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I replaced my pads, and only slowly pressed the pads back into the calipers (with the top off the master cylinder, and loaded with dot 4 brake fluid), and nothing else. I had a perfect pedal before replacing the pads, but the brakes suck now and are soft. They are almost dangerous feeling. I have speed bleeders, so I bled them about 6 times, starting with the right rear, as per the manual, while adding brake fluid each time I bled each caliper. Still, the brakes feel soft and are terrible.
The only thing I can think of is when I pushed the pistons back in, something went terribly wrong. I did not bleed the master cylinder, as I can't imagine why any air would've gotten into the master cylinder by simply pressing the calipers back into the caliper bores.
Any thoughts would be great
Thanks
What brake pads are you using, brake fluid? Also how are you bleeding them? When was the brake fluid fully flushed?
Recently I changed out my pads and rotors I also have speed bleeders installed but I find them useless I still used a bleeder bottle with the rubber hose with one end submerged in brake fluid. I also sucked out all the old brake fluid from the reservoir with a syringe and some tube. Filled it up with new ATE Type 200 Dot 4 brakefluid and proceeded to do the brake procedure. Only need one liter of brake fluid to fully flush all four corners on a C5. Also try not to fully depress the brake pedal when bleeding as to not ruin the seals in the brake master cylinder, I use a wooden block to avoid doing this. I went with HPS pads and centric slotted rotors, I also have some HP+ for when I take it out to some autocrossing.
My old rotors to my new.
Bleeder bottle I got off ebay. Its for brakes but I mainly use it for bleeding my clutch fluid.
What brake pads are you using, brake fluid? Also how are you bleeding them? When was the brake fluid fully flushed?
Recently I changed out my pads and rotors I also have speed bleeders installed but I find them useless I still used a bleeder bottle with the rubber hose with one end submerged in brake fluid. I also sucked out all the old brake fluid from the reservoir with a syringe and some tube. Filled it up with new ATE Type 200 Dot 4 brakefluid and proceeded to do the brake procedure. Only need one liter of brake fluid to fully flush all four corners on a C5. Also try not to fully depress the brake pedal when bleeding as to not ruin the seals in the brake master cylinder, I use a wooden block to avoid doing this. I went with HPS pads and centric slotted rotors, I also have some HP+ for when I take it out to some autocrossing.
My old rotors to my new.
I used Hawk pads and dot 4 brake fluid.
My issue is not the braking surface of the pads, its the soft pedal. As I previously stated, i only shoved the pistons back into the caliper. Since i had a perfect pedal prior to the pad replacement, it had to be when i pressed the pistons back into the caliper.
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just checking, but you did pump the pedal a few times after replacing the pads to seat the new ones right?... if so and the pedal is still soft, if you press and hold the pedal does it continue to go to the floor?... hard to believe that air could have got into the system just by pushing the pistons back in the caliper unless you have a bad piston seal, leaking brake line, etc
just checking, but you did pump the pedal a few times after replacing the pads to seat the new ones right?... if so and the pedal is still soft, if you press and hold the pedal does it continue to go to the floor?... hard to believe that air could have got into the system just by pushing the pistons back in the caliper unless you have a bad piston seal, leaking brake line, etc
I generally have to just bleed out the calipers if I change the pads to get the pedal real nice and stiff again. I have heard 20 people say it doesn't work that way, but multiple different cars with new to beat brake systems always work the same for me. I feel its likely a function of being hypersensitive to it more then anything.
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Soft Brake Pedal after changing pads!
that.
