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so while I was replacing shocks I noticed both rear tie rod boots were torn (its part #5 on diagram below). I've searched the forum but i don't see any information on how hard it is to replace them. I plan on replacing brake pads in a few weeks and would like to do this at same time. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
David
Last edited by sgmz06; Aug 26, 2016 at 01:26 AM.
Reason: can you please move to tech? I posted in wrong location.
Lone star- thanks for the link. That seems easier to change out then the whole thing.
Mark- yes. The boot is torn so my assumption is the joint is bad as well. To be perfectly honest I had no idea what the part was called till I looked it up so if I'm way off base I apologize.
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As long as the joint is not toast and you only have a torn boot, that's the easiest (and cheapest) way to go. If however, there's signs of grease that has been leaking, or joint contamination, etc, I'd go ahead and replace the outer tie rod end since there's no way to re-grease the OE TRs. No zerks.
Tip: if you do get new TRs, I'd still get the Energy Suspension boots. They're inexpensive and are of a more durable material than OE rubber.
HTH
gimp- yes. I normally go on base and use the auto craft center. It has lifts and the tools needed to do most repairs.
Lionel- one of my worries was after repair I'd need a alignment. I wasn't sure since its a back tire wether I need that.
FRC- I probably just do the entire outer TR. I'll make sure i get the Energy Suspension boots. If the entire TR is toast would it make an annoying clicking sound?
I've read that if i use ceramic brake pads with stock rotors the squeal will be unbearable. Do you have any experience with this? This is the part number I'm looking at for the rears. ACDelco 17D732CH. Someone here in Honolulu is selling a pair new in box for $25.
Always want an alignment after replacing anything to do with tie rods etc. Pretty much half the suspension is like that - replace it, get an alignment.
Tie rod ends come with the boot and joint. That doesn't look terrible - just your usual age issues. Replace it, obviously. And see if you can't get a castle nut setup on there; joints should usually have a castle nut, not a normal nut.
And see if you can't get a castle nut setup on there; joints should usually have a castle nut, not a normal nut.
That's not a "Normal Nut" it's actually a Lock nut. It's top is slightly out of round so as you tighten it ( and trust me, it gets harder to turn as you get closer to the top )the compression keeps it from backing off. Almost the same as a Nylon Lock Nut.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
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Originally Posted by SG Lou
That's not a "Normal Nut" it's actually a Lock nut. It's top is slightly out of round so as you tighten it ( and trust me, it gets harder to turn as you get closer to the top )the compression keeps it from backing off. Almost the same as a Nylon Lock Nut.
Definitely would never use a Nylock nut there anyway unless it was just temporary. Brakes can radiate a lot of heat.
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Is this a DIY project? Pic Added
(its part #5 on diagram below). I've searched the forum but i don't see any information on how hard it is to replace them. I plan on replacing brake pads in a few weeks and would like to do this at same time. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 
Definitely would never use a Nylock nut there anyway unless it was just temporary. Brakes can radiate a lot of heat.
