yeah, I know...there's six million threads on brake pads already...

I've decided that enough is enough and I'm tired of the sqweaking from my Hawk pads. Called the dealer and they want $350 to install new stock pads! How difficult is it to install the pads myself given that I have done very little work on cars and would be doing it in my apartment parking lot.

And anyone know where I can pick up stock pads...I tried looking on gmpartsdirect, but I can never find anything there unless I have the part number...

 

I've got a complete set (front and rear) stock gm pads that I just took off my car. I swapped them out for Raybestos QS pads a few weekends ago. The rears are like brand new and the fronts are only worn about 30%. I can ship them to you for $65. Shoot me an email if you are interested. Also, here is a how-to about changing the pads.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=365988

 

Find someone else that could give you a hand... $350.00 is a rip-off!

 

:yesnod: :smash:

 

Do them yourself. It's easy.

Just follow the break-in procedures that come with the new pads.

 

dude.....you shoulda got here earlier on Saturday :) it's realy easy, pop the tires and off with the guide bolts :D

lemme know :D

 

For that price I would definately do them myself. It only takes basic hand tools and It's a good idea to deglaze the rotors with any change of pads. Use like 80grit sandpaper and use a circular motion to take the mirror finish off the rotors. It's also a good idea to burnish (or bed) the pads after the install. :cheers:

 

I've been considering trying the Raybestos pads myself...If I don't I'll definitely contact you about the stocks.

yeah...I just decided I was fed up with the noise yesterday...Sitting in the car and Jen says "You know, you've got a beautifull car but the sqweeking everytime we stop is embarassing"....so...time to fix it :). If you got some time and want to help me with it I certainly won't turn it down! What are you running Mark?

 

Where do you guys buy your pads from? I can't seem to find many on any of the forum vendor sites?!?

 

http://www.tirerack.com

 

Brake Pads Replacement - Front

Removal Procedure

Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.
If the brake fluid level is midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, no brake fluid needs to be removed from the reservoir before proceeding.
If the brake fluid level is higher than midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, remove brake fluid to the midway point before proceeding.

Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Hand tighten a wheel lug nut to a wheel stud to secure the rotor to the hub.

Install large C-clamp (2) over the body of the brake caliper (1) with the C-clamp ends against the rear of the caliper body and against the outboard brake pad.
Tighten the C-clamp (2) evenly until the caliper pistons are compressed into the caliper bores enough to allow the caliper to slide past the brake rotor.
Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.




Remove the upper brake caliper guide pin bolt. 15 and 18mm wrenches needed






Pivot the brake caliper body downward and secure the caliper out of the way with heavy mechanic's wire or equivalent; ensure that there is no tension on the hydraulic brake flexible hose. Do NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper.




Remove the brake pads from the caliper bracket.
Remove and inspect the brake pad retainers from the caliper bracket.


Installation Procedure
Inspect the caliper slide boots for cuts, tears, or deterioration. If damaged, replace the slides and the boots. Refer to Disc Brake Hardware Replacement - Front .

Install large C-clamp (1) over the body of the brake caliper (3) with the C-clamp ends against the rear of the caliper body and against an old inboard brake pad (2) or a wood block installed against the caliper pistons.
Tighten the C-clamp (1) evenly until the caliper pistons are compressed completely into the caliper bores.
Remove the C-clamp and the old brake pad or wood block from the caliper.

Install the brake pad retainers to the caliper bracket.
Install the brake pads to the caliper bracket. The brake pad wear sensor, mounted on the inboard brake pad, must be positioned so that it is in the trailing position during forward rotation of the brake rotor.
Pivot the brake caliper upward, over the brake pads and into the caliper bracket.

Install the upper brake caliper guide pin bolt. Tighten
Tighten the brake caliper guide pin bolt to 31 N·m (23 lb ft).

Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.

Lower the vehicle.

With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of its travel distance.

Slowly release the brake pedal.

Wait 15 seconds, then repeat these steps until a firm brake pedal apply is obtained; this will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.

Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the proper level. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling in Hydraulic Brakes.

 

All I could find on their site is EBC and Hawks? Right now I'm on the fence between EBC Redstuffs, Raybestos and stocks...Any recommendations? Basically just aggressive street driving with a few drag strip days a year...

gmblack3 - That's an awesome tutorial!

 

I got my Raybestos QS pads at Pep Boys for about $165 for the set.

 

Strictly my opinion but there is a big difference in the Redstuff and Raybestos. The Raybestos seem to go away pretty quick when they get hot. In fact a Raybestos guy was at a club meeting and told us in no uncertain terms that these were only "street" pads. I have also seen these pads not do well at a roadcourse. The Restuff Pads get better as they get hotter so are better suited if you a going to run hard sometimes. But they also dust. Personally I have never heard the Redstuff make any noise. The Redstuff have about the same initial bite as stock. The input on Raybestos is an opinion and what I have seen up at Gingerman, I've never used them. The input on the Redstuff is from my own experience. You know about stock pads which are not bad but don't extend into the heat range the Redstuffs do. Again just my opinion, I hope some other people will share their experiences.

 

Actually, I've never driven on stock pads. I bought the car used and the Hawk streets were already installed on it. They brake great but the noise has gotten to be unbearable.

The Redstuffs seem to be better pads, but I don't know if the added benefit will affect me enough to make a big difference. I've never run a roadcourse and probably won't for quite some time. Of course, I drive pretty hard on the street when I can, so I guess I should consider that a bit more than usual street. And I really like the idea of less dust (or at least, a less noticable color dust), but not at the expense of degraded braking during hard street use.

Dammit...I'm so confused..Just want the friggin brakes to stop sqweeking!... :crazy: :)


[Modified by luminary, 10:23 AM 8/27/2002]

 

i have to change mine when my new rotors come in :cheers:

 

Sounds like it is time for another MOD party to do some brake jobs :cheers:

 

yeah...it's only been what...4 days since the last one?!? :jester

 

replacing brake pads is easy. I also went with the Raybestos QS ceramics. Ultra quiet and the brake dust is almost non-existent.
Bought them at PepBoys. $75 for fronts; $55 for rear set.





[Modified by Mike Mercury, 10:15 PM 8/27/2002]

 

Matt.....I have the Raybestos, but when I'm finished painting the calipers, I'm gonna throw the old pads back on.

I changed out the rotors, pads and brake fluid all at once and now the brakes don't feel as they should, so I'm making a small change. Going to re-season the rotors with the old pads and see if that helps :)