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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 07:04 PM
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Default Suspension renovation

My C5 is a 1997 with 139k miles on it. It used to be a daily driver but for the past year and a half it gets about 2,000 miles per year.

It needs some TLC and I have never changed the shocks in the 10 1/2 years I have owned it. In fact, I have not done anything underneath it except changes the tires, brakes, mufflers and oil.

I need to replace the steering rack. I know the C6 Z06 shock swap is popular. What else needs to be done when the C5 gets that old? Are there a bunch of rubber bushings that fatigue with age?

Thank you.
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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 07:11 PM
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sway bar end links, and bushings that mount the bar
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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 08:06 PM
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I'd definitely recommend the C6 Z06 shocks. I have them on my 2000 FRC in combination with Toyo R888 tires and the handling is great.


Also seriously considering doing all the ball joints (2 on each wheel) while you're in there. Not a fun or easy job unfortunately.
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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffreyDurbin
My C5 is a 1997 with 139k miles on it. It used to be a daily driver but for the past year and a half it gets about 2,000 miles per year.

It needs some TLC and I have never changed the shocks in the 10 1/2 years I have owned it. In fact, I have not done anything underneath it except changes the tires, brakes, mufflers and oil.

I need to replace the steering rack. I know the C6 Z06 shock swap is popular. What else needs to be done when the C5 gets that old? Are there a bunch of rubber bushings that fatigue with age?

Thank you.
Have a trusted Corvette shop go through the suspension. They can check ball joints, tie rods and toe links inner and outer, end links can be upgraded to the metal ones and shocks can be upgraded to the C6 Z06 as well as sway bars and sway bar bushings. The rubber bushings in the control arms can wear and deteriorate over time, unfortunately, they are fused/molded to the control arms and are not sold separately. Some members have removed them and replaced them with poly or Delrin bushings but this is a very labor intensive job and many have found the ride too harsh or the bushing squeak. Others with experience with them can comment further. You should also check the rear half shafts to ensure the boots are intact.
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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 11:37 PM
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check for leaky seals where the CV half shafts enter the differential. If they were never changed I'm guessing you have some leakage and build up. Seals are an easy and inexpensive fix....but the shafts have to be removed. If you do tie rod ends, ball joints, or even shocks you're already in there and getting the shaft out isn't a much more effort.


Are you doing this yourself or a shop?
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 11:53 AM
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I have a buddy in Los Angeles who retired from the CA Army National Guard in January and he is an excellent mechanic. He restored his 1969 Charger from a $750 barn find to a fantastic resto mod. We have done a number of jobs ourselves on various weekends but now that he is retired I have proposed that I pay him for doing much more work on a sustained basis.

I have wanted to do the shocks for a while and like you said as long as we are ripping apart some of the bits down there we might as well get really dirty and do it all.

The AC compressor and the steering rack need to be replaced. The left fender and front bumper cover need to be resprayed and the entire car needs a buff and polish afterwards. (I have a body shop in mind for that work.)

But when all is said and done I should basically have a new 1997 C5.
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 03:24 PM
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I changed out the shocks and bars on my 04, didn't see that much of a change so I went to coil overs all around. If you intend to keep the car I would definitely go with coil overs. Much more of an improvement in handling and ride.
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 07:42 PM
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I just got done doing a suspension bushing kit (all poly) on my own car. I also get to see an inordinate number of C5 suspension parts, control arms and such. I have yet to see a rubber bushing that needed anything. My car had 104K on it when I did mine and to be honest if it were not for the fact that i had to destroy them to get the steel bushings out, I'd have put em back in. I seriously contemplated not doing the rear of the car because I don't like the extra vibration noise the poly kit adds to the cabin.

Ball joints cost a fortune but if you have a press and some tubing to use as a mandrel, they're an easy replacement. I would only do the ones that need replaced. Mine were more about replacing the rubber boots than it was the ball joints themselves. I did at least one that I should not have. I only replaced 3 of the 8. Fwiw, they are the same front and rear. Only uppers are different from lowers.

The spring stops do wear out. They're not nearly so expensive. I got sway bar end links from Autozone fairly cheap.

Not only was that bushing job a waste of time, it really wasn't fun. I have a machine shop and it took every bit of 12 hours to get them in there. What a pita.

Last edited by K-Spaz; Oct 11, 2016 at 07:44 PM.
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 08:26 PM
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Does your 97 have the select ride? These were available only in the 97 and were removed in 98.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 08:59 PM
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I recommend moog ball joints... have zerk fittings and cross drilled with castle nuts!
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by popshumphrey
Does your 97 have the select ride? These were available only in the 97 and were removed in 98.
Yes.
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffreyDurbin
Yes.
Make sure you study shock replacement. If you just change the shocks then codes will kick up. There are parts you can buy to over ride the select ride but be careful. This ride system is what makes the 97 unique.
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 09:55 PM
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Honestly on a 97 do everything but the shocks. Do sway bar bushings the sway bar ties and you can do the steering but the shocks on a 97 are a epically beast.
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