Hi all,

Currently have P0343 high voltage on cam sensor.

We attempted to swap the A and C wiring to the sensor, and received P0342 (low voltage).


This is a brand new build - no miles. I would doubt the CAM bolts are loose.

Would an X4 CAM gear give P0343? The builder put a x24 reluctor on the crank and used an LS1 timing chain (JP5618T), and it was very clear the engine was going into a C5 Corvette.

Anyways - my mechanic spoke to ECS (flashed my PCM) and now I am shipping the PCM back to ECS as there could be a fault within the PCM?

None of my research has this being a solution... but maybe I am missing something.

Issues that I've found researching:
CAM bolts are backing out.
Bad CAM sensor
Crossed A / C wiring to CAM sensor
x4 CAM gear / need x1 CAM for LS1 PCM

Thanks all. I guess I'll have a pretty good write up after this build ALL THE PROBLEMS!

 

The more I read the less I understand this issue >.>

Even without the CAM sensor hooked up - the car should run, although rough (and might take longer to start)

Theft deterrent is controlled by the BCM, not PCM - how would tuning the PCM change how the anti theft works?

Have fuel/spark/air. - Car will start up for a split second then shut off.

 

I would check out the wiring first. You could have damaged the signal wire doing the swap.

I also read one thread where the sensor was shimmed out .030" and it fixed the problem. That should be fairly easy to do vs some of your other options.

 

We will recheck the front sensor and wiring.

Shouldn't the engine start with p0343? I've read it would usually take longer.

 

The trouble shooting procedure states that only the crank sensor is needed to start but I don't know what would happen if for example, the PCM B+ is shorted to the sensor signal input. The pdf I attached to the previous post is the troubleshooting procedure for P0343. You can do most of it with a meter and test light.

 

I'll look to see if it's shorted.
If I unplug the cam sensor maybe then it will start?
Hmm

 

Maybe.
If you did have a short it would depend where it was, before or after the connector.

Do your wiring checks and if you don't find anything, try shimming the sensor. If you look at the troubleshooting procedure in the Diagnostic Aids section you will see that contact between the cam reluctor and sensor is one of the things to check.

 

Have you done the crank sensor relearn procedure? You will need to find someone local with a Tech2 who is willing to help if you don't have one.

"The CKP system variation learn procedure is also required when the following service procedures have been performed, regardless of whether DTC P0315 is set:
An engine replacement
A PCM replacement
A harmonic balancer replacement
A crankshaft replacement
A CKP sensor replacement
Any engine repairs which disturb the crankshaft to CKP sensor relationship"

 

I am not sure if this was done yet - I'll ask my mechanic.

I've already shipped off my PCM back to ECS for re-tune (again). Hopefully that helps. However my spare PCM just arrived, too bad it doesn't have a flash appropriate to the mods.

For the CAM sensor... if it were grounding, wouldn't I be getting p0343 all the time? When we swapped the A/C wires - it changed to low voltage. (This could mean it needs to be shimmed, or perhaps a 4x cam is installed)

This project is such a headache.

 

I am not saying a wiring problem is the cause of your problem but I would hate to pull the timing cover off only to find out later I had a bad wiring connection.
It could be many things, including the things you mention. Have you done any of the checks listed in the diagnostic procedure?

 

Something as simple as a wire that got cut and is grounding out can be causing your issue. Below is a link of where I helped someone who did an ls3 swap troubleshoot their ground short issue. Good luck.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...questions.html

 

Looking into wiring / sensor issues.

Good news, the car starts. Was VATS that prevented the start up, had the tuner remove it and wualallalal! SHE RUNS!

 

Well that's good news.

Was there a reason you had the VATS deleted rather than doing a relearn?

Here is the relearn procedure in case someone else doing this swap needs the information.

Programming Theft Deterrent System Components


Important

The body control module (BCM) must be programmed with the proper RPO configurations before performing learn procedures. Refer to Body Control Module (BCM) Programming/RPO Configuration .
If replacing the BCM with a GM Service Parts Operations (SPO) replacement part, the module will learn the passkey data code immediately. The existing PCM however, must learn the new fuel continue password when the BCM is replaced.
If replacing a PCM with a GM Service Parts Operations (SPO) replacement part, after programming, these modules will learn the incoming fuel continue password immediately upon receipt of a password message. Once a password message is received, and a password is learned, a learn procedure must be performed to change this password again. A PCM which has been previously installed in another vehicle will have learned the other vehicle's fuel continue password and will require a learn procedure after programming to learn the current vehicle's password.
Conditions

Use these procedures after replacing:
BCM
PCM

10 Minute Learn Procedure

Tools Required
Tech 2
Techline terminal with current SPS (Service Programming System) software
Connect the Tech 2 to the vehicle.
Select "Request Information" under "Service Programming".
Disconnect the Tech 2 from the vehicle and connect it to a Techline terminal.
On the Techline terminal, select "Theft Module Re-Learn" under "Service Programming".
Disconnect the Tech 2 from the Techline terminal and connect it to the vehicle.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Select "VTD Re-Learn" under "Service Programming".
Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF (the vehicle is now ready to relearn the password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK).
Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.
Start the engine (the vehicle has now learned the password).
With the Tech 2 (scan tool), clear any DTCs.

30 Minute Learn Procedure

Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.
Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes (the vehicle is now ready to relearn the password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK).

Important

The vehicle learns the password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.

Start the engine (the vehicle has now learned the password).
With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if needed (history DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles).

 

Greg,

Thanks Had no idea we needed to do this, guess I'll use it for the future!


We looked at the wiring.. no issues.. we swapped to a suggested cam sensor for 05-07GTO - no change. still high/low voltage errors when we swap A/C cables.

I'm thinking we either need to shim the sensor, or it has a 4x cam wheel installed.

 

Here is some good info. This is an LS2 swap into LS1 vehicle.
I'm not sure how useful this is to you but it may help someone doing this swap down the road.

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...-in-an-LS1-car

Here is another good How To thread. It is for an F body but much of it would apply to a Y body car as well.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125123

I don't know if this is possible or not but when you have the cam sensor out, can you see if the cam gear is 1X or 4X. I think you can buy a USB boroscope to plug into a laptop or Andriod device relatively cheaply on Amazon. Vettenuts posted a link to one recently . Don't remember what thread it was. That would beat tearing it apart to see.

 

Thanks for the great idea Greg, I don't know if the bore scope will fit but I bought one and will try .

 

I was thinking that it doesn't actually have to fit in the hole as long as you can see the high points on the cam gear that trigger the sensor. Maybe pull the plugs so you can turn over the engine by hand. The two gears are different enough that it shouldn't be too hard to tell.

I don't know if there is a spec for how close the sensor should be to the high points on the cam gear, but if there is, you can measure from the high point on the cam gear to the outside of the timing cover. with that info and a measurement on the sensor you should be able to position the sensor for ideal spacing.

 

Correct, on Monday i'm having the initial oil change to another fill of break in fluid, we will investigate the cam wheel then.

Dyno tuning is scheduled for the 21st.



She is LOUD. Holy wow!

 

Make any progress?

 

I have not. I dropped the car off for tuning. Will dig into the CAM sensor at the same time I dig into the AC issues. Not high priority for me, it seems the CAM sensor is only used when starting.

Other issues are high priority after I get it back from tuning... like my oil pressure.

Thanks for checkin in Greg, appreciate the help. will post if /when i find a resolution