Forgive me if this has already been covered. I searched here and on YouTube to see if there is a step-by-step procedure to remove the air compressor. I found nothing. My bad, probably.

OK, so my A/C decided NOT to work anymore and it's getting hot and I am supposed to head to Florida. Without A/C it's a no go. Since that's my only vehicle right now.

Symptoms:
1 Vents blow normal air, not cooled by the a/c system.
2. Actuator replaced and the blend doors open and close as they are supposed to. Had the dashboard out, etc.
3. Had the A/C recharged and wasted $123
4. Mechanic said the compressor is on all the time?
5. I have no A/C codes and no burned fused as far as I can tell.
6. Even replaced the relay #34? (Fuse box by battery)
7. Mechanic said no leaks but I can't be sure. He didn't give me any of the pressures I am supposed to know. Yes, crappy mechanic. My bad there.

SO my dilemma...#1 go out and buy and refurbished a/c compressor from Oreilly for $338 bucks with a $10 core, and recharge?
#2 Go without a/c and perish on some lonely road somewhere?
I am not even sure if it is the compressor acting up, I am just assuming it is. The clutch turns when defrost or the a/c is on. I hear the the compressor click too. But not cold air.

I am pretty handy at fixing things on the car. Looking at the compressor, it looks like it would be easier to remove it from the top but the water pump would have to be out of the way for more clearance. Or, remove it from the bottom and deal with the crossmember?

Any suggestions? Links? Video? How long would this process take? Do I have to buy other parts besides the compressor itself?

Then once it;s all buttoned up, I intend to find a reliable shop to recharge the system properly or try to do it myself with a recharge kit?

Thank you so much. Maybe you faced this problem before and you know how it feels to be in 100-110 degrees with no air conditioning in a small cabin. Couldn't even take my daughter for a ride so hot it is.

I am wiliing to guy buy the parts today and get to work, but if I need the dryer and other stuff, I think I will retire the vet in the garage and find some other transpiration - I mean transportation - for the hot months.
P.S.: I know someone that has a used compressor for $100! Just removed it off his LS1 that had no issues. He has the lines too. Worth it?
Thank you!!

 

Take the car to a reputable shop that is experienced in ac work. You don't even know what is causing the problem. The compressor may be fine. The "crappy mechanic" statement must be joke. He just said no leaks and sent you on your way?? Hope you didn't pay this guy.

 

Update:

1. Found a lot of debri partially blocking the condenser... cleaned that out. Seemed to help!
2. The high pressure valve core is slightly fizzling, i.e., leaking. Will try to reseat it or find a tool to tighten it.
3. A/c was ice cold tonight during a short drive to auto zone, it's so-so with the car in idle.
4. It is not a Schrader valve but a ball valve so i am trying to find a tool that can tighten it, if possible.

 

Are both radiator fans working? Check engine coolant too. Check codes.

I bought a new compressor on Amazon for $100. I'm not sure how that will work out yet. I mounted mine with the engine out. There are three bolts and a stud going threw it and into the side of the engine. It looks like you could pull it forward and up without removing the water pump. Removing the hoses to the water pump may make life easier. Maybe remove the water inlet for more clearance.

I don't think it is your compressor at this point though. It's to early in the trouble shooting to tell. Every time I had a bad compressor it was seized up or close to it.

 

Hello.

Both fans are working. Coolant level is good. No coolant odor or apparent leaks. I think you are right about the compressor. At this point I am concerned with the hissing (minor but present) LOW PORT leak. It is the port by the battery and not the one by the a/c pressure switch.
THANK YOU for taking the time to analyze this situation.

 

The orifice tube can get clogged with trash over time. It's a screen that is stuck inside one of the hard lines that filters and helps regulate expansion. It would measure abnormally high on the high side and possibly causing the valve to fail. I cant say for sure though. Does your valve only leak when the compressor clutch is engaged?

Once again, have you checked codes? That would make things easier.

If you want to learn A/C troubleshooting, for about the price you paid your tech, you could buy a set of gauges and a cylinder of 134a.

 

The hissing leak is coming from the Low Side valve core and with the car turned off. I show no codes. I am thinking it is an issue with the valve core not seated right. I wish there was a tool that I could use to tighten it up. But the low side is not a schrader valve wit the "t" that the tool can turn. It's a ball valve core. I am checking with O'reilly to see if they have a tool for that specific valve core. It would be easy if I could just tighten it up and stop the leak. The orifice tube that you mention, requires evacuation of the freon gas before I could remove the line from the condenser? and inspect and clean the orifice tube, correct?

So two issues:

1. Valve core slight leak from the low port - needs fixing.
2. For better air cooling, maybe check the orifice tube - needs inspection.

Then, maybe I will get my air conditioning to be like new. Thanks.

 

Sounds like you have it sorted out. Maybe you can have the shop work out a deal on recycling/recovering your refrigerant if you have to replace parts (since they missed the leak).

 

If you look at the orifice tube and it is full of metal then your compressor is trash. If you replace the compressor don't forget to replaced the orifice tube and accumulator and flush the system. If you don't it will take out the new compressor in a hurry, also you will have no warranty on the new compressor. You are required to replaced all of this for all compressor warranties. Also you know if you replace the compressor you can't just charge it up. You have to vacuum the system down before to remove all moisture from having the system open. So if you are doing it yourself you will have to buy one of those and some gauges. A decent vacuum pump is @ $150.

 

Also some of those ball valve pressure fittings will screw out. The whole fitting will unscrew out of the line and is replaceable so you don't have to replace the whole line.