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Kind of disappointed that you didn't solder those connections...I never had good luck with crimps of that variety.
I considered soldering for a while. I wanted to do only the "best" for this job. I've come to the conclusion that as long as the crimp is done right, with the right tool meant for crimping, it wont really make a difference. Both methods have the same goal and can produce the same result.
I bought a nice crimping tool. I also took my time to make sure the connections were done right.
Coming apart was my main concern. I used some practice wire and crimped it. Pulled on it, tugged on it, twisted it, rolled it, pulled on it hard multiple times again. My crimp held. I also used adhesive lined shrink tube with a little extra than normal on each side past the connection. Not only will it provide weatherproofing, but it will also add some structure and strength to the connection.
If the crimp is done right, the electrical connection is good as well. I'm fully confident in my decision to use crimp connectors rather then solder.
The three drawn lines are the thickness of the frame section they'll mount to (2"). Middle line being the center where the bolt will run through. I'm going to chop the tube at the line to the left for a total length of 8 1/4".
That's the first kit I found when I began to search for C5.R style aux lights. But, for me they just weren't right. Too small at least. The lights I've purchased are the same the C5.R used. Plus I'm a tinkerer and a I love a total DIY project.
I'll be out about the same amount of money their kit costs. Maybe a little more because I had to buy some tools I didn't have. I'll have far superior lighting also...
UPDATE: I attempted to install the light mount and my first attempt was a failure. It's going to be harder than I had anticipated to get the mount centered and spaced right on the frame.
The sheet the lights mount to is also too large.
You might want to remove the bumper cover although i am not sure what is involved your work looks top notch though I would love a copy of your template when you're done. Also will these be switched lights like to a foglight type switch or just and on with highbeams?
You might want to remove the bumper cover although i am not sure what is involved your work looks top notch though I would love a copy of your template when you're done. Also will these be switched lights like to a foglight type switch or just and on with highbeams?
I removed the cover for sure. I've taken this down time to rethink the mount. I don't want another failed attempt again! They'll be switched with the high beams, but I'm adding a switch on the ground for the relay so I can shut the aux lights off if necessary.
I'm back at it! I'll be keeping the thread up to date as I go.
Sorry for the delay all. Took time to re assess my design and my plan. I'm back at it, and will be starting work on it again within the next week. I'll keep the thread updated.
UPDATE: I've decided to create a mount that is adjustable and can be taken apart for adjustments to the square tubing. This way I can get the perfect length forward, into the open space in the bumper.
I've found it difficult to measure the correct length of the T's combined with how far the lights stick out from the mount. Once they're welded up, they're either right or wrong. Thus the adjustable practice mount. I'll be building it this weekend, as well as getting a new light mounting plate made up. Sorry for the delays! I've not given up on this project and I'm even more eager than anyone to get it finished.
Once it's done and all of the measurements are recorded, this would be easy to duplicate.
