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I am trying to fix my rear defrost that has no power at the defrost grid. When I press the rear defrost button, the light does turn on. The 40A fuse is still good, I did a visual check and a continuity check on the fuse. I have power to the fuse at the fuse box. I checked this by grounding my test light on a bolt behind the passengers kick panel check checking the fuse box with no fuse in it.
I pulled the relay and tested the continuity of the relay, and applied 12v to the relay and it did 'click' and I have continuity.
I have continuity from the center of the grid to both the left and right side contacts at the hatch struts.
When I turn the car on, and turn the rear defrost on, i have no power to the grid. I am checking for power at the center of the grid near the targa top. Is this the 12v power feed in?
With the car and and the rear defrost turned on I ran a wire direct from battery ground to the three connectors on the defrost grid (Center, left at the strut and right at the strut) and have no power.
Next I ran a wire from the battery power (+) to the three connectors on the defrost grid (Center, left at the strut and right at the strut) and all three lit up my test light. I didn't understand this, expecting it to only work on the struts due to the ground, and the center connector to not work, thinking this was power into the grid.
I have not found any other posts on rear defrost or rear defogger that would be helpful with this.
Any help is very much appreciated.
Last edited by 10yrPlan; Dec 11, 2015 at 09:24 PM.
I see you mentioned that you've done testing with the car on which is required. What is sticking in the back of my mind is that the rear grid requires the outside air to be below a certain temp to activate. Hopefully someone can either confirm or deny my thought. I know temperature applies to the AC compressor operation during front defrost.
Back at this diagnosis and repair now that I have brake lights fixed… Spent an hour or so last night, still gathering information and testing power and grounds.
Looks like I am not getting a ground from the BCM to the defogger relay, which would switch the relay and send voltage to the defogger grid. I have hot (ignition) power to the relay (fuse #18) with the ignition 'ON', and I have constant Battery power to the relay
If I use my test light to ground the relay at the Relay Coil ground there is an audible click in the RR DeFog relay and I get 12v at the defogger grid.
I am sorry, I just tried to look at the schematic I provided and I must have copied it when in enlarged view for my old eyesight. Here is the full schematic.
As you can see the HVAC unit has the button and light and sends the request to the BCM to have it ground the relay coil circuit which then closes the relay contacts and powers the defogger.
If you get the HVAC unit to light the button then it is probably good and most likely it is the BCM. It could be the wiring from the HVAC unit to the BCM or from the BCM to the relay but that is less likely unless you were doing something in the dash. You know the relay is good by what you did.
No, I know of no one who has the internal BCM design. You could try the other BCM, just would require a PCM to BCM relearn. I have that info at home. IF the BCM does not have your specific RPOs it would require Tech 2 programing. Automatic versus manual is something done in the PCM. I don't think I am wrong on that in having a Tech 2 and being in the RPO listing for changes.
Alternatively you could just put in a switch to ground the relay coil wire. If I did that I would put in a relay that was only powered when the ignition was ON. With that design it would close contacts that would be in the switch circuit so whenever you turned OFF the car the defogger/switch would be inactive. That way if you forgot to turn it OFF you would be protected.
If you want details on the design and where to get the relay power control let me know. It would be super simple.
Sorry, I didn't mean a diagram for the BCM, I meant a diagram for the pins to and from the BCM. I found an older post that you posted the BCM connector views for a 1999 that I downloaded. Do you know if 1999 and 2000 would be the same?
Yes, both my driver and parts car are 2000. I was looking for the BCM pin out and could only find a 1998 and 1999 posted on the forum, so I downloaded the 1999 to review it.
If I need relay power control, would I get it from the GM auxiliary you told about when I was fixing my brake lights?
Thank you for the PDF's. I will continue to update on my progress.
Definitely something in the BCM. I get a signal from the HVAC control to the BCM (White). When I ground the Purple (From BCM to relay) the relay coil activates.
I am wondering if I can use the White from HVAC (to BMC) and Purple (from BMC) to relay with a new control relay? This would let me have stock look, and use stock RR defogger button. Maybe use a relay with a build in timer to shut off after a set time?
If you could draw up a circuit that would be great. I am a mechanical engineer and am pretty good with electrical, but this I need help with.
So I started looking into my column lock on the car, while sitting in the drivers seat I decided to start the car - just for laughs I press the rear defrost button and I hear a faint 'click' . So I set up my power probe and grab an assistant. Start the car again and press the rear defrost button, and I now have voltage at the defrost grid. Apparently the engine needs to be running, not just the ignition in the ON position to supply voltage to the RR defogger.
It definitely didn't work before all of this diagnosis. I would stat the car and let it run while I had the front defrost and rear defogger on, and the rear did not work. Maybe cleaning the contact while doing the diagnosis fixed a connection in the circuit.
My column doesn't lock, so I was looking to see what was done to the car. At some point in the cars life it had a GM recall for the CL. I ordered a LCM5 last night to prevent the fuel shut off and DIC error messages. From aha tI read on the forum, this is something I definitely should do.
And thank you again for all your help with the electrical.
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