How to lower C5 Corvette detailed video tutorial. Enjoy! :-)
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 129
Likes: 24
From: Texas
How to lower C5 Corvette detailed video tutorial. Enjoy! :-)
Hello, Just wanted to share to yall a video tutorial I made on how to lower a c5 corvette. Part 1 shows the front, and part 2 shows the rear. Hope this helps! :-) Links below.
(FRONT)
(REAR)
I also have a video on how to run OEM C6 Z06 wheels on a C5, I will link video in seperate thread.
(FRONT)
(REAR)
I also have a video on how to run OEM C6 Z06 wheels on a C5, I will link video in seperate thread.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,003
Likes: 89
From: Indy IN
If you're going to try to tell folks how do do this you should have done your research and told them how to do it properly.
In your video for lowering the front end you don't mention using a piece of wood to protect the spring. Many jacks have a raised edge and nubs to keep them from slipping and this can damage the spring. Not protecting the spring is stupid.
Secondly these cars are old and the bolts can freeze in the spring and ruin the spring if you try to turn it with too much force. Soaking with PB blaster a day or so ahead of doing this is a good idea. You can and many have ruined the spring by using too much force on the spring bolts. Warning the viewer not to go gorilla on these bolts would be a good idea.
On the front springs you are correct in recommending equal turning of the adjustment screws, but they should be turned in equal FULL TURN increments. This will equalize the distortion in the pads and the car will settle out equally and it won't take any time for it to settle.
In the rear you are absolutely wrong in recommending equal thread count of the screws and this is not the correct way to do it. Setting the rear screws to an equal amount will ruin the corner weighting of the car and it will handle differently turning left and right. The factory does it right and these cars are actually pretty close on corner weights as delivered, but the number of threads showing aren't equal to start with. Just as the front you should turn the adjustment screws an equal amount from side to side, but the thread count from side to side will be different and this is expected.
Excessive lowering, and in particular in the rear will lead to bottoming and this pounding will cause the alignment to slip so lowering more than an inch should be avoided.
Finally you don't recommend realigning the car after lowering, which is required if you're changing ride height by more than a half an inch.
If you're going to do all that work to create a video then at least get it right.
In your video for lowering the front end you don't mention using a piece of wood to protect the spring. Many jacks have a raised edge and nubs to keep them from slipping and this can damage the spring. Not protecting the spring is stupid.
Secondly these cars are old and the bolts can freeze in the spring and ruin the spring if you try to turn it with too much force. Soaking with PB blaster a day or so ahead of doing this is a good idea. You can and many have ruined the spring by using too much force on the spring bolts. Warning the viewer not to go gorilla on these bolts would be a good idea.
On the front springs you are correct in recommending equal turning of the adjustment screws, but they should be turned in equal FULL TURN increments. This will equalize the distortion in the pads and the car will settle out equally and it won't take any time for it to settle.
In the rear you are absolutely wrong in recommending equal thread count of the screws and this is not the correct way to do it. Setting the rear screws to an equal amount will ruin the corner weighting of the car and it will handle differently turning left and right. The factory does it right and these cars are actually pretty close on corner weights as delivered, but the number of threads showing aren't equal to start with. Just as the front you should turn the adjustment screws an equal amount from side to side, but the thread count from side to side will be different and this is expected.
Excessive lowering, and in particular in the rear will lead to bottoming and this pounding will cause the alignment to slip so lowering more than an inch should be avoided.
Finally you don't recommend realigning the car after lowering, which is required if you're changing ride height by more than a half an inch.
If you're going to do all that work to create a video then at least get it right.
Last edited by Solofast; Aug 20, 2016 at 08:45 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 129
Likes: 24
From: Texas
If you're going to try to tell folks how do do this you should have done your research and told them how to do it properly.
In your video for lowering the front end you don't mention using a piece of wood to protect the spring. Many jacks have a raised edge and nubs to keep them from slipping and this can damage the spring. Not protecting the spring is stupid.
Secondly these cars are old and the bolts can freeze in the spring and ruin the spring if you try to turn it with too much force. Soaking with PB blaster a day or so ahead of doing this is a good idea. You can and many have ruined the spring by using too much force on the spring bolts. Warning the viewer not to go gorilla on these bolts would be a good idea.
On the front springs you are correct in recommending equal turning of the adjustment screws, but they should be turned in equal FULL TURN increments. This will equalize the distortion in the pads and the car will settle out equally and it won't take any time for it to settle.
In the rear you are absolutely wrong in recommending equal thread count of the screws and this is not the correct way to do it. Setting the rear screws to an equal amount will ruin the corner weighting of the car and it will handle differently turning left and right. The factory does it right and these cars are actually pretty close on corner weights as delivered, but the number of threads showing aren't equal to start with. Just as the front you should turn the adjustment screws an equal amount from side to side, but the thread count from side to side will be different and this is expected.
Excessive lowering, and in particular in the rear will lead to bottoming and this pounding will cause the alignment to slip so lowering more than an inch should be avoided.
Finally you don't recommend realigning the car after lowering, which is required if you're changing ride height by more than a half an inch.
If you're going to do all that work to create a video then at least get it right.
In your video for lowering the front end you don't mention using a piece of wood to protect the spring. Many jacks have a raised edge and nubs to keep them from slipping and this can damage the spring. Not protecting the spring is stupid.
Secondly these cars are old and the bolts can freeze in the spring and ruin the spring if you try to turn it with too much force. Soaking with PB blaster a day or so ahead of doing this is a good idea. You can and many have ruined the spring by using too much force on the spring bolts. Warning the viewer not to go gorilla on these bolts would be a good idea.
On the front springs you are correct in recommending equal turning of the adjustment screws, but they should be turned in equal FULL TURN increments. This will equalize the distortion in the pads and the car will settle out equally and it won't take any time for it to settle.
In the rear you are absolutely wrong in recommending equal thread count of the screws and this is not the correct way to do it. Setting the rear screws to an equal amount will ruin the corner weighting of the car and it will handle differently turning left and right. The factory does it right and these cars are actually pretty close on corner weights as delivered, but the number of threads showing aren't equal to start with. Just as the front you should turn the adjustment screws an equal amount from side to side, but the thread count from side to side will be different and this is expected.
Excessive lowering, and in particular in the rear will lead to bottoming and this pounding will cause the alignment to slip so lowering more than an inch should be avoided.
Finally you don't recommend realigning the car after lowering, which is required if you're changing ride height by more than a half an inch.
If you're going to do all that work to create a video then at least get it right.
Done this method a numerous amount of times. Never been close to breaking anything... Nor have I had problems with alignment, and that is that I live here in S.A Texas where the streets are pothole special and alignment is a must check.
But sure, I mean whatever makes you happy. As the titles say its a "DIY" not a "DIMW". So yup feel free to modify tutorial as you wish.
Thanks for your feedback, See ya.
