This is a follow-up to a question I had about replacing the timing cover seal. When I got the dampener off, I discovered that it was badly scored and I am replacing it.


When I got the timing cover off, I could literally spin the old seal while it was still in the cover without any real force at all. When I went to remove it from the cover, I barely touched it and it fell out leading me to believe that it has probably just been spinning in the cover. Is it possible that the timing cover is also scored and should be replaced?

A little background may help. It is a 99 corvette. It had 56k miles on it when I bought it four years ago and 72k now. I swapped heads and cam three two years ago but did not replace the balancer—it may have been scored then, but I just didn’t know it was a problem and didn’t really look at it. It did not leak oil for two years but started leaking oil last fall from the front seal before I put it away for the winter and it got really bad this spring. When I did the head and cam swap three years ago I replaced all of the gaskets including the front seal. The front seal was a Victor Reinz.

I have Fel Pro gaskets, an Arp Crank Bolt and a Summit Balancer ready to go back in. Only question in my mind is whether I replace the timing cover too? Appreciate any thoughts.

 

Use some RTV around the periphery of the new seal and as long as it fits reasonably snugly you should be good. Allow the RTV to cure for awhile before re-installing HB.
I would definitely however, not replace the HB with anything stock i.e., Dorman, OE GM, etc, even if it DOES come from Summit. Best bang for the buck is Powerbond (now sold under the Dayco brand name), even if you choose not to go with an underdrive diameter for a few more ponies. They make stock diameter as well. Their quality is superior. I chose to use the "Race Series" which is identified by the "SS" suffix on their part numbers.

HTH

 

Thanks very much. The new one will fit snugly. I will use a little RTV as you suggest.

The balancer I bought from Summit is the Summit Racing SUM-C2501 - Summit Racing® Bracket Racer SFI Harmonic Damper. I looked at the OEM and other cheaper brands and after reading a lot of opinions went with this one. I guess the ATI's are the best, but I was not willing to spend that much. I hope this is an improvement over the original equipment.

Thanks again,

Carl.

 

I've dealt with a few different transmission shops and all used a gasket sealant on the seals they put into the transmission case. The kind of stuff that comes in a little can with a brush attached to the lid. Permatex Form a Gasket comes to mind as the sealant they were using. They would put it on and immediately install the seal as opposed to letting it dry a little first like you would when using it to make a gasket.

 

I don't see how the seal would be spinning in the recess of the timing cover, because the clamping force of its OD, should be greater than the sliding friction of the balancer turning.

HOWEVER, the LS series engines use critical installation procedures for the front and rear crank seals, requiring that the seal be ACCURATELY centered on the crank. If the front cover was removed, and not re-installed properly, possibly it's "off center" a bit, causing an excessive side load on the seal. I'd recommend using a locating tool, such as the one sold by SACCITY, to center up the front cover.

 

I admit that I probably didn't get the timing cover centered correctly when I put it back together a few years ago. I followed the LS1 suggestion about installing the balancer and then tightening the cover. From what I have read others have followed that procedure and had good luck. Apparrently, I was not as lucky and am not willing to leave it to chance again. I did buy the saccity tool and plan to use it this time.

I don't know if the seal was spinning while operating (because it was not visible behind the balancer) but it would spin by just pushing it around with my finger when it came out--there was virtually no clamping force around the OD. I have not installed the new one, but when I set it in the opening, it looks like it will fit in with some clamping force. Hopefully, as you say, when I have it properly centered using the saccity tool and then install the seal, the sliding force against the balancer will be less than the clamping force and it will stay put.

I was just nervous that it may have damaged the seal seat on the cover, but I have not seen any posts suggesting that is a problem. Thanks for your help. Carl.

 

The service manual does not call for any sealant on the seal. It should be a dry install. The reason the old one fell out like that is because the seal got caught on the groove on the balancer and pulled it out when you removed the balancer.

 

Thanks. I have a copy of the service manual and I agree it doesn't call for sealant. However, I was concerned that the old seal spinning in the opening may have enlarged it. As it turns out I think that fear was unfounded, but I did put a little RTV on the seat to make sure it stayed put.