following indicators :
Service ABS
Service Active Handling
Service Traction System
He says that these have been on for a few months, but the car was working OK, and he didn't have time to do anything about it. I checked fuses, all ok.
I'm a DIY guy but never owned a corvette and am not familiar with the electronics which may be unique to this vehicle. Any help would be appreciated.
I have a 2001. I would probably check the alternator if I were you. My car usually shows between 13.8 and 14 on the digital dash. I had a problem with my wife's Camaro a few years ago. It did not run very long with a bad alternator. But your son had no problems after the new battery. But I would check the alternator just to eliminate it as the problem. Hope this helps.
I have a 2001. I would probably check the alternator if I were you. My car usually shows between 13.8 and 14 on the digital dash. I had a problem with my wife's Camaro a few years ago. It did not run very long with a bad alternator. But your son had no problems after the new battery. But I would check the alternator just to eliminate it as the problem. Hope this helps.
The Outlaw
Yeah, I just checked the voltage on our other 3 vehicles: 13.9, 14.3, 14.4(w/ ac on).
Would low system voltage cause the other "Service" notifications?
You need to pull and post your codes to know what the ABS, Traction and Active Handling lights are all about. There are more than a dozen different codes that can cause those lights to illuminate. If you have never pulled codes on a C5 here is how to do it:
Include the H or C or HC that follow each 5 character code. List the codes under the sensor they are related to. ie 10 - PCM or 28 - TCS or 40 - BCM etc.....
OK, thanks. The car is at my son's house now...I will have him do it and report back.
You really need to check both places. There are connection points that may have corrosion or loose bolts between the alternator and the battery that can reduce the value seen at the battery. Specifically the bolt at the starter is between the alternator and the battery and it is not uncommon for that connection to get corrosion or the bolt to loosen.
Good point...I checked at the battery...probably going to be next weekend before I am able to check again, but I will check at the alternator.
You NEED to READ Chuck's Instructions CAREFULLY... Read them ALL ... If you do what he is telling you to do he will help you fix your issues... He is VERY good at what he does on this forum...
A C5 will do some strange things when the battery is low or weak. I have twice replaced the battery when these happened, and the strange things stopped.
My battery died last year and a few months after replacing it, my traction control lights came on and haven't turned off since. I also checked codes and found the 1214HC --- I checked all grounds, unplugged the EBCM module and made sure everything was clean and plugged back in right and it still wouldn't reset/clear.
It does not affect the driving but obviously ABS and Traction control won't work. I put new rear tires on which has helped with traction in general but I do plan on sending the module off to get fixed at some point over the winter.
Sounds like minimum $150 fix or $400 for a re-fubished unit (or $600 for a new unit). Oh well, the price we pay to ride in style
You originally posted that the voltage was at 13.32 measured at the battery with no accessories running. I suggested testing at the alternator since there are connections between the alternator and battery that could cause the voltage to be lower at the battery. (it should be higher than 13.3 with engine running measured at the battery)
If you can, recheck voltage at BOTH the alternator and battery and post results as well as the other items i suggested in post # 11.
Agreed. As soon as he brings the car over, that will be my first task. I suspect that a new alternator is required if the voltage is that low at the alternator?
Might be as simple as worn brushes but measure it first. Also need to get the proper Corvette alternator if you do replace it. Generic replacements can result in chronic charge system fault messages. If you have availability of a good rebuild shop for starters and alternators that is the road I would take if replacement is needed.
Is there a way to confirm whether or not the current alternator is the OEM or replacement?
OK, so I was able to work on the vette a little yesterday.
First had to reconnect the linkage for the DS headlamp that somehow had come undone, so it wasn't coming up...it was missing the nut. That took about 2 hours, so I ran out of time to do much more.
Cleared the codes; we'll see which ones come back on after he drives it a bit.
Did a few quick checks on the electrical issues
Voltage at the alternator=14.41
Voltage at the battery=13.65 w/o any accessories running
14.41 looks good to me, so it doesn't look like an alternator problem after all, correct? Should there be that much voltage loss from alternator output to battery?
I didn't get a chance to inspect/clean/tighten any of the connections, but I presume that would be my next move.
Also, a new problem. The parking brake does not work correctly. It goes up, down, the light comes on, etc...it just won't ratchet and stay engaged.
Last edited by Zonian60; Sep 4, 2015 at 09:40 AM.
Reason: added parking brake issue
Clearly no issue with the alternator if it has 14.4 at it. I would check the connections at the starter solenoid. Remember to disconnect the Neg battery cable first as the connection is always electrically HOT. Likely corrosion at the connection. Does the car have headers? If yes then check for fried wiring to/from the starter, a not uncommon issue with headered cars.
I'll leave the parking brake issue for someone with experience on that type of problem. I have yet to delve into my own PB issue of not enough holding power when fully engaged. I think mine is just an adjustment needed.