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Head and cam swap done at home would I be able to putt over to the tuner? After the swap it's about 60 mi away. Or would it not stay running at all? It's a pretty aggressive cam over factory
when I did my H/C swap I got a mail order tune from my tuner, then drove it for the dyno street tune. The cost was minimum since I had bought the parts and had it tuned at the same place.
You *might* be able to do it if you leave the stock injectors in and keep your foot out of it. If you already swapped in the larger injectors, go for the mail-order tune to get you to the dyno (thats what I did).
what heads and cam? what that guy said about stock injectors. leave those in, drive to the tuner, swap there. if you dont, it'll run so rich that it'll probably refuse to make it.
i installed and ran to my tuner with an untuned 228/232 585/575 cam (LG G5X1) and ported/polished 243s. it ran surprisingly ok, even with my ford red top injectors, but those arent really that big, either. it did REALLY not like it at low rpms til it warmed up, though. almost like a poorly tuned carb.
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Originally Posted by sean.b
what heads and cam? what that guy said about stock injectors. leave those in, drive to the tuner, swap there. if you dont, it'll run so rich that it'll probably refuse to make it.
i installed and ran to my tuner with an untuned 228/232 585/575 cam (LG G5X1) and ported/polished 243s. it ran surprisingly ok, even with my ford red top injectors, but those arent really that big, either. it did REALLY not like it at low rpms til it warmed up, though. almost like a poorly tuned carb.
my cam is very close to what you have and mine started right up and idled pretty good with no tuning work, the tuner was actually surprised and thought I had drilled out the hole in the throttle plate... when you get done with the install leave the stock injectors in as stated in the above posts and see how the car runs... if it does ok you can probably limp it over to the tuner and swap the new injectors in at that time, just keep your foot out of it obviously... if it doesn't want to run you can either send the pcm out for a mail tune to get it driveable or take the pcm to the tuner and have them adjust it which might be better anyways if they roll the cost of that into your tune so you aren't out an extra ~$120