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Old Jun 12, 2016 | 03:35 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Artizan
Thanks! Question: if there are current codes 'C' , will those show up on the DIC screen right after startup? When I start the car it is blank and after a few minutes it goes to the 'warming up active handling' then a few minutes later I get the active handling error and 'service vehicle soon.' Or do I have to manually pull them even if they are C codes?
You need to manually pull them. Instructions here:

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Old Jun 12, 2016 | 06:19 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Artizan
Thanks! Question: if there are current codes 'C' , will those show up on the DIC screen right after startup? When I start the car it is blank and after a few minutes it goes to the 'warming up active handling' then a few minutes later I get the active handling error and 'service vehicle soon.' Or do I have to manually pull them even if they are C codes?
The answer is yes, some will... and some will not. If there is a constant fault in one of the systems, it will probably show up immediately. If there is an intermittent fault, it may take a while for it to return.

The reason that most folks suggest you clear all of the codes is that some of the current codes (C) are themselves periodic or even one time codes that haven't yet cleared and turned to H codes. (If a current fault (C code) does not reoccur within a certain number of start cycles, the code will automatically revert to an H code.) Clearing the codes after writing down each code and the relevant H or C (or both) will give you a better idea of what you need to concern yourself with and what really is just random the next time you check them. As an example, if you clear every code and then allow the voltage of the battery to drop below about 11 volts (even inadvertently), and then try to start the car, even if it starts, it will inevitably set a few codes as a result of the low voltage. This is why you clear them and see which ones come back.

In your case you do need to work on getting your RESET button fixed so you can take full advantage of the terrific diagnostic tool that Chevrolet gave the C5.

Good luck... GUSTO

Last edited by GUSTO14; Jun 12, 2016 at 06:23 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 12:52 PM
  #23  
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Default Plugs and Wires

OK, you have all been so helpful...another thing:

Let me preface this by saying the car runs GREAT. But, with 80k miles and the fact that I have no proof that the first or second owner changed the plugs, should I consider replacing the plugs and wires? I read that GM RED performance wires are good. And that GM AC Delco Iridium plugs are also good. I am leaving the car with a local 'Vette certified tech for the Active Handling repair. Should I order the plugs and wires and go ahead and have him replace those? I have read posts by folks with '99 C5's that have well over 100k miles and they still have original plugs.
And which model # for the Iridium plugs do I need. Is it 41-110 ? This is a '99 C-5.

Last edited by Artizan; Jun 15, 2016 at 02:37 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 07:42 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Artizan
OK, you have all been so helpful...another thing:

Let me preface this by saying the car runs GREAT. But, with 80k miles and the fact that I have no proof that the first or second owner changed the plugs, should I consider replacing the plugs and wires? I read that GM RED performance wires are good. And that GM AC Delco Iridium plugs are also good. I am leaving the car with a local 'Vette certified tech for the Active Handling repair. Should I order the plugs and wires and go ahead and have him replace those? I have read posts by folks with '99 C5's that have well over 100k miles and they still have original plugs.
And which model # for the Iridium plugs do I need. Is it 41-110 ? This is a '99 C-5.
With 80k miles and considering the cost of good plugs, it certainly can't hurt anything to change them at this time. If they are in fact original plugs, it's a good idea to remove them if for no other reason than to insure they have adequate anti-seize on them. It is not uncommon to actually damage the threads on an aluminum headed engine when plugs are left in too long. If your mechanic is a certified tech, he's probably well aware of this and will no doubt use caution when removing the old plugs.

Changing out the plug wires is probably a good idea as well. While there is far less risk of damaging the engine, it's not unusual to damage some of the wires when removing them to change plugs. Particularly so if they are also original. Having a new set ready to go will eliminate this as a problem to deal with should any of them get damaged.

The part number will of course depend on the brand you choose. Fortunately there are plenty of good options in that regard.

Good luck... GUSTO
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Old Jun 16, 2016 | 01:49 PM
  #25  
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Default Wow

I went out to look into the DIC again. I had mentioned that the reset button didn't work, and even the former owners mechanic agreed. Well, I pushed the button quite firm and it actually has a very slight 'click' to it and boom the reset button works! I was able to clear out trip meter, etc. Also, make changes to 'Twilight' , 'Easy Entry' and so on. I did order the new button assembly from corvettepartscenter.com. Maybe good to have as backup?

But NOW the new error that is flashing right after startup procedure is 'LOW COOLANT.' Didn't have this before. No coolant leak in garage. Is this common?
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Old Jun 16, 2016 | 01:56 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Artizan
I went out to look into the DIC again. I had mentioned that the reset button didn't work, and even the former owners mechanic agreed. Well, I pushed the button quite firm and it actually has a very slight 'click' to it and boom the reset button works! I was able to clear out trip meter, etc. Also, make changes to 'Twilight' , 'Easy Entry' and so on. I did order the new button assembly from corvettepartscenter.com. Maybe good to have as backup?

But NOW the new error that is flashing right after startup procedure is 'LOW COOLANT.' Didn't have this before. No coolant leak in garage. Is this common?
I wouldn't say it is common... but they did a GREAT job of hiding the level mark on the reservoir tank... it is on the FRONT of tank...and you have to LOOK for it...just make sure it is at that mark... might be a good time to change the fluid if it hasn't been done for a while
Dex Cool Coolant is recommended

Last edited by 73Corvette; Jun 16, 2016 at 01:57 PM.
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