So many clutches, so many choices. So, I will state my goals, and I'm 100% positive you guys can help me decide.

No chatter/keep daily driveability good
Smooth shifting at high rpm
Occasional drag racing on drag radials
Not ridiculously expensive
Can hold 600 whp/wtq easily

I already have a new master. Was thinking the LS7 option, but don't want the extra weight.

Experiences, options, brands and prices are welcome.

Thanks so so much!

V

 

Cultrag has the LS7 with the billet aluminum flywheel option. I got the LS7 with steel flywheel (not going to track the car) and it is excellent.

 

I wouldn't recommend an ls7 clutch for 600hp, I would get a twin disc... I personally run an act twin, it meets all of your criteria and it's been a good clutch for me but not real popular in this community... I would also look at mcleod rst/rxt or mantic

 

I agree, I was going to say Mcleod RST twin but figured he didn't want to spend the extra $$.

 

Quartermaster FTW!

 

Cool. I'll check those out, along with the ACT.

 

I found the McLeod RST twin for $750.00. Thats probably the highest that I'd go. Does it chatter much?

 

Mantic ER2 single. $750, drives similar to stock and been holding 620rwhp/600rwtq on a 27" ET street. Still shifts like butter and not one sticky pedal, ever.

 

I'd do a twin disk at that power level. McLeod would be my choice.

 

I actually just finished installing my McLeod RST this past weekend! I also opted for a new pilot bearing, throwout bearing with a Tick remote bleeder, and McLeod's billet steel flywheel. Since the install I only drove it around 10 miles from my friend's garage to my house, but from what I can tell, the pedal is actually softer than with the stock clutch. Engagement is light but slight chatter was noticeable. My factory flywheel definitely had some hot spots in it. I guess it didn't appreciate the repeated 3500rpm+ launches on DRs. I'm right at 440whp/410tq. As soon as I get off this crazy work schedule I'll have the car out and about. Gotta finish that break-in so I can strap my Vortech on it!

 

Like other people say, would not do the LS7 but maybe the LS9X clutch or the McLeod RST

 

I just installed a Monster LT1-S twin disk. Light pedal and no chatter. I'm still in the break in time so can't comment on the performance side yet. I replaced a LS7 clutch due to sticking pedal at high RPM shifts. I'm also running a new stock master, changed it out hoping it would fix the sticking pedal which it didn't. I'm at 450 RWHP and will see road course use.

 

After a few clutch's I'm currently McLeod RST, works exactly as advertised. Light pedal pressure, easy to modulate, shifts clean & crisp @ Hi rpm, no chatter or noise.

I'm 600rw & do not plan to run drag radials, that makes the RST vs RXT easy.

Do some searching into the balance issue depending on your build. Mine is a stroker, so the rotating assemble does not require the balance match. I went with a new flywheel & had the complete ***'y balanced.

 

Thanks, so much for the suggestions, guys. I really appreciate it.

I was at the 1/8 mile track last Friday and during my runs, I did some experimenting, as I was getting some high rpm shifting issues when I was practicing before the track. I was continually botching 2nd or 3rd. That's what made me think it was time to get a clutch. Shifting was above 6700 then.

I discovered that if I shifted around 6100, 1st to 2nd, 6300 2nd to 3rd, I had no problems shifting gears. Will a new clutch allow me to shift at a higher rpm?

 

yes you will be able to shift higher with a new clutch, the stock one sucks in my opinion... as soon as you get a quality clutch in there and all the hydraulics working properly it's amazing how different the shifting will be, it just sucks that you have to go through so much trouble for something that should be done right from the factory

 

So, if I'm reading correctly other than the killer tune by you & the CAI your stock correct?

 

First, let me say I am not qualified to give clutch advice. But I am too tough to let stuff like that slow me down.

However I might be able to add some content, since I had a McLeod RST installed in my stock 03. I also went with the McLeod steel flywheel because the GM flywheel has a shape that will not contact across the entire face of the friction surface of the McLeod, although it is compatible with the GM part.

It has been in the car for a while, enough to develop a slight and light chatter at idol at times. If it bugs me, I will cycle the pedal and it stops. (C6 slave and master)

Price was a top driver in my buying decision, but another factor that went into my buying decision is worth mentioning, for fun.


I was watching an old hot rod tv, or something like that, and they were doing a segment on new products from SEMA featuring McLeod products, might have been the red street twin, it was a good while ago. They did a brief show of the piece, then excitedly went into an interview with old man McLeod, introducing him as one of the pioneers of hot rodding. HE said he was just an engineer that learned early on he had a special knack for power transfer, and just stayed with it. He always wanted just a simple product that worked,and that racers could afford. Said he started using red paint so the guys could see which clutches were still working and which weren't, back in the pits.
I have had good success in the past with products from guys with their names over the door, so when I was in the market , it helped me trust the product, since the entire vette deal was new to me, and I didn't want to screw up the car I just bought with poor parts selection.

Whatever you select, clutch manufacturing is a mature deal, no top secret inside stuff for sale , so whatever you select will work, and hopefully, hit your target needs.

 

Hey....how did you know I tuned it?

I have LS7 manifolds, cats, and LS7 exhaust tapered to fit my stock mufflers. 42 lb injectors.

Going on the bottle soon....

 

Monster LT1-S

Rated at 700 rwhp and will NEVER chatter. We use a C7 pressure plate and adapt it to the C5, it's a flawless setup!

We use stock hydraulics with these units and do not have any issues to 8500 rpm, the Tick is a great unit but it will add ~40% stiffness to any clutch pedal due to the design.

All this and they're currently on sale - clutch assembly and flywheel with all hardware for less than a grand shipped.

 

Can I get a refund? Mine still only has 300 miles so still pretty new. Missed the sale by that much.

I like mine so far but I'm still in the 500 mile break in time so can't say how it will perform under full power. I can say I've been in stop and go traffic and the clutch has done great. No chatter so far. The light flywheel took a bit of getting used to but not a big deal. I have a gravel driveway and that's the only time I have to slip the clutch a lot, pavement it a piece of cake.