Alternator/starter rebuild as preventative maintenance?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,233
Likes: 21
From: Baltimore suburbs Maryland
Alternator/starter rebuild as preventative maintenance?
As many of you likely know I'm in the middle of my H/C/E/I project, pecking away at it little by little each day 
I currently have the heads and the exh manifolds off (headers are Swaintech now). I can EASILY get to the starter now - I plan on cleaning up the electrical connections anyway, as I do drive the car in the rain and snow.
My car has 206K miles and is pushing 18 years old. It has the original alternator and starter. Neither have given me any trouble, but I'm wondering if I should get them rebuilt as preventative maintenance since the car is taken apart already. And, without these crucial items the car could literally be stranded
. I also know how much of a PITA the starter is to access when LT headers are in place.
This goes against my usual mantra of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
Or perhaps there's a way to check how much life is left- like the alternator brushes by taking it to a local alternator rebuild shop? Thoughts?
(yes, I'm aware of the implications in keeping the Valeo built alternator)
I currently have the heads and the exh manifolds off (headers are Swaintech now). I can EASILY get to the starter now - I plan on cleaning up the electrical connections anyway, as I do drive the car in the rain and snow.My car has 206K miles and is pushing 18 years old. It has the original alternator and starter. Neither have given me any trouble, but I'm wondering if I should get them rebuilt as preventative maintenance since the car is taken apart already. And, without these crucial items the car could literally be stranded
. I also know how much of a PITA the starter is to access when LT headers are in place. This goes against my usual mantra of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
Or perhaps there's a way to check how much life is left- like the alternator brushes by taking it to a local alternator rebuild shop? Thoughts?
(yes, I'm aware of the implications in keeping the Valeo built alternator
)
1/4 mile/AutoX
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 11,442
Likes: 2,189
From: Buffalo Texas
When I put my headers on last winter there was 57,000 miles on the car. As long as I had already took the starter off and the addition of headers I put on a new (2 long bolt) starter !!!
Quality-Built 6492SN Supreme Domestic Starter - New on Amazon 90.00 put 8000 miles on this summer no issues with the starter !!!
Quality-Built 6492SN Supreme Domestic Starter - New on Amazon 90.00 put 8000 miles on this summer no issues with the starter !!!
Last edited by Pounder; Jan 11, 2016 at 04:50 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,233
Likes: 21
From: Baltimore suburbs Maryland
I remember the 2 bolt threads but didn't pay much attention to them until you just mentioned it. Now I'm doing much more reading 
Guess I'll be replacing the starter too
At the rate I'm going I might as well replace the whole car
It started out as replacement of:
AC compressor
Steering Rack & Outer Tie Rods
Harmonic Balancer
Turned into: "While I'm there there.. might as well replace/upgrade" OR finding more broken stuff:
PCM and harness packs
243 Heads AI port and polished + Gaskets + ARP studs + valve covers and coil bracket
Cam
LS6 Intake manifold
LT Headers + studs + Swaintech coating and X pipe + new O2 sensors
Valley Cover (PCV conversion)
Oil Pump
Lifters + Buckets +
Rockers + Trunnion upgrade
Valve Spring kit
3/8" push rods
Timing Chain + Timing Cover (2 piece) + sprockets
Oil pump
Power Steering Pump + LS2 pulley + newer bracket
All belts, pulleys and tensioners
POR15 + top coat rusty frame areas
New Motor mounts
New Parts Washer
Left out the nitty gritty and I'm sure there's more I forgot to list
Now Starter and possibly Alternator
The time and $ going into this has EXPONENTIALLY increased
Guess I'll be replacing the starter too At the rate I'm going I might as well replace the whole car
It started out as replacement of:
AC compressor
Steering Rack & Outer Tie Rods
Harmonic Balancer
Turned into: "While I'm there there.. might as well replace/upgrade" OR finding more broken stuff:
PCM and harness packs
243 Heads AI port and polished + Gaskets + ARP studs + valve covers and coil bracket
Cam
LS6 Intake manifold
LT Headers + studs + Swaintech coating and X pipe + new O2 sensors
Valley Cover (PCV conversion)
Oil Pump
Lifters + Buckets +
Rockers + Trunnion upgrade
Valve Spring kit
3/8" push rods
Timing Chain + Timing Cover (2 piece) + sprockets
Oil pump
Power Steering Pump + LS2 pulley + newer bracket
All belts, pulleys and tensioners
POR15 + top coat rusty frame areas
New Motor mounts
New Parts Washer
Left out the nitty gritty and I'm sure there's more I forgot to list
Now Starter and possibly Alternator
The time and $ going into this has EXPONENTIALLY increased
Last edited by ericdwong; Jan 11, 2016 at 11:33 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,599
Likes: 399
From: Boise, ID
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2021 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
C5 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
If you do the alternator make sure you replace it with your exact part number to avoid mismatching issues. I bought a refurb as preventative maintenance and got a different part number that causes a charge fault code at startup. Ended up putting my old alternator back on.
Last edited by tommypenguin; Jan 11, 2016 at 11:46 PM.
1/4 mile/AutoX
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 11,442
Likes: 2,189
From: Buffalo Texas
preventative maintenance is never a waste of money ,I worked at a place with 40 trucks and the owner said no amount of money to prevent a breakdown is a waste of money. It's a point of view, when you have headers to r&r the starter is not easy !!!!! and I know because it's new doesn't mean it won't fail ?????
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 456
From: USA
I replaced the starter with a new Bosch and the alternator I replaced the regulator assy. It was specifically for the c5 and only cost 35.00 dollars. Bearings in the alternator seemed to be like new so they were not replaced. The brushes in the old regulator were almost worn completely out 144000 miles on them. Hope this helps 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,226
Likes: 33
From: Morton illinois
St. Jude Donor '14-'15
preventative maintenance is never a waste of money ,I worked at a place with 40 trucks and the owner said no amount of money to prevent a breakdown is a waste of money. It's a point of view, when you have headers to r&r the starter is not easy !!!!! and I know because it's new doesn't mean it won't fail ?????
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1/4 mile/AutoX
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 11,442
Likes: 2,189
From: Buffalo Texas
I replaced the starter with a new Bosch and the alternator I replaced the regulator assy. It was specifically for the c5 and only cost 35.00 dollars. Bearings in the alternator seemed to be like new so they were not replaced. The brushes in the old regulator were almost worn completely out 144000 miles on them. Hope this helps
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 456
From: USA
1/4 mile/AutoX
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 11,442
Likes: 2,189
From: Buffalo Texas
Racer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 469
Likes: 162
From: Port Birmingham AL
My alternator on my 04 Z06 started acting up (Startup faults and high voltage). The brushes were totally worn out at 137K.
I replace my regulator asssby.
It has a GM #10353441 alternator and Valeo #2542499 regulator.
I got a replacement on fleabay for $32.50. It is external and mounts on the rear, no need to open up the case.
Here is what I got, listed as a M520:
TRANSPO
M520 1
VOLT REG VL
MADE IN CHINA BY TRANSPO
6 09843 94032 2
WAIglobal a USA company
www.waiglobal.com
It's been working great for about 3 month and 2K miles.
Larry
I replace my regulator asssby.
It has a GM #10353441 alternator and Valeo #2542499 regulator.
I got a replacement on fleabay for $32.50. It is external and mounts on the rear, no need to open up the case.
Here is what I got, listed as a M520:
TRANSPO
M520 1
VOLT REG VL
MADE IN CHINA BY TRANSPO
6 09843 94032 2
WAIglobal a USA company
www.waiglobal.com
It's been working great for about 3 month and 2K miles.
Larry
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 739
From: Miami FL
...I replaced the regulator assy [in a GM #10246634 alternator]. It was specifically for the [97-01] C5 and only cost 35.00 dollars. Bearings in the alternator seemed to be like new so they were not replaced. The brushes in the old regulator were almost worn completely out 144000 miles on them...
...The brushes [in my old alternator] were totally worn out at 137K.
I replaced my regulator assembly.
It has a GM #10353441 alternator and Valeo #2542499 regulator.
I got a [02-04 C5] replacement on fleabay for $32.50...It's been working great for about 3 month and 2K miles...
I replaced my regulator assembly.
It has a GM #10353441 alternator and Valeo #2542499 regulator.
I got a [02-04 C5] replacement on fleabay for $32.50...It's been working great for about 3 month and 2K miles...
1) 97-01 Valeo Regulator 2542521B (M530) $32.99
2) 02-04 Valeo Regulator 2542499 (M520) $32.00
Safer than replacing the whole alternator and finding incompatibilities later on, and definitely cheaper!
Has anybody tried just to replace the worn out brushes in the old regulators?
Last edited by GCG; Mar 15, 2016 at 09:40 PM.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 469
Likes: 162
From: Port Birmingham AL
Racer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 469
Likes: 162
From: Port Birmingham AL
You could solder in new brushes, but would have to
locate replacements.
Here are a couple of pic and the catalog info.
One pic shows a blue cover over the brushes. It is a shipping
cover for protection. On my original regulator, it had a similar
cover with holes for the brushes to go through. To remove
the regulator, unbolt it and GENTLY work the brushes over the
slip rings. Don't try to remove the cover with the regulator in
place (I did
)
Larry
locate replacements.
Here are a couple of pic and the catalog info.
One pic shows a blue cover over the brushes. It is a shipping
cover for protection. On my original regulator, it had a similar
cover with holes for the brushes to go through. To remove
the regulator, unbolt it and GENTLY work the brushes over the
slip rings. Don't try to remove the cover with the regulator in
place (I did
)Larry
Racer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 469
Likes: 162
From: Port Birmingham AL
Sorry for the dupe, tried to edit the first post and screwed up!
A little more info. The brushes were worn out on my alternator and
caused a couple of VERY high voltage spikes. Don't know if this a common occurrence for bad brushes. These spikes were in excess of 17 volts by the gauge and caused the Inst Cluster to shut down and
blew most of the bulbs in my HVAC Display. These only happened about 3 times in the last week before replacement. I had also been getting Charging System Fault occasionally on start up for about 2 months, but the gauge showed the system was charging.
Larry
A little more info. The brushes were worn out on my alternator and
caused a couple of VERY high voltage spikes. Don't know if this a common occurrence for bad brushes. These spikes were in excess of 17 volts by the gauge and caused the Inst Cluster to shut down and
blew most of the bulbs in my HVAC Display. These only happened about 3 times in the last week before replacement. I had also been getting Charging System Fault occasionally on start up for about 2 months, but the gauge showed the system was charging.
Larry
Racer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 469
Likes: 162
From: Port Birmingham AL
The high current output goes through the stator and rectifier,
not the regulator
Larry