Stock LS1 97, Which Clutch
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Stock LS1 97, Which Clutch
I feel a little wimpy while trying to research clutch's. Seems everyone is - Well I am going to go to 600hp etc. What about us guys that want to drive theirs daily? Anyway I have read that a LS7 is a good choice but then they say they are like 12lbs heavier. So would an LS6 work better? Being I have 50hp and torque less than a C6. Looks to be lighter? I don't want to add driveline weight fearing loss in performance. But I can't find anyone to verify this. Link to what I am thinking:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12570806
LUK has 3 different clutches for our cars and are reasonable. They are the OEM LS1, OEM for 2005 up LS2 and the LS7 Pro Gold unit. I have looked at the Tick Monster Stage 1 about 640.00 without Slave which I need and why I am doing this.
So any have a comparison between the LS6 and the LS7 clutches? I am not going to modify this car much. I do have a K&N with a Vararam tube. But that is it. The most later would be a Cat Back that we all know adds nothing much but sound.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12570806
LUK has 3 different clutches for our cars and are reasonable. They are the OEM LS1, OEM for 2005 up LS2 and the LS7 Pro Gold unit. I have looked at the Tick Monster Stage 1 about 640.00 without Slave which I need and why I am doing this.
So any have a comparison between the LS6 and the LS7 clutches? I am not going to modify this car much. I do have a K&N with a Vararam tube. But that is it. The most later would be a Cat Back that we all know adds nothing much but sound.
Last edited by jarnold; Oct 18, 2016 at 05:46 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: pueblo co
if you have a stock ls1 1997 then you have more then 50 hp less then a c6....and if i were you i would go with a stock ls6 clutch kit and call it a day....new slave cylinder...clutch/flywheel combo..get a remote bleeder kit...and replace your pilot bearing while your in there as well
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: SoCal California
I have a 99 Frc and put a Ls6 clutch assembly in it and could not be happier. Also replaced the pilot bearing, slave cylinder, rear main seal, and installed a remote bleeder and replaced the clutch master cylinder.Got rid of the sticking clutch pedal. Car is stock except for a K&N air filter and my daily driver. The link you posted is clutch I put in and got it from Summit.
Last edited by Ricks99FRC; Oct 19, 2016 at 10:48 AM.
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Your C6 in a C5 Clutch
I have a 99 Frc and put a Ls6 clutch assembly in it and could not be happier. Also replaced the pilot bearing, slave cylinder, rear main seal, and installed a remote bleeder and replaced the clutch master cylinder.Got rid of the sticking clutch pedal. Car is stock except for a K&D air filter and my daily driver. The link you posted is clutch I put in and got it from Summit.
Also with my research on these I noticed the LUK clutch brand apparently is the OEM source. Here are the ones I have been looking at>
Which did yours look like? I am probably going to go with the C6 2005 or to be safe, the one you bought, but if the parts geek is the same we are talking 200.00 less.
C6 2005
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...lutch_kit.html
C5 2004 - http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...tch_kit.htmlor
THIS IS A GREAT HELP! THANKS!
Last edited by jarnold; Oct 19, 2016 at 12:08 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: SoCal California
I used the 12570806 from Summit.The pedal was a little stiffer but not that bad even in traffic. I liked the idea of not having to worry about having to make sure the the assembly was balanced. The weight of the assembly was about the same as the stock one I took out.
Last edited by Ricks99FRC; Oct 19, 2016 at 10:31 AM.
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Hot Balance.
I used the 12570806 from Summit.The pedal was a little stiffer but not that bad even in traffic. I liked the idea of not having to worry about having to make sure the the assembly was balanced. The weight of the assembly was about the same as the stock one I took out.
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It is a Luk
Rick, I called Luk and the gentleman told me that the clutch you bought is actually made by Luk for GM. So Parts Geek has it and the flywheel for like 315.00 versus Summits for 460.00 or so. I ask if their Pro Gold is the GM LS7 and it is their version but they are not the OEM on it. That is how it works in the OEM game. Not all components are bought from the same manufacturer. Specs are sent out to competing companies and whoever can do it for the price and turnaround is who wins the bid. I know this being sales for my entire adult life dealing with the likes of these guys.
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Verdad Gallardo
Racer
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From: Virginia Beach VA
Regardless of your answer, do yourself a favor and somehow mark the orientation of the flywheel to the crank BEFORE you take it off/have a shop remove it. If someone tells you "oh that's stupid, it can only go on one way, blah blah blah". Well they're wrong. Yes, there is a "7th" location hole, but the bolt pattern is a symmetrical 6 hole pattern. You can mount the flywheel in 6 different orientations. And yes, sometimes they were mounted at the factory in an orientation OTHER than the "7th" holes lining up.
Regardless of what you do or how you do it, do yourself a favor and HANG ON to your original flywheel AND pressure plate until AFTER you are satisfied with the new clutch swap and are happy with no vibrations.
If you have a shop or dealership do the job, expect that they won't believe any of this.