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Help with clutch decision!!! Please

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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 09:14 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by cloud 9
Has anyone used the torque tube couplers from Corvette Central lately? I am having a hard time swallowing the 130 dollar price of the factory GM ones. I dont even know if mine are bad but since I'm going to be digging into it. I wanted to have a couple on hand just in case they are.
Depends on the mileage and how it was driven, the rubber becomes hard on the couplers and they'll start to crumble. I would go with some dss poly couplers since you have the 10mm version, I believe the couplers used in most of those kits are bmw couplers. Also dont forget about the torque tube bearings. Another thing, don't overlook price if you could have only two out of cheap, fast, reliable which would they be.
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Old Aug 8, 2016 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by cloud 9
Yes. My brother is a GM tech. And we have access on the weekends at the dealership he works at.
ok good. just remember the devil is in the details. getting everything lined up true and straight is extremely important. best wishes for a good outcome. be sure to update how it goes and ask questions.
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Old Aug 8, 2016 | 10:41 AM
  #23  
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as stated above, check the master cylinder... the chances of a stock replacement clutch making the pedal that stiff seems unlikely to me but an adjustable tick master cylinder can make the pedal quite a bit stiffer... the easiest way to check is to look under the dash, if you see an adjustable turnbuckle at the end of your clutch pedal like the pic below then that is most likely the issue... if you do have one, adjusting it will not affect the pedal stiffness but it is a much easier/cheaper repair than doing a clutch... if you do in fact have a tick they offer a stock bore master cylinder that will not increase pedal stiffness so I would start with that first rather than replacing it with a factory master cylinder

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Old Aug 8, 2016 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by neutron82
as stated above, check the master cylinder... the chances of a stock replacement clutch making the pedal that stiff seems unlikely to me but an adjustable tick master cylinder can make the pedal quite a bit stiffer... the easiest way to check is to look under the dash, if you see an adjustable turnbuckle at the end of your clutch pedal like the pic below then that is most likely the issue... if you do have one, adjusting it will not affect the pedal stiffness but it is a much easier/cheaper repair than doing a clutch... if you do in fact have a tick they offer a stock bore master cylinder that will not increase pedal stiffness so I would start with that first rather than replacing it with a factory master cylinder

I checked tonight. It is not a tick. So what what I can figure is the clutch, pressure plate, and master were changed. Probably by some meathead who didnt know what they were doing. So I have purchased already a GM factory slave, master and a LUK pro gold clutch kit. Also a remote bleeder and 2 new factory GM drive shaft couplers. I only want to do this once. It has a vibration that we can only assume is coming from a misaligned clutch plate done by a hack. Like I said my brother is a GM Master Tech and he is starting to work on a few Vettes. Most of the ones he works on now are garage queens with really low miles. He is getting to know the higher mileage ones now while working on mine. I'll keep posting as we work on it. Thanks to all who have chimed in with tech and opinions. This forum rocks! And I love my Vette!!!
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 05:34 PM
  #25  
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So this weekend I did the clutch in the Vette. Bought a LUK Z06 clutch kit with flywheel. Had it balanced at a local engine shop. 2 New torque tube couplers, factory GM. New clutch master and slave, both factory GM also. Replaced the fluid in tranny and rear diff with Amzoil. And put in my c6 shifter with my C5 ball. What a difference! Drives like a completely different car now and way smoother and more responsive. Glad I finally got this done. Thank you for all of the advice.

Last edited by cloud 9; Sep 19, 2016 at 05:35 PM.
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Old Sep 20, 2016 | 05:10 AM
  #26  
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Any idea what clutch came out of it?
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Old Sep 20, 2016 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Cliff8928
Any idea what clutch came out of it?


It was a kit from O'reilly Auto Parts from what I can figure. I don't think it's bad just was not installed properly. Anyway it has been replaced. The LUK kit I got off of ebay is much nicer!
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Old Sep 21, 2016 | 05:45 AM
  #28  
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The LuK is the OE supplier and the pro gold is the self adjusting factory design, unlike the lesser expensive version you removed.
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Old Sep 21, 2016 | 06:59 PM
  #29  
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Glad I grabbed a set of these before we tore it down.
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Old Oct 14, 2016 | 07:36 PM
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I am going to change my clutch because my slave cylinder is leaking and now the clutch is going - probably the fluid. Anyway the Luk looks like it may be a good one? It is basically the LS7 then? Parts geek with the flywheel is only 245.00. Not going to add much at all in power. Good Choice?
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Old Oct 14, 2016 | 07:38 PM
  #31  
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Looks like couplers should be on my list too? 97 with 65k but old rubber?
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Old Oct 14, 2016 | 08:25 PM
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I went with the ls6 clutch and flywheel. The ls7 flywheel is way heavier , from what I've read and it sucks up power. All I have is exhaust and a dual cone intake filter. I can't afford to do a bunch of upgrades. Plan on fixing a bunch of stuff while you got it apart..cause it's a lot of work. Glad I bought the TT bushings, cause mine were beat as you could see. And pay close attention when disassembling and reassembling. Arrows on the bushings and mark it how it comes apart and make sure it goes back together the same way. I just wanted it to work properly. And now it does.
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