Air Conditioning help C5
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 89
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Air Conditioning help C5
Looking to get some opinions...
I read a bunch here and did some basic stuff...
I have a FRC with a manual control.
AC blows warm air..heater blows hot air
-No AC related codes (C1241) was the only code in the car
-Orange AC light stays on with no problem
-AC pump turns on when orange 'AC' light is on
-No obvious leaks at the pump
-When switching between warm and cold..I can hear the change of air coming through the vents.
I've owned the car for 11 years (1999) and never have serviced the AC or had any problems with it. It was in storage for 3 year and had this issue when pulling it out it out for the first time.
My next move was to purchase a set to gauges and check the low and high side pressure
Anything else I should check before spending the cash on the gauges?
Thanks!
I read a bunch here and did some basic stuff...
I have a FRC with a manual control.
AC blows warm air..heater blows hot air
-No AC related codes (C1241) was the only code in the car
-Orange AC light stays on with no problem
-AC pump turns on when orange 'AC' light is on
-No obvious leaks at the pump
-When switching between warm and cold..I can hear the change of air coming through the vents.
I've owned the car for 11 years (1999) and never have serviced the AC or had any problems with it. It was in storage for 3 year and had this issue when pulling it out it out for the first time.
My next move was to purchase a set to gauges and check the low and high side pressure
Anything else I should check before spending the cash on the gauges?
Thanks!
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 227
Likes: 6
From: Houston TX
As one more check...before buying anything,
Run the AC on Max for a few minutes.
Check the temp of the line running from the Accumulator/Dryer to the compressor (next to the battery).
If it is super cold and covered in condensation, then your problem does not need gauges to solve.
Although from your description, and that you stored the vehicle for three years it makes sense that you have a slow leak, rather than a failed compressor.
I'd "recover" the remaining freon and add two new 12 oz cans of freon (1 with uv dye), and see how long it lasts.
Still no need for gauges.
GL
Run the AC on Max for a few minutes.
Check the temp of the line running from the Accumulator/Dryer to the compressor (next to the battery).
If it is super cold and covered in condensation, then your problem does not need gauges to solve.
Although from your description, and that you stored the vehicle for three years it makes sense that you have a slow leak, rather than a failed compressor.
I'd "recover" the remaining freon and add two new 12 oz cans of freon (1 with uv dye), and see how long it lasts.
Still no need for gauges.
GL
Last edited by DanTTVette; May 27, 2016 at 06:14 PM. Reason: Add recommendation
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,747
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From: Hillsboro Oregon
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 739
From: Miami FL
Take a look at this post. It has detailed instructions and a chart that might be helpful to you.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,596
Likes: 67
From: Bahama North Carolina
Take it to pro and get the job done right. They will have the equipment and knowledge to do the job the correct way. It should be evacuated and the proper amount of r134 added. Probably cheaper than buying what you need to properly do the job, and you can't buy knowledge and experience.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 89
Likes: 1
Thanks all.
I didn't have any condensation on the line after running it for about 10 minutes on high. It was slightly cooler than the outside temp and other stuff in the engine compartment.
My buddy has a set of gauges..Probably just needs a little more juice
I didn't have any condensation on the line after running it for about 10 minutes on high. It was slightly cooler than the outside temp and other stuff in the engine compartment.
My buddy has a set of gauges..Probably just needs a little more juice
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 227
Likes: 6
From: Houston TX
These systems are charged by weight (24 oz) not pressure. So much better to get the correct amount of Freon in, rather than guessing humidity and temps and trying to interpret your gauge readings.
Be wary, if you do touch your 17 year old high side valve with a gauge, it may never seal up properly when you are done.
Don't worry about evacuating your system. It is under pressure and not contaminated right now.
Remove the remaining first charge, add the two cans. Simple.
You may get lucky and the charge lasts, but if the system still leaks once you are driving the car on a regular basis, you will have the UV dye to help figure out where the leak is.
GL
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,644
Likes: 481
From: OK
Just a couple of comments that might help.
These systems are charged by weight (24 oz) not pressure. So much better to get the correct amount of Freon in, rather than guessing humidity and temps and trying to interpret your gauge readings.
Be wary, if you do touch your 17 year old high side valve with a gauge, it may never seal up properly when you are done.
Don't worry about evacuating your system. It is under pressure and not contaminated right now.
Remove the remaining first charge, add the two cans. Simple.
You may get lucky and the charge lasts, but if the system still leaks once you are driving the car on a regular basis, you will have the UV dye to help figure out where the leak is.
GL
These systems are charged by weight (24 oz) not pressure. So much better to get the correct amount of Freon in, rather than guessing humidity and temps and trying to interpret your gauge readings.
Be wary, if you do touch your 17 year old high side valve with a gauge, it may never seal up properly when you are done.
Don't worry about evacuating your system. It is under pressure and not contaminated right now.
Remove the remaining first charge, add the two cans. Simple.
You may get lucky and the charge lasts, but if the system still leaks once you are driving the car on a regular basis, you will have the UV dye to help figure out where the leak is.
GL
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Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 89
Likes: 1
Just a followup..
I did evacuate the system. Left the gauges on for about a week with no leakdown.
Dumped 2 cans of r134 in it this morning and back to ice cold air. Total cost to buy the gauges from HF and r134 (ebay) was about $70. A friend that had a evac pump.
I did evacuate the system. Left the gauges on for about a week with no leakdown.
Dumped 2 cans of r134 in it this morning and back to ice cold air. Total cost to buy the gauges from HF and r134 (ebay) was about $70. A friend that had a evac pump.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 89
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I hear ya..I was expecting a lot more involved.
I was extremely busy for a couple weeks and knew I couldn't do much work on it...and figure it was a perfect time to let gauges sit with the vacuum in it. I had a little bit more confidence that it was only a low r134 issue. Now that I think of it..it sat for over 2 weeks.
I guess time will be the real tell. With R134 being about $6-7 shipped a can on ebay...if I have to charge it every couple years..so be it.
I was extremely busy for a couple weeks and knew I couldn't do much work on it...and figure it was a perfect time to let gauges sit with the vacuum in it. I had a little bit more confidence that it was only a low r134 issue. Now that I think of it..it sat for over 2 weeks.
I guess time will be the real tell. With R134 being about $6-7 shipped a can on ebay...if I have to charge it every couple years..so be it.