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I have a 5 speed with a rebuilt twin disc clutch setup, Mcleod throwout bearing, and tick master cylinder. When the car is cold, everything shifts great. When the fluid gets heated up, it wont go into second gear. It grinds, when im able to get it into gear. And slowly release clutch pedal it start grinding then pops out of gear. Let the car cool down. Everything shift normal. Also if im approaching a light, while in second gear. When the car is slowing down with clutch pedal fully pushed in. And move the shifter from second to first, it grinds alil. But if the car is at a complete stop. No grind from 2nd to 1st with clutch pedal fully pushed down.
I think the pedal needs adjusting. Not sure if I need to adjust the pedal further to the floor, or away (out) from floor. I know this has been brought up before. But I cant search the forum while on my phone in full site mode. Any suggestions? To the floor or away from floor. Do I need the fluids warmed up before adjusting to get a more acurate reading. Thanks everyone.
It sounds like your transmission syncros are toast for 1st to 2nd. Best case scenario you probably have to much pedal. And the instructions tick provides are useless when properly setting up the pedal. The best starting point to set up the tick master cylinder is to reset the pedal all the way down like newly installed to the floor, have the car on jackstands in the air then turn on the car and try to put the transmission into 1st gear if it doesnt go in dont force it let off, move turnbuckle up to raise the pedal and then try again, keep raising it until it can go in gear smoothly while also making sure the rear wheels aren't spinning so have a second person to watch for you. Also once you find the spot where it feels fine, with the clutch pedal all the way down, with car in first gear rev to redline and check if the wheels spin. Now go off on your test drive and see if it shifts the way you like it, if not move the pedal up more. Though be very careful to much pedal and you'll break your throw out bearing, ask me how I know .
Make sure you use fresh dot 4 fluid, im using ate type 200 fluid in my reservoir and you can try putting some heat wrap on your mc to slave cylinder line, which I also did. Also make sure the slave cylinder line
Is Connected on the tab where it is held on the bell housing, if its dangling on the header no point of adjustment is going to help you if its boiling up.
Fwiw I have a monster stage 2 and my pedal is 2 inches below the brake pedal.
Last edited by jimmyLSX; May 20, 2016 at 10:59 PM.
It sounds like your transmission syncros are toast for 1st to 2nd. Best case scenario you probably have to much pedal. And the instructions tick provides are useless when properly setting up the pedal. The best starting point to set up the tick master cylinder is to reset the pedal all the way down like newly installed to the floor, have the car on jackstands in the air then turn on the car and try to put the transmission into 1st gear if it doesnt go in dont force it let off, move turnbuckle up to raise the pedal and then try again, keep raising it until it can go in gear smoothly while also making sure the rear wheels aren't spinning so have a second person to watch for you. Also once you find the spot where it feels fine, with the clutch pedal all the way down, with car in first gear rev to redline and check if the wheels spin. Now go off on your test drive and see if it shifts the way you like it, if not move the pedal up more. Though be very careful to much pedal and you'll break your throw out bearing, ask me how I know .
Make sure you use fresh dot 4 fluid, im using ate type 200 fluid in my reservoir and you can try putting some heat wrap on your mc to slave cylinder line, which I also did. Also make sure the slave cylinder line
Is Connected on the tab where it is held on the bell housing, if its dangling on the header no point of adjustment is going to help you if its boiling up.
Fwiw I have a monster stage 2 and my pedal is 2 inches below the brake pedal.
Here is a update. Followed the above steps. It dont act up when the fluid is hot anymore. But if im at a light in neutral, when I go to put in into first gear it grinds. But if I go to 2nd then 1st it goes in smoothly. Did the adjustment on the tick about 5 times. Still going into 1st from neutral at a light. It grinds trying to get it into 1st gear. Question, is my 1st gear sync bad? How can I really know for sure. Before pulling out trans.
Just to help with the HEAT... I vented my dust covers on the bell housing to help with air flow/circulation saw it posted by someone that tracked quite a bit... one is very easy the other the starter has to be taken off to get to it.... here is what it looks like vented
Mind you, if the clutch pedal is adjusted to brake pedal height. It goes into 1st from neutral smoothly. But acts up when the fluid is heated.
I just now reread your first post, are you running an adjustable mcleod slave cylinder? And a tick mc? Thats a big nono, way to much fluid being moved. back on to the point.
Yeah the 1st gear syncro is toast, when the car is in neutral the transmission free(forgot the name sorry) gear is spinning, when you shift
Into 2nd gear, the syncro is good so it matches the engine speed accordingly to the transmission, you can then go into any gear 1-6 without any issue because it has been matched that is until you release the clutch pedal.
Unlike when in neutral you try to shift into 1st gear with a damaged syncro and it cant match the speed accordingly because the gear teeth are damaged(thats the grind you hear). So yes your 1st gear syncro is more then likely toast.
Heres a great video I watched last year right around the time I was having issues with my trans before I got it rebuilt. Its the mn12 transmission out of our z06s. It gives you the idea of how our trans work in our cars.
But some questions for you.
How many miles are on the trans/car?
What transmission fluid are you running inside of it?
What type of clutch are you running?
Last edited by jimmyLSX; May 25, 2016 at 08:30 AM.
Just to help with the HEAT... I vented my dust covers on the bell housing to help with air flow/circulation saw it posted by someone that tracked quite a bit... one is very easy the other the starter has to be taken off to get to it.... here is what it looks like vented
I might try this soon, when I have my car in the air to change my balancer. Thx.
Why is it when I adjust the clutch pedal more toward the brake pedal height, it goes into first gear smoothly everytime. But at this height, when the fluid gets hot, it wont go into 2nd.
I just now noticed your C5 has two snails attached to its LS, that ****** must be fast af, props to you . Thats alot of power going thru the little t56, your problem isn't release error, just to much power for those lower gears, I say just drive the car like that until the transmission no longer can get into gear, unless your plans are different, RPM stage VI down the road or soon.
Why is it when I adjust the clutch pedal more toward the brake pedal height, it goes into first gear smoothly everytime. But at this height, when the fluid gets hot, it wont go into 2nd.
Probably because at that point it might be over extending it and it might to much, the crazy thing with this mc, is that the pedal is inconsistent when the fluid gets really hot, when the cars first cold at start the clutch pedal is stiffer compared to when the car has been warmed up for thirty minutes, if you're saying it doesnt grind 1st gear all the time at that current height but doesnt allow 2nd gear, I would say keep messing around with the height and get some castrol SRF in the clutch fluid.
Also how is your piping for turbos mounted around?
These set ups create alot of fun but also alot of heat, and too much heat kills the fun to fast.
Last edited by jimmyLSX; May 25, 2016 at 06:09 PM.
I just now noticed your C5 has two snails attached to its LS, that ****** must be fast af, props to you . Thats alot of power going thru the little t56, your problem isn't release error, just to much power for those lower gears, I say just drive the car like that until the transmission no longer can get into gear, unless your plans are different, RPM stage VI down the road or soon.
The mounting of the piping is it goes to the back, cause they are rear mount twins. Im just going to leave it, and shift to 2nd before 1st gear. Seems to do dine like that. Or just blow the trans, and give me a resaon for rebuild. Lol
Clutch adjustment
. 
Thanks
