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I worked on two of those exact same issues. In both cases it was internal to the HVAC head unit and not the BCM control. If it were the BCM control other lights would be affected.
I have no idea what board is the issue and if it is a common mode failure of a particular part.
Here is how to replace it. If you have a manual shifter you do not need to remove the **** and boot. They can stay in place, just pop the boot loose from the console piece and it can be rotated so the console piece can be lifted off.
I have the same issue after having the LED upgrade performed. Is there anything I can do to fix it or do I just have to replace the whole unit?
I tinkered around with the HVAC controller last night to no avail. I really have no idea why the lights would stay on like this. My only guess is that during the LED soldering process, something went wrong. I had my electronics experts at work take a look and they couldn't see anything wrong with the LEDs though. So, I don't know.
Is it possible to wire the power to the HVAC to the ignition???
I tinkered around with the HVAC controller last night to no avail. I really have no idea why the lights would stay on like this. My only guess is that during the LED soldering process, something went wrong. I had my electronics experts at work take a look and they couldn't see anything wrong with the LEDs though. So, I don't know.
Is it possible to wire the power to the HVAC to the ignition???
As others above have mentioned, I have had this problem occur twice now in the past 3-4 years. Battery goes dead over a few days and sure enough the HVAC illumination remaining on seems to be the culprit. The first time I discovered it was by accident, I walked past the car in the garage at night with no garage lights on and saw it was illuminated.
I came to the same conclusion as Mr Sam ultimately and once the battery is charged fully and the power is recycled a few times the problem goes away. I have not found a wiring diagram for the HVAC display (in my case manual), but am sure there is a relay internal to it that is sticking when the battery reaches a sufficiently low point. Now I just keep a Battery Minder on the car at all times when it isn't driven for more than a week and the problem has not reoccurred.
As most of us have discovered, battery voltage is critical to the health of the electrical system of these cars. Maintaining the battery voltage above 12 volts at all times seems to minimize electrical issues. I am convinced that the plethora of relays in these new 'electronic' cars will ultimately result in their long term demise.
As others above have mentioned, I have had this problem occur twice now in the past 3-4 years. Battery goes dead over a few days and sure enough the HVAC illumination remaining on seems to be the culprit. The first time I discovered it was by accident, I walked past the car in the garage at night with no garage lights on and saw it was illuminated.
I came to the same conclusion as Mr Sam ultimately and once the battery is charged fully and the power is recycled a few times the problem goes away. I have not found a wiring diagram for the HVAC display (in my case manual), but am sure there is a relay internal to it that is sticking when the battery reaches a sufficiently low point. Now I just keep a Battery Minder on the car at all times when it isn't driven for more than a week and the problem has not reoccurred.
As most of us have discovered, battery voltage is critical to the health of the electrical system of these cars. Maintaining the battery voltage above 12 volts at all times seems to minimize electrical issues. I am convinced that the plethora of relays in these new 'electronic' cars will ultimately result in their long term demise.
Good luck... GUSTO
Thanks for the reply! Man... what a crazy issue. I may start looking for a new used one to swap in. It's a shame because I really like the looks of the current one with green LEDs, but I'm going to have a hard time selling/trading in this car eventually if I don't replace it.
Thanks for the reply! Man... what a crazy issue. I may start looking for a new used one to swap in. It's a shame because I really like the looks of the current one with green LEDs, but I'm going to have a hard time selling/trading in this car eventually if I don't replace it.
Have you been able to get the illumination to turn off at all, or is it remaining on still?
Is your car garage kept? The real nemesis of most relays is their exposure to moisture from any source, including condensation from humidity.
What year is your car? Also which HVAC controller is in your car, the manual single zone or the dual zone with a temp display in the center of it?
It's mostly garage kept, but does get daily'd quite often.
2000 with the dual zone w/temp display.
Update: I bought a used HVAC Controller from a local shop here in OKC (American Camaro and Firebird) They sell Camaro, Mustang, Firebird, Corvette parts from scrap cars. Lots of good selection if you ever need anything. Just give them a call and tell them the part you are looking for.
I got a used controller and took the power circuit board from it and connected it to my working lighting board with my LED lights. FINALLY! It dims and shuts off properly when I shut the car off. Not the cheapest fix in the world by any means ($206), but this appears to be the only way to fix this issue. I was also able to use the newer one's buttons as they look nicer; and I have a spare lighting board just in case. It just needs new bulbs on it, but it was perfectly functioning.
I hope this helps someone else out in the future with this issue. It sucked and nearly killed my brand new battery from all the jump starts and slow drains on the battery. What a PITA.
Update: I bought a used HVAC Controller from a local shop here in OKC (American Camaro and Firebird) They sell Camaro, Mustang, Firebird, Corvette parts from scrap cars. Lots of good selection if you ever need anything. Just give them a call and tell them the part you are looking for.
I got a used controller and took the power circuit board from it and connected it to my working lighting board with my LED lights. FINALLY! It dims and shuts off properly when I shut the car off. Not the cheapest fix in the world by any means ($206), but this appears to be the only way to fix this issue. I was also able to use the newer one's buttons as they look nicer; and I have a spare lighting board just in case. It just needs new bulbs on it, but it was perfectly functioning.
I hope this helps someone else out in the future with this issue. It sucked and nearly killed my brand new battery from all the jump starts and slow drains on the battery. What a PITA.
OSU, thanks for the follow up. Mine is the basic HVAC controller, and I haven't had any issues with it in the past couple of years. I'm much more diligent about maintaining the battery voltage with a maintainer if I don't drive it for a week or more.
Travis at VetteTronics repaired mine for same issue and fixed all lighting at same time for less than buying a second controller. That guy does great work. A short in a component on the power board is what causes that.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Jan 18, 2018 at 07:07 PM.
I don’t know why this worked.... but my 2000 had hvac lights that would not shut off. I changed the hvac panel. Same thing. Would not shut off. I stumbled upon my traction control switch as the culprit. I do not have the active handling option. But the traction control circuit board has the light bulbs installed for it. Can’t see them unless you take the panel apart at the plug. Anyway I had one burned out bulb. I removed the bulb and now my hvac lighting works perfectly.
It appears I have the same issues, but with an odd twist. The HVAC lights are not "Always" on... when driving if the rest of the dash and interior lighting is off, the HVAC is as well, but when I turn the car off, the HVAC lights turn on.... Thoughts?
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