Its impossible. I’m stuck
However what needs to be seriously mentioned is taking off the steering wheel column with that white square tab that needs to be lifted through the metal box, is virtually impossible to remove properly. I am literally stuck at this point, everything else has gone great but I’ve been battling this and I’m really frustrated. It feels like I’m going to brake the gauge assembly because it’s giving me so much resistance. It’s stressful because it’s probably a $2000 replacement if I brake the assembly. You’d think there would be an easier way to simply remove a left side HVAC Acuator. Any tips?

thanks so much

 

Looks like you did not remove the two lower 7mm screws that hold the bottom of the IPC in place. Once those are out the IPC should move towards the steering wheel a bit then tilt it down slightly to clear the dash.

You will also find that unbolting the Bose signal processor (mounted above the gas pedal) will help with access to the actuator.

Gary

 

thanks Gary for the message. I was missing two 7 MM screws, I somehow missed them, must be getting tired. Now to disconnect the HUD...

 

Man, 3 hours of work but at least I found this to be likely it. Seems to be a common theme on these C5s. Thanks everyone who posted and to those who responded to me. It’s cracked all right

 

Have same codes showing on my 03 z06. Looks like Im in for some fun on this job. Thank you for posting.

 

It can be done. Today I successfully installed the aftermarket Dorman Actuator that has been spoken of in these threads. Here is a link to the exact one I purchased on eBay. The seller shipped this very quickly and it arrived without damage, brand new condition. The number of the dorman actuator is 604-106. This will work on driver side and passenger side. This same exact part at advanced auto parts (without their discount codes) is $138.99. On eBay I paid $28.99. Major difference in price for the same item!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-604-1...53.m2749.l2649

A few tips I will give you is to take your time, use a magnetic screw holder (free at harbor freight from time to time with coupon) or $2.99 on any given day, and if you think you may have issues remembering where things go, take pictures. You will need a 7 mm Socket, 10 mm socket, extension, 15 torx screwdriver, small flat head screw driver and a lot of patience. When removing the old actuator I believe I used a 6 mm socket with 1/4 drive. There are two gold colored hex head screws. The further back bolt is very difficult to access. I found loosening up the bolt with the socket slowly worked best, after it was approximately half way out, I removed the actual socket wrench and just used my finger tips to unscrew the bolt the rest of the way with the 6 mm socket. I found it was easier to control and less likely to drop the bolt. I did not lose the bolt thankfully. I do have small hands so that was a benefit. When you get to this part, it may make more sense what I am saying. It's definitely a relief to be done. I really hope this information helps and please if you have any questions let me know I'll do my best to answer.

 

I have the same dorman part coming from the same seller. I am taking the dash pad off, 2 screws left and it should come off, while off, going to fix or replace two vents

 

This job is also in my future, and thanks for the eBay link—I put it on my watch list. RockAuto wants over $70 for those Dorman actuators!

Some eBay sellers sell replacement gears so you can replace the cracked ones, but $29 for the whole actuator is only a little bit more than they want for just the gear.

 

I have 1998 Corvette with Dual Climate Control feature and also had the codes:

B0363 H C left actuator feedback open
B0441 H C left actuator out of range

Was able to fix it and no codes anymore.

However my solution was quite different from all mentioned above and I was able to remove and install the left actuator without removing Dashboard pad (including painful glove box removal) and also without dropping the steering down (I mean without touching any bolts on steering column nor steering wheel).

I did it by removing Instrument Cluster without removing the Dashboard pad.

Because how to remove Instrument Cluster without removing the Dashboard pad is already posted on YouTube by someone else I am just including link for that phase / stage.

Just remember that there are two cables (only 1 mentioned in the video) if you have HUD feature.

Just pry that extra HUD connector up with a little flat head screwdriver from both sides on top of instrument cluster.




Removal of the Driver side Actuator:

Once you remove Instrument cluster, you remove the tiny air vent tube that goes next to car ignition.

To get to closer screw 5.5mm is easy, once you loosen it just use the socket bit in your fingers to completely unscrew it and remove, it was easier for me to do it with the left hand towards right. The second one that is further is a bit trickier, also loosen it with socket ratchet wrench then use your right hand turn to the right with the bit holding in your fingers.

As part of troubleshooting I installed and reinstalled it several times (after big wheel retrofit, then after double-checking the alignment inside actuator & finally after another actuator housing with a good motor) and not a single time dropped the bit nor the screw.

Common Problem No 1: - cracked big nylon wheel inside

If you have Dual Climate control feature, your actuators will be more expensive because they use 5 pins instead of the one in a Single Climate control that use 3 pins only.

What is the difference? – In Dual Climate Control the position of Actuator is read from the tiny blue wheel inside the actuator.

What are the solutions to fix the cracked nylon wheel?

1. Buy cheaper new Dorman Actuator (~$50 rather than the DCC one for $250) for Single Climate control and just swap the big wheel with the metal shaft (or newer models can just be a single plastic piece of wheel and shaft).

2. Buy retrofit wheel with the grease (Aluminum, Delrin or ABS Plastic)

They come Aluminum-super-premium, Delrin-premium, ABS Plastic – regular but still better than original Nylon). Search EBay for “Blend Air Door Actuator Gear rebuild kit” (Most GM vehicles 1990-2013). They cost between $20-$25 depending on which you choose.



If you are more interested about these two options then you can watch these 2 YouTube videos done by someone else:

First is from the seller of the retrofit kits.

Just note that you need to use socket bit that fits over the shaft to tap it in place for Derlin & ABS plastic, but aluminum one supposed to just slide in.




Second one is from someone describing the differences and how to swap the weel with the shaft from cheaper new actuator.




Please note that in both cases you have to make sure you align the big wheel with the little blue wheel according to the picture where notches on the big wheel shaft are vertical (shaft in the central position on the other side you see the notch) and the little blue wheel had its dots aligned in line with the closest screw whole and also dip in the wheel is oriented up.

Here is the screenshot:



This is a screenshot of big wheel with little blue wheel proper alignment from the second video above.


If what I am writing is not clear, just watch the second video above (actually it is the third video from the top) and it will become clearer.



I went with option 2 however it still did not fix the problem and despite of going back and making sure that big wheel is aligned with small blue wheel I reset the codes multiple times and each time actuator recalibrated and spit the codes again and again.

I found another old actuator that also had cracked big wheel and just moved the retrofitted Derlin wheel with metal shaft to that one.

I reset the 99-HVAC menu and codes were gone permanently. Please note that if you want to recalibrate actuators you do not need to remove any fuses like other users say. You just need to reset 99-HVAC and that triggers recalibration on the actuators right away. You can hear how motors move under the dash even if you did not have any pending (C) nor history codes (H).

Conclusion: What was the second problem?

When I removed the shaft with a cracked wheel I put it inside the car on the door actuator attachment shaft. I moved the vent door up and down I found a resistance at the end of movement one way.

My conclusion is that the motor in the older actuator wear out and was not able to move the door all the way but the motor in the newer actuator was still strong to move the door through the resistance.

I understand that 2000 and newer Corvettes had some improvements in the vent design therefore if this is not long lasting solution the air vent part with moving doors would have to be replaced.



I hope that this report will make life easier for someone or at least give someone another option how to consider doing it.

There is a wisdom: “there are many ways to skin the cat”.

I personally love cats and do not like that example but that is the one most common in use.

Sorry kitties ;(

 

Just finished this myself. Used Four Seasons actuators. Put a digital voltmeter on the two pins by themselves 9&10 and when you get a reading of 4000 ohms it's centered as far as electronic reading. The plastic groove should be centered in the reference marks on the case. If not, pop the Actuator open and align the main wheel while keeping the blue wheel steady.

 

I did my drivers side from under the dash. A couple months ago, I pulled the dash and replaced the passenger side. I would say it's actually easier, though maybe a bit more time consuming, to just pull the dash. I'd definitely consider pulling the one that's still working and inspect it while you have it all apart.

 

Is it difficult to get to the actuators? Time frame to replace them??

 

They're not easy to do as I found it best to just pull the dash pad. Supposedly if you're limber enough you can do the driver side without removing the dash pad. You'd have to be a contortionist in my opinion. At 6'3" and 300# it was not coming out without taking the dash pad out. But in doing so since you have to remove the center console etc anyway, I bought some reflectix and solved my hot center console issue at the same time.

Total time for me was about 3 hours, but as stated I'm a big guy and 56 years old. YMMV

 

I'm 6' 200lb. I was only JUST able to get the driver's side from under the dash. I'd really recommend just pulling the dash. It basically just took me a leisurely afternoon, and I fixed a few other things while I was in there.

 

I pulled the center dash off and tried to get the drivers side of but couldn't, I did manage to squeeze myself upside down and backwards underneath the dash but still couldn't find the actuator. I looked it up and saw that it's a kind of... triangle shaped? peice, but still couldn't find it.

I guess I'm asking where it is exactly and how do i get the dash all the way off?

 

I think I just googled a video for it, or maybe it was a photo guide. Out was pretty simple though.

 

The best way in my opinion is to pull the whole dash. Center console, radio bezel, glove box, passenger airbag, windshield pillars, defroster vent, instrument panel, and driver knee bolster, then remove full dashboard trim panel.

View from above gauges in

View from above with dash and gauges out. You can see the white circle of the Actuator. Even with everything out the back bottom screw holding the Actuator in place is a PITA to access. You can see the brass screw on the front top in this picture

Driver's side Actuator is mounted to left side of the airbox, right of the steering wheel mount which is silver. Note the white center circle of the Actuator. Just above the blue vacuum hose.

 

Just replaced both mine -- though the dash isn't all the way back in yet. Wanted to note that -- as shown in photos above -- each actuator has three fastener locations, two on either side of the sloped sides and one on the edge with the connector. The drivers actuator has two 5.5MM(7/32) hex headed screws in the side holes with the third hole fitted on a locating pin. The passenger side actuator however, has one screw on the left side hole, one on the bottom hole, and the right (far) hole fitted to the locating pin. Both screws can be reached with a socket and extension (1/4" drive) through a slot in the passenger air-bag aluminum bracket. Don't assume (as somebody here did) that the screws are in the same holes on both actuators. Not that I spent parts of 3 days looking for a screw that isn't there...
There is not help for the back screw on the driver side actuator. It's just tough even with the dash pad off.

 

Very helpful discussion, I am getting the left hand codes for mine, and imagine I'll have to tackle this soon - B0361,0364,0441