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rear main - should I replace? pics.

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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 11:32 PM
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Default rear main - should I replace? pics.

The rear seal dosnt appear to be leaking but I don't want to install a new on and risk it leaking if I don't have to. Chevy put new rings in when I bought the car under warranty at 50k miles it now has 77k. I don't know if they replaced the rear main.

I'm concerned about the waves on the outside. Thoughts?

Also how the heck do I get the bell housing back on with a clutch on? I had to pull off the clutch to get it off...












Last edited by seand03; Jan 17, 2016 at 11:33 PM.
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 12:29 AM
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And I broke this... and idea what it is?



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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 01:33 AM
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That rear main needs to be replaced. Looks like they pinched the lip on installation.

And the broken piece is your coolant temp sensor.
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 01:40 AM
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I would definitely replace it, it appears to be coming apart around the bottom half... I would go ahead and replace the rear cover gasket while you are there, sac city corvette sells a relatively cheap rear cover alignment tool to get the cover centered around the crank to ensure the main seal won't leak... if you replace the main seal only then you don't need this tool... if your clutch is stock you should be able to install it with the bellhousing in place, just remove the inspection cover from the lower part of the bellhousing and it will slide in from the bottom... if the clutch is aftermarket you may have no other choice than to install the clutch first and then install the bellhousing afterwards, I had to do mine this way... if you loosen the 4 cradle nuts and drop the engine down it makes it a little easier to get the bellhousing on and get to the upper bolts, long extensions and swivel sockets are also helpful... that is the coolant temp sensor that you broke on the side of the head, very easy to do when installing or removing headers and I think we have all done that at one point... just get a new sensor, no big deal
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 01:47 AM
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Don't know about on these cars, but on GTP's it usually takes ~3-5 of those coolant temp sensors to get one that actually works. Keep the receipt handy in case you have to warranty it a few times at the parts store.
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 02:45 AM
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Shoot. That's what I though, although I was really hoping someone would say the seal was a-ok.

I ordered a new sensor. I though I was smart removing the alternator to do the plugs. That's where I broke the sensor. 87$ later new plug wires and coolant sensor, yea broke a few plug wires to. Although, the 8.5 red msd wires do look cooler.

Any recommendations on the best quality rear main?

I don't think I want to replace the seal behind the cover unless it's very prone to failure...?

The new clutch is the McLeod rxt twin disk

Last edited by seand03; Jan 18, 2016 at 02:49 AM.
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 02:46 AM
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Originally Posted by GrandPrix46
Don't know about on these cars, but on GTP's it usually takes ~3-5 of those coolant temp sensors to get one that actually works. Keep the receipt handy in case you have to warranty it a few times at the parts store.
Got it on rock auto for 7$ and that was the premium one. If it doesn't work I'll go get a Oem one local.
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 04:23 AM
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If you choose to replace the seal here is a helpful tool.



Mr. Sam
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 09:30 AM
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You should replace the seal on main cover. It would suck to get the car back together and it leak in that spot. One would think it would be fine, but it's too much of a pain to get back to that point.

Welcome to the club of breaking ECT and Oil Pressure sensors. It happens more than you would think.
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 10:24 AM
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I broke the coolant temp sensor while rebuilding my motor, think it was 10$ to replace.
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