What, if any, mods are available to shorten the pedal throw?

Seems that would help speed shifts like any short throw shifter could.

 

Tick performance master cylinder, it has a bigger bore, doesn't need the return spring, a definite upgrade compared to the stock POS master cylinder. My clutch pedal currently sits an inch below the brake pedal. This is with a monster stage 2 clutch. Just know the pedal will be much stiffer compared to stock.

 

Jimmy pedal effort not being an issue, what's your opinion on matching this with a stock clutch and manners on the street?

 

I installed the tick MC mainly because my stock one gave up the ghost and I damaged my transmission in the process(was having issues shifting at high rpms.
With the stock clutch the pedal was slightly lower than where It is currently. With the stock clutch, the clutch was biting close off the floor, I was still getting full disengagement even though the pedal was 1.7-2.1 inches below the brake pedal. I will say if my car still had the stock clutch I would love it even more. But it won't handle the abuse like an aftermarket clutch.

 

$300 and change for a lifetime warranty. Sounds good.

 

The lifetime warranty is thanks to the seals inside the tilton master cylinder used compared to the POS oem master cylinder. In my opinion its always been a misconception about the "ranger method" about the so called clutch dust affecting the performance, the reason I believe the fluid turns black is because of the acidity that the fluid turns into from the absorption of water and heat, when the fluids ph level is very acidic. It wears out the cheap seals in the stock MC and the seals in the SC faster.

Without a proper remote bleeder, particles from the worn MC and SC will turn the fluid black. These particles will then move down to the slave with no way out without a remote bleeder, they will then create a blockage slowly over time allowing less and less fluid being able to be moved to slave. Thus will not allow the clutch to engage correctly, and can result in damaged drive-train components. The ranger method will only work with a proper remote bleeder that will allow all fluid to be moved out and fresh fluid moved. This is my theory I've concluded from pulling out my transmission twice. Just another reference the last time I bled my slave cylinder was 5/20/15 and the fluid is still amber clear today 2/8/16. Will prob include photos if you want me to.

Okay with that out of the way. If you do purchase the tick MC these are the instructions I used.

http://www.supertuneperformance.net/...structions.pdf

Some other points that the diy didn't mention but I will, remove the driver seat you will be much more comfortable working underneath where the pedals are. Also remove the bracket that holds the clutch switch this will allow you to get the pedal assembly out easier. Their will be 3 pita nuts that will need to be reinstalled near the end I suggest having someone with small hands on hand to get them back on. Took me an hour to get those three back on. Also bench bleed the MC, have a 1 liter of brake fluid on hand or more.

If you install the MC and the pedal is still mushy and if you have no remote bleeder, you will need to mityvac the MC from the reservoir. Make sure also the slave line is connected to the clip on the bell housing so that it isn't daggling by the drivers headers causing the fluid to boil quickly.

Also the instructions were very vague when it came to setting up the pedal height. I found it best to chock the front wheels lift the rear end and slowly adjust the turnbuckle in half turns up, turn on the car in neutral, press in the clutch and try to move the shifter into 1st gear if it doesnt go in don't force it, adjust the pedal again and try again. Once it goes in, you will then rev test to see if the rear wheels will spin. With the car on, Push in the clutch put it in first gear and rev the engine to redline, have someone(spouse,friends) watch the rear wheels to see if they spin. If they don't spin, turn off the car, and lock the nuts on the rod of the turnbuckle. Go out for a drive if you don't like the short height you can adjust it higher but becareful, to much and you can damage the slave and possibly the pressure plate.


The only Pedal install pic I have.




The only pic I have of the clip that needs to hold the slave line in circled sorta in yellow.