Sigh...I just got done installing my new shifter. And the rain started coming hard (Live in Houston). So I put the car in the garage, didnt drive it for around 8-9 days. (No tender at the time, I know, im a terrible owner). Rain stopped and decided to take the car out. Put the key in the ignition and started getting all this Low Voltage, Reduced Engine Power, Traction Control lights flickering. After a couple of times of taking the key in and out, the car finally started. Went to Advanced Auto where I bought my battery, they said it was a tad low but still in decent shape. It was still under warranty, so they replaced it for a 'new' one. The dates on the new battery says 04/16 so im assuming it is 'new' was on the shelf for a two months? As soon I got the new battery replaced, I bought a tender plus and plugged it in. Still got the same symptoms. The car would eventually turn on after a couple of tries with the key/ignition. Took it to get load tested, battery checked out fine around 12.6-12.8 volts. They checked the alternator/starter and those checked out fine too. Ive been reading a lot of threads since, a lot of Bill curlee and a lot of stuff about cleaning the grounds, ignition switch, etc.
Does this seem like thats whats going on? I never had this problem before. There has even been an occasion when I was driving and the car shut down and I had to pull over and turn it back on. Right now it is on the tender and about to get it taken to a corvette specialist and he said he will check it out. I just dont want to throw money at it. The only thing is I am not electronically inclined. I enjoy installing mechanical stuff, but electronics scare the death out of me. Oh last but not least, these were the codes that came on:

P1518 10 PCM
28TCS C1278H
60IPC U1088
A0 LDCM U1016H
A1 RDCM U1016H
A6 SCM B2860 HC

Once the car is running, the voltage on the dic stay around 13-14 and I reset the codes and all of these disappear except the last ones. Please I know this is a repeated thread topic but I still feel helpless. Wish Bill Curlee lived in Houston! lol

 

My bet would be the ignition switch contacts are burned. Clues are that the car will start after a second or third try, low voltage and dying on the road. The last ignition switch gone bad that I experienced displayed all those symptoms.

Changing the ignition switch is not a difficult job, read up about it on the forum and other on line sources as well as the Factory Service Manual.

 

Clear the codes go for a drive then PULL the CODES BEFORE you shut the car off and see which ones are current... then post them...

 

Being parked for 7-8 days does not require a tender as long as you take it for a decent drive when you do go out.

Does the dash or anything else cut-out or turn-off when the car shuts down?

What exactly happens when it won't start? Security light? Any clicks?

It does sound like the ignition switch.

 

Yea that's exactly what happens. Whenever it doesnt turn on, I have to take the key out and try it a couple of times and finally the voltage goes back to 'normal' status. It is definitely not an uncommon problem with the ignition switch.


The dash goes dim, the gauges dont really turn on fully, and it just gives me the low voltage, reduced engine power and sometimes traction control. When it doesnt start, it wont fully crank over. Not really any clicks, but rather I can hear the engine trying to turn over but not fully be on, if that makes sense, not too familiar with the terminology.

Yesterday, I did this and as soon as it was driving fine, no codes were on except for:

A6 SCM B2860 HC (Which has been on since i've owned the car)
And the Radio has no comm ever since i got the new head unit installed.

**Update**
Cleaned up the grounds and connectors yesterday near the front engine. They surprisingly weren't in terrible shape but I was able to get some corrosion off. Turned the car on, same problem. I started getting a flickering security light. I heard sometimes this is due to the actual key and the VATS system. I only have one key so I was thinking of getting a new one made anyways. I drove to the dealership to go get one and they said they didnt have one in stock but I can pick it up tomorrow (today now). I started driving home and when I almost made it home, my car just completely shut off again! I pulled over and now the main symptom is that I got the flickering security lights, then low voltage and not wanting to start. So I think you guys are right, it is probably due to something ignition related. Will update soon you guys. Thanks for everything so far!

 

Ignition switch... new key won't fix that, but it will be nice to have a spare...

 

Yes, it really sounds like the ignition switch. Just get a new one because cleaning the old one is a stopgap measure. If you can do mechanical work then you can swap the switch.

 

I have replaced my ignition switch and if I can do it so can you. I bought a new one and it just took me a couple of hours. There are lots of directions on the forum in how to do this. Search ignition switch replacement.

 

Ok cool, I will look into the install instructions...The most work I have done with this car myself is upgrade the sway bars/links and change the shifter. Thanks again for yalls help! The forum always help me be at ease lol

 

Got it fixed y'all. So with a newborn and a busy week ahead, I decided to just drop it off at a well known vette shop I trust (Frank's Vettes if you live near Houston). Told them our hunch about the ignition switch and it was part of the problem! The other part was that the key cylinder itself was bad too. He said the wires were barely hanging on by a thread and also the contacts in the ignition switch was toast. Car is running well and I owe it to y'all. Thanks for the help!

 

Thanks for getting back with the solution.