Hi everyone, I drive an 02 z06 car has roughly 91,000 miles on it. I just bought it 3 months ago. Previous owner put a MGW shifter in it. I'll be honest with you guys, I don't really care for it. Third gear synchros went out in tranny. Had tranny rebuilt. I replaced the stock clutch master with a tick performance adjustable one along with a new slave cylinder. The clutch looked good and I did not replace it. I re-installed trans and used MGW's little shifter alignment jig to center the shifter all up. The car drives good most of the time. However the shifts don't all feel the same all the time like I think they should. There's no audible grinding noise I can just feel it's not silky smooth when shifting. I pulled shifter and double checked the adjustment on it and it's spot on. I hear a lot of people praising the c6 z06 shifter, but dang the cheapest one on eBay was $350. Will the c7 shifter fit in a c5? Also does anyone know what the differences are on a c6 z06 shifter vs the standard c6 one? Thanks guys.

 

try this first !!!

 

Pretty sure the C6Z shifter is less than that from Cultrag, check them out here. It's known to be smoo-ooth from what I've read.
I'm actually content with my factory (shortened) C5Z shifter. Nice and tight, not quite notchy (but close).

 

I'm gonna try the antivenom mod thanks for the suggestions guys. For those that have done it, did you like how it shifted with 1 washer or 2?

 

I have the B&M shifter. It's a little stiff, but the factory shifter is way too sloppy, and the throws are ridiculously long. I tried one washer, then went to two. That made it easier to get the shifter into first and reverse.

 

Alrighty thanks

 

I also had one washer in for years, then randomly decided to add another feels even great. I also have a mgw.

 

Internally, the C5 and C6 shifters are the same. I've tried both, and have stripped both down to their component parts and the design is exactly the same. Like Grantv, I am running a cut down C5 shifter. Cost me a $10 die (Amazon) and a new shift **** (Hurst cue ball in my case).

The C6 shift lever has a bend in it that moves the **** rearward some. Be sure that's what you want before you go that way - that's why I ended up back with the C5 unit - I preferred the position of the shift ****.

 

one washer with my mgw feels perfect, I tried 2 but it felt sloppy... do you have the newer mgw with a billet lower box or an older one?

 

I started with one washer then went with two, now with many more miles on the shifter I might go back to just one ?? As of now it shifts like butter and I know just by feel what gear I'm in !!

 

Running 3 washers, like buttah :-) Search Dorman 65277 on Amazon - cheap and quick.

I like the newer B&M shifters too. They have the rubber-isolated stick as does the stock one. No rubber can equal vibration, even buzzing, through the shifter. B&M is $267 at Amazon currently, but show up every once in a while for as little as $168.

 

I have the older version mgw using the original z06 box, with two washers it feels loose when the car is off, when I turn it on it feels precise.


On another note I came across this vid and thread about another method for this mod, but wheres this bolt located on our transmissions



http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-c...cussion-2.html

 

I did a Hurst. Liked the shorter positive feel in all forward gears but had a hard time getting it in reverse. Heard how after ward that it works better if you go from 1st over to Reverse. Also I didn't like the Vibration buzz at certain rpms. So I went back to the stock one. However wanting to improve the stocks feel I bought the Zip performance Urethane mounts. The car only had 48k on it then. Originals looked fine but changing them really helped to "Blueprint" the original. Also put a Hurst **** on it. Doing all this took the vagueness out of it and really helped the stock one a lot. . Still it is a "MAN"ual shift feel even still at only 65K on it. Did not know now about the Anti VEnom detent mod. Going to do the Anti-venom to take out the notchy feel some since I have to do a Slave Cylinder R&R because of it leaking, changing to a LS7 clutch and fixing the 97 crappy Synchro issues updating the internals in the trans . I am however going to do an experiment with the Hurst. I am doing a ghetto rigging on it. Using outdoor flashing tape (nasty sticky) taping on some lead wheel weights at the same area point as the original shifter weights arm weight to reduce NVH vibration buzz. Probably in a few weeks I will have this put together and update you all. BTW I do have C6 shifter too. Put off installing it finding out that ***** are like twice as much to buy than the shifter.

 

Suggest OP do a transmission oil change before anything else...surprised me how much different that tranny feels after. You should be very happy with MGW as most including myself are. I would not blame the shifter for issues.

 

How did you go about shortening the factory shifter?

 

I thought I posted what I did, but can't find it. And I have a new phone, so don't have my pics available.
Essentially;
Remove factory ****, horrible thing it is
Wrap masking tape and a bag to catch shavings
Run a 9/16-18 nut down shaft​​​​​​
Saw about 1 1/4" from top of shaft
Run nut back out to clean threads
Thread on new ****
I purchased a Twistedshifterz 1 7/8" **** with the nut set deep (/high) so the **** sits low.