My 2000 c5 has 98 thousand miles on it. I decided to have the clutch replaced as preventive maintenance and the shop has had it for weeks unable to properly repair my vehicle. First, I was told that they received a defective part with a bad release bearing. Then, when they tried to install the second clutch, it still wasn't right. (Stick shift wouldn't go to neutal; no spring centering it, just a floppy stick)
I am now being told that the clutch listed for my car according to the VIN number does not fit. They claim the VIN number lists heavy duty clutch but it needs a regular duty clutch (something about the slave cylinder doesn't move parts far enough to disengage the flywheel?? Idk). Needless to say, I am beyond fed up with their excuses and waiting for my car to be properly repaired. Has anybody ever encountered parts listed according to the VIN number that don't actually fit the vehicle or am I being given the runaround? I feel like I've been as patient and understanding as possible but this whole repair has been a disaster. Have any of you experienced this nonsense? Please advise. Thanks.

 

sounds like a load of crap to me, I'm guessing this is not a performance shop or one accustomed to doing clutches on c5/c6 vettes?... the slave will be the same for a coupe, vert, or z06 as far as I know which should have no effect on it's ability to disengage the pressure plate from the disc... the flywheel, pressure plate, and disc might be different part numbers between different trim levels but they are all interchangeable and should work fine as long as everything is installed properly

 

They probably can't bleed the hydraulics properly and there is air in the system. That would be my guess as to what they are trying to tell you. Did you have them install a remote bleeder?

My first question to them is HOW DID YOU BLEED the CLUTCH system??? [ don't let them get away with "they know what they are doing and they did bleed it"]

I would guess you can't, but running not walking from this shop is probably the best solution. If they are replacing the clutch with a GM, then there is no "heavy duty" listed for the C5 in the OEM parts listing.

 

1st... always check in with the FORUM before you have anything done to your C5

2nd Why did you replace your clutch if it was working properly?

3rd It really sounds like the shop your C5 is at, has NO IDEA what they are doing and you NEED to take it somewhere that they DO know what they are doing and get the job done right, or it will NEVER be right.

4th Might want to see about getting a good lawyer for this deal...

Good luck and sorry this is happening to you

 

sounds like the bleed or they did not measure or shim the clutch correctly

c5 is one of the harder cars to do a clutch right simply because of all the things no one tells you

like

the balance issue

shimming if need be

why the sticky pedal is so common and how to fix it when you replace the clutch

the tech at that shop needs to talk with someone who knows the ins and outs for 10 minutes, your car will be fine.

and LOL at the braniac who said get a lawyer. how smart is that, spend $2k on a guy to argue a case you might not win....probably won't win would be a better way to say it.

 

LOL I didn't say get a lawyer, I said see about getting one... just in case... this incompetent shop decides he is on his own with this... he might be able to have an attorney just write a letter threatening to sue and have them do the right thing and fix it... hopefully they will anyway.

 

So what IS the proper way to bleed it?

 

Does the clutch have to be bled at the slave cylinder BEFORE the bell housing is put on? What is the proper method for this and other tips to avoid sticky pedal on a 2000 c5 coupe? Trying to make sure that repair shop properly installs my new clutch. (slave cylinder was replaced, had new clutch put in at same time and now the shop seems to be in over their head.)

 

They used a NAPA clutch kit, and no bleeder screw even though I asked about getting one. I'm pretty sure that they were in over their heads on this, but the slave cylinder was under warranty so I had them do the clutch at the same time to save some labor cost.

 

So, .... How DO you bleed it, etc.?
Please give me info so I can know what needs to be done and point these turds in the right direction as I tell them what they may not know. I'm a total newbie by the wsy, bit I guess you guys have figured that out. I know the ranger method for freshening up the clutch fluid, and that's it.

 

Thanks! it wouldn't be a stretch to think that their pride would prevent them from asking somebody how to do it so if you have any pointers on preventing the sticky pedal; the proper way to bleed the clutch; or any other tricks regarding shims, balancing, etc. ... please clue me in so that maybe I can point them in the right direction or at least discuss a few issues that they may need to consider. Thank you big time!

 

Every slave has a bleeder screw. It works like a brake bleeder doing the pedal pump, pedal hold and then bleeder opening and closing to release air and fluid. You bleed it once assembled before putting the tunnel plate and exhaust back on.

Here is info on the spacer shims, read the description and look at the second image.

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...nder-shim-180/

 

The centering spring, for the shifter, is in the transmission. They evidently have something assembled wrong not to mention the other issues.

 

The bleed screw (OEM) is about 2 inches long, threads into a boss on the flange of the slave. When installed it points UP vertically. If they put in a slave for, say a ls7 clutch or any later edition than a C5, then the bleeder exits at the 10 o'clock position. So, then the bleeder can be accessed on a C5 at the 12 o'clock position at the transition of the torque tube to bell housing. The exhaust from the manifolds to the cat-backs AND tunnel plate BOTH have to be OFF the car to reach the bleed screw, and there is about a 3/8 inch gap to snake your hand up there and get a wrench on the bleeder (unless, again, if they put the wrong slave in, which is an easy mistake to make).

That is why everyone that has ever done a clutch job recommends putting in a remote bleeder.

If you would post your home location and it is near one of the forum members maybe someone wouldn't mind looking over your situation.

Even though you probably want to shell the mechanic's building with mortars, you are at his mercy to some extent until you get your problem sorted out. That being said, I would save the father-son talk until you get your car out of there in one piece and working. There needs to be serious negotiations when it came time to write a check.

The photo below show a group of us dropping the drivetrain from a friend's C6Z. This was before the beer bell rang, so my garage is not so cluttered. Much more plumbing to clear on this car vs. a C5, but the point is, if your mechanic doesn't have a fixture like this to support the drivetrain/power train (I made this one, copying the fixture at the Corvette Assembly plant in BG) then they were the wrong guys.

We dropped the drive train, replaced the clutch and slave, ADDED a remote bleeder. The owner took the car to cali and back-no problems.

 

This is not going to end well if you continue down this road. Even if they manage to get the clutch in and bled properly there is a good chance it is not going to be balanced properly. I would do my best to get the car back (with as little out of pocket as possible) and take it to real shop.

Read as much as you can about the C5 clutches, so you can approach this a little more informed.

Good luck

 

So Brad, where are you at with your clutch and shop issues? I am very interested to hear how this is turning out for you.

Thanks,
Gutz

 

 

I argu ed w ith them about the bill as well as their incompetence and negligence. They continued to make excuses and apologies but in the end, I had to pay $500 just to get the car back. They had installed the shifter properly and it would pop out of first gear when I was trying to drive it home. they installed my factory shifter because they said my short shifter wasn't working right. (Worn out. ... but it wasn't) hey had absolutely no idea how to even install a shifter in a c5. the clutch fluid in my reservoir was still dirty even after they supposedly replaced the clutch and the slave cylinder. I paid for the clutch part which was $500. I installed the short shifter myself, and the car no longer pops out of first gear. I have no idea if they actually replace the slave cylinder or the clutch, but it cost me $500 to get the car back. The whole fiasco was an absolute disaster! Grrrrr!

 

What a nightmare... if he couldn't even install the shifter, I highly doubt he attempted to put in a clutch or slave... and if he had you probably wouldn't be driving it...
Hope your enjoying your car now

 

You did the right thing getting you car back. Cut you losses, and chalk it up to experience. No telling how much more damage they could have caused.