When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
OK, I apologize for asking what is probably an easy question for an experienced mechanic, but I am not that. I am replacing the steering rack boot on the drivers side as it had come loose from the rack end and self-destructed. Taking the tie rod apart and getting the remnants of the old boot off was not very difficult, but putting the new boot on has been a nightmare. The rack end (big end) is exactly the same diameter as the rack end it has to go over. Ordinarily that would not be a major issue IF you could get your hands on both sides of the problem (rack and boot). However, the working area only allows the ends of my fingers in and that does not provide the leverage necessary to force the boot over the rack end. Here's the nut, does anyone have a successful method for getting the boot end over the rack end? I have spent two solid hours pushing, twisting, sweating, trying to get the boot over the rack end with ZERO success.
I had the same problem trying to put on a boot from NAPA. After several hours of trying I gave up and got an OEM one from the dealer (for about $60) and it went on easily.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by MLacroix
OK, I apologize for asking what is probably an easy question for an experienced mechanic, but I am not that. I am replacing the steering rack boot on the drivers side as it had come loose from the rack end and self-destructed. Taking the tie rod apart and getting the remnants of the old boot off was not very difficult, but putting the new boot on has been a nightmare. The rack end (big end) is exactly the same diameter as the rack end it has to go over. Ordinarily that would not be a major issue IF you could get your hands on both sides of the problem (rack and boot). However, the working area only allows the ends of my fingers in and that does not provide the leverage necessary to force the boot over the rack end. Here's the nut, does anyone have a successful method for getting the boot end over the rack end? I have spent two solid hours pushing, twisting, sweating, trying to get the boot over the rack end with ZERO success.
My boot has torn so I've ordered another one. Just want to prepare myself for the replacement. Basically take of the wheel, unbolt the tie rod end, remove tie rod end, replace boot, put everything back together? What do you have to do to make sure the tie rod end is installed at the same setting? I just had the car alignment done and don't want to have to do it again.
My boot has torn so I've ordered another one. Just want to prepare myself for the replacement. Basically take of the wheel, unbolt the tie rod end, remove tie rod end, replace boot, put everything back together? What do you have to do to make sure the tie rod end is installed at the same setting? I just had the car alignment done and don't want to have to do it again.
Loosen the jam nut and count the number of turns it takes to remove the tie rod end. Take note as to what position the tie rod tip is located ( use the clock face for reference ) when it comes off the shaft. When reinstalling the tie rod , start the threading at the same position it came off..... Example: if the tie rod comes off with the tip at the 10 o click position, start threading back on with the tip at the 10 o clock position.
It will get you in the ballpark but it probably will have to go back for a toe adjustment.
I have used a hair drier to warm up rubber boots successfully. The rack is a particularly hard to get a heat source into but give it a try. I always lube the area where the boot slides on the rack as well.
Loosen the jam nut and count the number of turns it takes to remove the tie rod end. Take note as to what position the tie rod tip is located ( use the clock face for reference ) when it comes off the shaft. When reinstalling the tie rod , start the threading at the same position it came off..... Example: if the tie rod comes off with the tip at the 10 o click position, start threading back on with the tip at the 10 o clock position.
It will get you in the ballpark but it probably will have to go back for a toe adjustment.
Just loosen the jam nut, then hit the threaded part of the inner tie rod with some paint. Replace boot. Upon reassembly, just thread the outer tie rod up to the paint marking and re-jam.
Last edited by huesmann; Dec 24, 2016 at 08:04 AM.