When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After getting my neutral safety switch problem fixed a few days ago I go out this morning for a nice ride. Car starts up fine and I go driving down my street about a half mile and the car starts stumbling and coughing. It got worse if I tried to give it any throttle. Check engine light came on so limped back home.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by ZigZag
Okay, but aren't the two 02 sensors the reason why it's running like crap ?
absolutely, the car will run like total crap especially if codes for both front o2 sensors are being thrown... rear o2 codes on the other hand will not affect performance since their only purpose is to make sure the cats are working efficiently... I agree that both sensors failing at the same time is very unlikely... I would clear the codes and see if they come back and also take a peek at the wiring/connectors and make sure they are not melted on the headers or anything obvious... if the codes reappear then get in touch with your tuner
How many miles on this car??? If in the 100K range the O2's could just be ready to be replaced but both at the same time is VERY unlikely.
I was unaware that the car had been recently tuned. Any other changes like headers, cam, heads, etc that we should be aware of??????
I personally would go back to the tuner. Why BOTH of the front O2 sensors are complaining MAY well be related to an improper tune. I personally would leave the car to be tuned properly when cold. I'm thinking the O2's got coated up because of an improper tune. JMHO.....
The car has 127,000 miles on it and yes headers were put on a month ago and the car was tuned a couple weeks ago. I now wish I had changed the sensors while doing the headers because of my mileage.
Originally Posted by neutron82
absolutely, the car will run like total crap especially if codes for both front o2 sensors are being thrown... rear o2 codes on the other hand will not affect performance since their only purpose is to make sure the cats are working efficiently... I agree that both sensors failing at the same time is very unlikely... I would clear the codes and see if they come back and also take a peek at the wiring/connectors and make sure they are not melted on the headers or anything obvious... if the codes reappear then get in touch with your tuner
Yes it's coughing and farting and the problem is my tuner is an hour and a half away in N.H. I can only imagine a drive that far would be a horror show for me. It is the front two sensors which makes sense to me now. I will clear the codes today.
I cleared the codes started the car it seemed fine so went for a drive. After a 1/2 mile it got shakey so I turned around went home got a 20 oz bottle of Techron and went out and poured it in.
Started the car seems okay so I took off for the shell station to fill up with some 93. It's like a mile and a half away and the car drove fine. Filled it up then checked the codes before I started it and there were none. Drove home fine and checked codes again and none anywhere.
I'm totally confused now as to what happened. Some bad gas ? But I use shell 93 all the time. But what else could it be ? I'll keep driving it today to see if anything happens again.
Get the car in the air and check the wires to the O2 sensors as Neutron82 suggested. Not an uncommon problem with headers to have the wires not have been properly routed/tied off and therefore touch or just be cooked by the extra heat from the headers.
Okay will do, I just went for a good long drive and the P1133 C and P1153 C came back but also this time P1416 air system bank 2 was there. Nothing else came back.
Most of the codes are not a one trip code, meaning you will have to do more than one drive cycle or more than 1 cold start in order to set the fault. Sometimes it depends on the drive cycle, coolant temp, environment temperature...ect..there are a lot of inputs into setting a fault code.
Well I had an appointment with my tuner for 10:30 this morning so went out at 8:30 to leave, turn the key and nothing just like before. It was okay for a few days after I changed the neutral safety switch.
Pulled the codes again.
10 PCM P1133C
P1153C
P1416C
28TCS C1255H
A6-SCM B2860
That's all there were. And cut me some slack here I'm 69 and have forgotten more about cars than I know now. I'm very frustrated and will be selling this car a lot sooner than I had originally planned if things like this keep up.
I feel kinda funny, after all my headaches and aggravation over my car not starting I got around to the last thing to check. Got a broom handle and worked it down between the headers but could only get at the solenoid so gave it a few taps. Got in and turned the key and varoom !
So I ordered the Bosch starter/solenoid many have talked about here. Plus I ordered a heat wrap for it as a precautionary move. Coming this week then after that done it's back to my tuner to find out why the car is not running well. So much drama going on.
I feel kinda funny, after all my headaches and aggravation over my car not starting I got around to the last thing to check. Got a broom handle and worked it down between the headers but could only get at the solenoid so gave it a few taps. Got in and turned the key and varoom !
So I ordered the Bosch starter/solenoid many have talked about here. Plus I ordered a heat wrap for it as a precautionary move. Coming this week then after that done it's back to my tuner to find out why the car is not running well. So much drama going on.
It's amazing that bad grounds, low battery voltage, and bad connections can cause SOOOOO many problems... also HEAT... starters, oil pressure sensor, alternators... etc
It's amazing that bad grounds, low battery voltage, and bad connections can cause SOOOOO many problems... also HEAT... starters, oil pressure sensor, alternators... etc
Ended up changing starter yesterday, also added a wrap for it just in case. The part of the car not running right was two bad plug wires that were to close to the header.
Bought a set of Taylor 10.4 wires and put them on this morning. I want to say that the dielectric grease made all the difference in the world putting the new wires on and the taylor wires made a click when they were seated. Went for a drive and all is well, car starts quickly and runs smooth.
Now back up to the tuners again to check things out but mainly to get rid of that dam burble that happens every time I take my foot of the gas because it's driving me crazy.
Finally back to normal, just got back from the tuners and he lined everything out real nice. And he took out just about all of the annoying burble that I can't stand. Happy days are here again !
Being a glutton for punishment that I seem to be I decided to do the rocking passenger seat repair today. You would think after the issues I've had I'd leave well enough alone. I've owned the car for 3 years and just never got around to it.
Well I said I'm doing it today so jumped in and just followed directions and got it done in no time. Yes I should have done this three years ago. Anyway it's all better and no more having the seat all the back for a five foot five person so they won't bounce back and forth.