What Oil Pressure should an LS1 with 113,000miles carry at idle and 3,000 Rpm ? Engine appears to have been well cared for, no signs of varnish or blowby around manifold or valve cover gaskets , just curious and new to the LS Engines. Thanks for any information anyone can give.

 

I can tell you what my 2001 was like when I purchased it with 144000 miles on it. it would idle when warm at about 20 to 25psi and at 3000 rpm warm it would go up to 45 to 50.

 

Thanks, that's just about where this one is, how many more miles did you put on the Car and can you tell me something about what kind of service/performance you got from the engine with that many miles on it ?

 

I drove the car up until it had 146000. I then pulled the motor and repaired a major oil leak from the upper oil pan. My car is a 2001 that also had an oil consumption from the time it was new. I rebuilt the motor including pistons, rings and all bearings, camshaft, lifters.

Block looked like new, hone marks still showing in cylinders. I flex honed the cylinders and had the block cleaned and checked by a machine shop. Everything was within specs and also had the heads rebuilt. If it had not been for the oil leak and oil consumption I believe it could have ran another 150000 miles with no problem. The car had all fluids changed on a regular basis with every receipt for all work done.

The oil pressure after the rebuild went from warmed up 40 PSI at idle and warm 68 to 78 PSI at 3000 RPM with a melling 10295 oil pump. 5000 miles after rebuild and no leaks and oil pressure still same. Engine runs great but to tell the truth I cannot say that the power is any better that before just fixed the oil consumption and leak problems. It was not a compression problem just oil control and leaks. Hope this helps

 

Thanks again , this is exactly the information I was looking for. I just bought a 2000 convertible six speed with 113,000 miles on it, so far it shows no signs of oil consumption or leaks . I've only driven the Car twice , one fairly short (maybe 20 miles ) test drive to see if any immediate problems existed , crawled all over the Car for about an hour and then drove it for about 40 miles , fell completely in love , left a deposit and I'm going this weekend to finalize the deal and bring 'er Home ! I'm planning on doing pretty much the same thing you did , I'll drive the Car for a while 'till I get the money to redo the engine , I was concerned if the oil pressure was so low perhaps I shouldn't drive it at all , the engine makes no unusual mechanical noises so I guess I'll just drive easy and enjoy for a while !

 

That sounds like a plan to me. I would have not touched the engine in mine if it had not been for the oil leak and consumption. The car will now last me as long as I want to drive it. Drive your new Corvette and enjoy it. I love driving mine and even my wife likes it. Post up some pics when you can. Good luck and I wish you many miles of smiles.

 

My 2001 A4 with 102,000 miles shows about 20 psi idle, 40+ at 3,000 rpm hot.

The LS series typically go many, many miles if properly serviced.

Callaway just took their supercharged 2010 Grand Sport past 200,000 miles and it is still going strong with many track days behind it.

 

Speaking of the oil pressure sensor, anybody know an easy way of replacing it?

 

I looked at this video and then I went ahead and pulled manifold and changed the sensor. There are several threads about cutting a hole in the cowl to change the sensor on the forum.


https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...re-sensor.html

Good luck with your repair.

 

Well, here's how I do it;
buy the proper deep socket when you get a new sender.
First, remove the plastic covers on the engine.
Then remove the oil vapor vent tube at the rear upper aft end of the left head, and remove the other end from the middle of the engine at the back, and draw it out.
Then make a clip uninstaller for the oil sender wire connector clip.
Cut a wire coat hangar so the wire is about a foot long, and make a square hook on one end.
Make a slight bend in it, use a strong light, get the coat hanger hook under the clip and pull up gently and unhook the clip.
use the wire to move it out of the way.
put the socket on a 1/2 universal wiggley, then use a 12 inch 1/2 inch extension and 1/2 inch ratchet.
put a half inch wide inch long strip of duct tape on one flat inside the socket.
snake the socket and universal down onto the sender. Attach the ratchet.
Then sort of work with the angle of the dangle, and break the sender loose.
then remove the ratchet, keeping the socket on the sender. just unscrew the sender gently without the ratchet attached.
The duct tape will keep the sender from falling out of the socket as you draw it out

use a rag to clean off the surface the sender screws into. try not to get any dirt in the sender hole.

To install, use a new strip of duct tape, put the sender in the socket.
gently maneuver the sender down onto the oil hole, and be gentle, carefully screw the sender back in.
When it is snug, use a torque wrench to tighten. use the hook you made to help jiggle the socket back off the new sender.
Then withdraw the socket and extension.
Use a mirror on a stick to locate the locking tab for the sender.
Then work the connector back into the sender. Then use a long screwdriver or long 1/4" extension to push the connector into the sender once it is started....
Do not force it. You will hear a faint click when it goes home.
Replace the vent hose and the plastic covers. Start the engine and verify oil pressure.

 

I can tell you this if you start seeing it below 20 psi when hot....it ain't happy....I can tell you what happens when it gets below 8

 

Let me guess......it's BAD?!