When I bought my 2001 C5 from the original owner the receipts for maintenance were handwritten and basically illegible. I don't know that I need a tune up but I'm getting close to 90,000 miles on the odometer and wondering what all I should get ready for expense wise on a tune up. Most of my life I did all of the work on my vehicles. I'm done with that and don't know anything about the modern vehicles I drive today, how long do plugs last? I don't even know how far things have evolved past old fashioned ignition points! You all have given me valuable information ever since I bought this C5 so thanks in advance for any information you give me on this.

 

The owner's manual says to replace the plugs at 100k miles.

And everyone recommends the GMPP (GM Performance Parts) red spark plug wires.

 

Also,

The recommended plug is AC Delco 41-110 Iridium, pre-gapped at .040

 

There really isn't much to do to tune the car anymore. Replacing plugs and wires is about it - everything else is electronically controlled. Platinum and iridium tipped plugs last a long time and worth the cost if you're not inclined to change plugs too often. Do plan on changing the wires with the plugs. It's not likely you can remove all of them without destroying a couple. Also, the rubber deteriorates over time and should be replaced for best performance. Use a little anti-seize compound on the spark plug threads when installing the new plugs. There are some good tips on this forum if you do a search on how to change the plugs. The job is a little easier if you know how to work around problems before you start.

 

I would clean the MAF and air filter as well. Change the fluids in your transmission and differential too.

 

Here's what I would do if I didn't know the maintenance records. It sounds like a lot, but you can knock it all out in a day easily. If you have the T56, it takes about 30-45 min to change both the trans and rear end fluid. If you have an auto, it will take a little longer and will be a little bit more messy. Also, this all may seem like overkill, but if you knock all of it out now, you wont have to worry about any of it for another 50-100k.

Replace Plugs and Wires

• GMPP Red Performance Wires 12495519
• NGK TR55 (3951) or NGK TR55IX (7164)

Clean the Mass Airflow Sensor

• CRC 05110 Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner

Clean the Throttle-body

• CRC 05078 Throttle Body and Air-Intake Cleaner

Replace PCV Valve

• ACDELCO 19313320

Change Trans Fluid (For T56)

• http://www.toquez06.com/tranny.html

(I used Pennzoil Synchromesh (Identical to GM Synchromesh)

Change Diff Fluid

• http://www.toquez06.com/diff.html

I used Mobil 1 75-90 LS instead of amsoil

Change fuel filter

• ACDELCO GF822
• WIX 33737

Change Air Filter

• ACDELCO A917C

Lube up Door hinges and locks

• Most people don't ever do this, I picked up the habit years ago from my father, also an interesting fact, it calls to do this in the C5 Maintence/service manual.

Inspect drive belt
Inspect Brake Pads/Rotors

Everything listed about is about all you can do preventative maintenance wise.

 

Use the AC plugs, no reason to run NGK (No Good Kind) in a GM.

 

That's funny, NGK makes ACDELCO iridium plugs, as well as a plethora of other "manufacturers" plugs. NGK is the largest spark plug and OEM spark plug manufacturer in the world. Chances are you have a (No Good Kind) Plug in one of your vehicles.

You can argue spark plugs about as well as you can argue oil types and oil filters. Pick a decent brand and you will be fine.

If you think you are buying an OEM part because it's in an AC Delco box, you're way off. Gates makes their belts, Raybestos makes their pads, NGK and BOSCH make their plugs, the list goes on and on.

 

my tr6 plugs are working just fine for me, my car must be slow... I have used tr55's in the past with good results as well... my wideband is also an ngk... they make very good plugs and o2 sensors in my opinion, I would never hesitate to use them

 

Since your car has 90K miles on it now, I'd go ahead and replace the plugs and wires.

 

NGK is a far superior plug compared to a stock AC Delco or crap Champion--- If you are a tuner or racer--You will love them solely for their cadmium plating --Makes new plugs a breeze to read---

 

The only thing I would add is change the brake fluid, suck out the clutch reservoir and refill, then do the same with the power steering reservoir. Best of luck

 

I joined the gang here, at CF, back in '01, just as I bought my '01 coupe. At that time, there was a concern of the "pucks" blowing off the side electrode of the OE plugs (remember that??), so I removed those plugs shortly thereafter. Since I previously had good luck with Bosch's Platinum +4s, I put a set of those in the car.

I realize that I don't drive the car a lot, so here we are, 14 years later, and I just turned 25,000 miles. I noticed recently, that on the rare occasions when the lack of traffic will allow me to accelerate "briskly", I was hearing a little "pinging". There was one discussion here where another poster was having the same problem, and it was recommended to get on the road and "blow it out". I did that a couple of times, and the pinging has diminished.

However, I thought a fresh set of plugs might help. I went to the AC Delco parts website, which called out the 41-962 plugs for my car. I installed them last week, and although I haven't had the opportunity to really get on it, (again, too much traffic) the car is running well. As an "old fart", however, it shocks me to pay $5-6 for a single spark plug. In my younger days, that amount of money would cover the entire set!!

 

I replaced my idler pulley with an AC Delco pulley and the damn thing had made in China stamped on the bearing seal.

 

FWIW, my new spark plugs' boxes were stamped "made in the USA"

 

Thanks everybody for the good information, especially 175rgr for taking the time for making that whole list.

 

The factory AC Delco plugs are actually DENSO Iridium plugs, made at the factory in Athens, Tennessee.
Someone mentioned that NGK are 'far superior', but that is just not true. The difference between an NGK iridium and DENSO iridium is so small you would never notice the difference (different housing plating, varying precious metal amounts in the electrode tip)
Go with Delco replacements, it's what was validated on the engine when it was in development.

But to answer your original question, they are guaranteed for 100k but could easily go longer. Post up what they look like when you get them replaced...

 

I'm not saying Denso doesn't make all their iridium plugs now. But at one point NGK did or maybe still does make them. This is an iridium ACDELCO Plug with NGK stamped on it. I found this with a simple google search, but somewhere in my garage I have a few Delcos stamped NGK as well.









Source:
http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthre...park-Plugs-NGK

 

The plugs that you are referencing are from a 3400 series 60deg v6 engine, which is obviously a different motor.

GM (and other OEM's) have multiple spark plug manufactures for different engine programs, all of which are stamped ACDelco. It's the reason why GM makes gobs of $$ off service parts. NGK has been a long time supplier of v6 engine plugs, along with many of their ecotech engines.

DENSO is the supplier for Gen3, Gen4, and now Gen5 small block plugs. Iridium Delco part number for a 2001 Corvette is 12571164. If you buy or look at one of these plugs it says on the housing "assembled in the USA with Japanese and US parts" which is a DENSO plug.

With that being said both companies make great plugs

 

No worries man. I was in the same boat as you, new to the scene. This site has great help, salted in among guys like me.

Check into some swivel tools for the plugs, some shapes work better than others, if you are in the market. I already had a swivel extension, and picked up a wobble extension set for cheap that had a size I needed.

I found it easier to remove some of the air recalculation equipment on the drivers side to reach the plugs. I got my plugs and wires in the mail, and although it says do not gap, I checked the measurement, two of eight were off slightly, so I re -gapped those, under magnification , to make sure I didn't damage the plugs, I had never used this electrode type before and was concerned they might be delicate. They weren't.

Use care removing old rubber. I didn't, figuring that any old rubber that cracked needed replacing anyway. LIve and learn. One simi useless Y connected smog line cost me eighty bucks to replace, and one small line in the back was no longer available , but was easily fabricated. I was moving a failed oil sensor at the time of this lesson.

I was like you , new to this vehicle. I had driven old english sports cars, starting up the ladder with an MG, to a JAG at the end . Figured since I always enjoyed sports cars in the past, I would get a corvette. Didn't realize it would be an entirely different planet. I just didn't want to pay for those German parts on the other sport convertibles that I could fit into.