C6 Z06 Brake Line Info and Install Thread ?'s, Those with C6 Z06 Chime In Please!
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C6 Z06 Brake Line Info and Install Thread ?'s, Those with C6 Z06 Chime In Please!
Background: I'm doing a c6 z06 bbk swap on my 2001 c5 coupe and currently have goodridge ss lines installed to my stock c5 calipers. They are not the block style fitting I have found from threads that are several years old. They are a donut in shape with the banjo bolt going through it. The fitting is low profile it should clear without modification assuming I can get the right angle and the lines are long enough. Hoping the guys who have done this mod can share their trials and tribulations to make this smooth.
Questions: Will these lines work with the c6 z06 calipers or do I need to go with a different set of lines? If so, what brand, a part number would be great? What orientation should the line be pointing with respect to the hole it mounts to, ie 12 o'clock, 9 o'clock(toward the engine), etc? Should I mount the caliper to the knuckle first and then attach the line or do the line first and then attach the caliper to the knuckle?
Initial Plan on Install, Please Provide Feedback:
1. Install Rotors with lug nut holding them to knuckle.
2. Put a dab of oil on the Caliper Pad Alignment Hex Bolts.
3. Torque those Caliper Pad Alignment Hex Bolts down to 20ft/lbs.
4. Lube Caliper Pad Alignment Hex Bolt tips with brake quiet.
5. Lube Brake Pads with brake quiet.
6. Slide brake pads in one by one.
7. Remove brake line from stock caliper.
8. Replace copper washers for the banjo bolt with new ones.
9. Install brake line to C6 Z06 calipers torqueing banjo bolt to 14 ft/lbs in the 9 o'clock position.
10. Mount the caliper to the knuckle and use loctite on the caliper bolts, torqueing down to 120 ft/lbs.
Thanks so much guys.
Pics of my current brake line fitting and the caliper brake line mounting point for reference....
Questions: Will these lines work with the c6 z06 calipers or do I need to go with a different set of lines? If so, what brand, a part number would be great? What orientation should the line be pointing with respect to the hole it mounts to, ie 12 o'clock, 9 o'clock(toward the engine), etc? Should I mount the caliper to the knuckle first and then attach the line or do the line first and then attach the caliper to the knuckle?
Initial Plan on Install, Please Provide Feedback:
1. Install Rotors with lug nut holding them to knuckle.
2. Put a dab of oil on the Caliper Pad Alignment Hex Bolts.
3. Torque those Caliper Pad Alignment Hex Bolts down to 20ft/lbs.
4. Lube Caliper Pad Alignment Hex Bolt tips with brake quiet.
5. Lube Brake Pads with brake quiet.
6. Slide brake pads in one by one.
7. Remove brake line from stock caliper.
8. Replace copper washers for the banjo bolt with new ones.
9. Install brake line to C6 Z06 calipers torqueing banjo bolt to 14 ft/lbs in the 9 o'clock position.
10. Mount the caliper to the knuckle and use loctite on the caliper bolts, torqueing down to 120 ft/lbs.
Thanks so much guys.
Pics of my current brake line fitting and the caliper brake line mounting point for reference....
Last edited by tommypenguin; 07-11-2016 at 01:33 PM.
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I would use antisieze on the caliper pin threads instead of oil, those things are bad about getting stuck... for the lines I used some from kore3 but I have a brand new set in my toolbox I bought from doug rippie to replace them with, I just haven't got around to it yet... they are really nice, also made by goodridge, and get rid of the banjo bolt, it uses an -an fitting instead
Last edited by neutron82; 07-02-2016 at 09:58 PM.
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I would use antisieze on the caliper pin threads instead of oil, those things are bad about getting stuck... for the lines I used some from kore3 but I have a brand new set in my toolbox I bought from doug rippie to replace them with, I just haven't got around to it yet... they are really nice, also made by goodridge, and get rid of the banjo bolt, it uses an -an fitting instead
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As for the line, I'm going to try and mount the line at the 9 o clock position pointing inward toward the engine between the caliper bolts and see how it goes. Will have a bottle of water and towels handy to keep the paint dry of brake fluid dripping from the existing line on the paint. If the line is bent too awkwardly I will buy the drm lines but they aren't cheap.
Last edited by tommypenguin; 07-02-2016 at 10:34 PM.
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I second the DRM lines. I used them when I did my swap over the winter. Very nice quality pieces. Yours may work though as-is. The DRM's have a big benefit of not having banjo bolts or washers to deal with though, which is a plus in it's own right. You can position the line essentially at whatever angle you need it to be and don't have to worry about sealing issues.
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The drms look really nice and if I were buying a set of lines having not owning my current ones it would be a no brainier. However if I can save 150$ and use my existing ones I will do it.
On second thought I'm going to install the line first at the 9oclock position before mounting the caliper to the knuckle. Given the difficulty people describe of getting the banjo bolt threaded it will be easier to do when I can contort the caliper to the line. Hope it works, should know sometime this week. Pictures and my experience doing this will be enroute.
On second thought I'm going to install the line first at the 9oclock position before mounting the caliper to the knuckle. Given the difficulty people describe of getting the banjo bolt threaded it will be easier to do when I can contort the caliper to the line. Hope it works, should know sometime this week. Pictures and my experience doing this will be enroute.
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What torque spec did you guys with on your fitting or banjo bolt to caliper? Saw 30ft/lbs is for OEM and stoptech recommends 14ft/lbs.
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I got 15ft/lbs down on the lines. Edit I torqued the bolts down to the knuckle at 125 with Loctite.
Progress...
Progress...
Last edited by tommypenguin; 07-06-2016 at 04:59 PM.
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All good with the other 3 wheels followed the same practice mounting the line pointing toward the middle of the car. Then used my motive power bleeder. The cap started leaking after applying 8psi so it took forever to bleed but it's done.
Bought the rears used and they have a couple chips, going to touch them up with some victory red touch up paint and then apply some gloss coat to them.
Bought the rears used and they have a couple chips, going to touch them up with some victory red touch up paint and then apply some gloss coat to them.
Last edited by tommypenguin; 07-17-2016 at 11:18 PM.
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Got an update, I discovered I made a mistake yesterday from the front driver side brake line install for the C6 Z06 calipers. In my picture above on the passenger side caliper I had my line pointed downward toward the ground at the banjo bolt fitting, which is correct. On the driver side the line was more pointed upward.
While doing another project on the car I noticed on that front driver side brake line there had been contact made with the brake line and the inside of my wheel. No damage was done to the braided portion of the line but the rubber coating over the line was torn where contact was made.
If you have your line pointed upward when you turn your wheel completely in the direction on the side the wheel is on it will make contact with the brake line. To prevent this, you need to point the line as far downward as possible. Would have been nice if there was a mid mounting point for the brake line, like on most cars designed on the vette but oh well.
I went ahead and corrected this, bled the brakes, then turned the wheels lock to lock to make sure no contact was made with the wheel and the line. I ordered a pair of stop tech front lines for replacement that I will throw on in a couple months as a winter project.
I recommend that when installing your brake lines to your C6 Z06 calipers that you test turning your wheels lock to lock before putting miles on your car so you don't have to correct this issues.
While doing another project on the car I noticed on that front driver side brake line there had been contact made with the brake line and the inside of my wheel. No damage was done to the braided portion of the line but the rubber coating over the line was torn where contact was made.
If you have your line pointed upward when you turn your wheel completely in the direction on the side the wheel is on it will make contact with the brake line. To prevent this, you need to point the line as far downward as possible. Would have been nice if there was a mid mounting point for the brake line, like on most cars designed on the vette but oh well.
I went ahead and corrected this, bled the brakes, then turned the wheels lock to lock to make sure no contact was made with the wheel and the line. I ordered a pair of stop tech front lines for replacement that I will throw on in a couple months as a winter project.
I recommend that when installing your brake lines to your C6 Z06 calipers that you test turning your wheels lock to lock before putting miles on your car so you don't have to correct this issues.
#12
Drifting
Got an update, I discovered I made a mistake yesterday from the front driver side brake line install for the C6 Z06 calipers. In my picture above on the passenger side caliper I had my line pointed downward toward the ground at the banjo bolt fitting, which is correct. On the driver side the line was more pointed upward.
While doing another project on the car I noticed on that front driver side brake line there had been contact made with the brake line and the inside of my wheel. No damage was done to the braided portion of the line but the rubber coating over the line was torn where contact was made.
If you have your line pointed upward when you turn your wheel completely in the direction on the side the wheel is on it will make contact with the brake line. To prevent this, you need to point the line as far downward as possible. Would have been nice if there was a mid mounting point for the brake line, like on most cars designed on the vette but oh well.
I went ahead and corrected this, bled the brakes, then turned the wheels lock to lock to make sure no contact was made with the wheel and the line. I ordered a pair of stop tech front lines for replacement that I will throw on in a couple months as a winter project.
I recommend that when installing your brake lines to your C6 Z06 calipers that you test turning your wheels lock to lock before putting miles on your car so you don't have to correct this issues.
While doing another project on the car I noticed on that front driver side brake line there had been contact made with the brake line and the inside of my wheel. No damage was done to the braided portion of the line but the rubber coating over the line was torn where contact was made.
If you have your line pointed upward when you turn your wheel completely in the direction on the side the wheel is on it will make contact with the brake line. To prevent this, you need to point the line as far downward as possible. Would have been nice if there was a mid mounting point for the brake line, like on most cars designed on the vette but oh well.
I went ahead and corrected this, bled the brakes, then turned the wheels lock to lock to make sure no contact was made with the wheel and the line. I ordered a pair of stop tech front lines for replacement that I will throw on in a couple months as a winter project.
I recommend that when installing your brake lines to your C6 Z06 calipers that you test turning your wheels lock to lock before putting miles on your car so you don't have to correct this issues.
Last edited by reactor2; 07-06-2017 at 05:29 PM.
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#13
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Pointing the line downward at the banjo bolt, that is dead wrong. If you do that the brake line WILL contact the control arm on a full turn. Just like the OEM C5z or C6Z, the brake line should be pointed up NOT down. You need to do a test fit and check for clearance with the control arm assembly fully extended in both directions.