Door switch panel...Memory VS non-memory
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Door switch panel...Memory VS non-memory~EDIT FIXED with repair tips
Wondering if anyone has attempted this...searched for a bit and didn't see anything
My lock button doesn't work on my non-memory driver's switch panel.
In my attempt to fix it I carefully removed the membrane from my non-memory panel and exposed the contact point for the 2 memory switches. Just a quick FYI the glue they use to secure the membrane doesn't adhere real well to the plastic..so you can kinda lift\pry it up with a razor blade pretty easy.
This leads me to believe that the switch board 'might' be the same for the memory vs non-memory units.
Of course the memory switch panel can be had for about $90 where the non-memory panel is $350+
Has anyone used a driver door switch with the memory switches..in a non-memory car?
If they are compatible swapping the membrane is about a 5 minute job...and a few hundo cheaper
Thanks!
My lock button doesn't work on my non-memory driver's switch panel.
In my attempt to fix it I carefully removed the membrane from my non-memory panel and exposed the contact point for the 2 memory switches. Just a quick FYI the glue they use to secure the membrane doesn't adhere real well to the plastic..so you can kinda lift\pry it up with a razor blade pretty easy.
This leads me to believe that the switch board 'might' be the same for the memory vs non-memory units.
Of course the memory switch panel can be had for about $90 where the non-memory panel is $350+
Has anyone used a driver door switch with the memory switches..in a non-memory car?
If they are compatible swapping the membrane is about a 5 minute job...and a few hundo cheaper
Thanks!
Last edited by M0nsterBash; Jun 28, 2016 at 08:15 AM.
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 89
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Update...mostly because I'm cheap..and impatient =).
These are actually really easy to work on..and REALLY expensive to replace.
If you carefully scrap away some of the plastic 'nipples' that hold the clear plastic covers on you can remove them..and expose the flexible printed circuit 'board'. In my case it was real obvious where the problem was. There was a broken trace at the lock switch contact pad. A DMM show no continuity.
I did a quick solder repair and presto...all is fine. If you're not comfortable soldering something that small it's probably best not to... because you can make a mess of the traces really fast. They do make a product...in a liquid form that is conductive. It's used for 'fixing' rear defogger traces. Might be worth tracking that stuff down.
The clear plastic insert did fit back in really tight. I added a tab of JB weld on them just to make sure they weren't going anywhere. It probably wasn't needed
The whole process took well under an hour (it was already removed from the car..but that only takes a coupe of minutes). Sure beats spending $350-$450 on a new one
These are actually really easy to work on..and REALLY expensive to replace.
If you carefully scrap away some of the plastic 'nipples' that hold the clear plastic covers on you can remove them..and expose the flexible printed circuit 'board'. In my case it was real obvious where the problem was. There was a broken trace at the lock switch contact pad. A DMM show no continuity.
I did a quick solder repair and presto...all is fine. If you're not comfortable soldering something that small it's probably best not to... because you can make a mess of the traces really fast. They do make a product...in a liquid form that is conductive. It's used for 'fixing' rear defogger traces. Might be worth tracking that stuff down.
The clear plastic insert did fit back in really tight. I added a tab of JB weld on them just to make sure they weren't going anywhere. It probably wasn't needed
The whole process took well under an hour (it was already removed from the car..but that only takes a coupe of minutes). Sure beats spending $350-$450 on a new one
