BMR sway bars
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,122
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BMR sway bars
I just got mine today and
1) the zinc finish way pitted and incomplete ( had to sand and paint )
2) they are made by ADDCO ( the instruction sheets : 1 had an ADDCO header the other had it cut off )
3) the end links use regular nuts ( gotta' go buy poly-locks)
4) has good heim joints
Hope to install in 1-2 days
Stay tuned......
1) the zinc finish way pitted and incomplete ( had to sand and paint )
2) they are made by ADDCO ( the instruction sheets : 1 had an ADDCO header the other had it cut off )
3) the end links use regular nuts ( gotta' go buy poly-locks)
4) has good heim joints
Hope to install in 1-2 days
Stay tuned......
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,122
Likes: 0
Re: BMR sway bars (nevadacoin)
OK , got them installed.
Install is simple with air tools but I'd hate to do it with out them ( too lazy).
One problem was that the rear bar ends were drilled offset and the wrong size. I had to drill and center as best as I could with a 1/2 inch drill bit and my drill press.
I bought 1/2" coarse poly-locks beforehand (8) and would not do it without them. Lock washers suck. Grade 8 bolts are provided.
You can leave the wheels on when you swap the bars ( contrary to the chevy manual ) but you will have to leave the steering unlocked so you can turn the wheels to get at the control arm / sway bar connection bolts.
I connected the link ends first then the frame mounts.
Tips:
1) Make sure the upper rear bar bolts both point to the rear so the upper bolts won't hit the tie rods.
2) Screw down heims all the way down ( shortest ) before you install ( all 4 ).
3) Have male heims on the bottom.
4) Pay to have them powder-coated.
5) look at the old bar set-up before removing and remember how the links mount
Now for the good stuff.
The car handles flat as a pancake. Very little body roll. Almost none.
Car has a slight push going into slow corners but more than makes up for that in fast sweepers.
Ride is relatively unchanged in straight-aways (some complain about truck like ride with stiff bars).
No klunks or thumps either ( never could figure out why others have problems with that ).
All in all :cool: :yesnod: :)
Install is simple with air tools but I'd hate to do it with out them ( too lazy).
One problem was that the rear bar ends were drilled offset and the wrong size. I had to drill and center as best as I could with a 1/2 inch drill bit and my drill press.
I bought 1/2" coarse poly-locks beforehand (8) and would not do it without them. Lock washers suck. Grade 8 bolts are provided.
You can leave the wheels on when you swap the bars ( contrary to the chevy manual ) but you will have to leave the steering unlocked so you can turn the wheels to get at the control arm / sway bar connection bolts.
I connected the link ends first then the frame mounts.
Tips:
1) Make sure the upper rear bar bolts both point to the rear so the upper bolts won't hit the tie rods.
2) Screw down heims all the way down ( shortest ) before you install ( all 4 ).
3) Have male heims on the bottom.
4) Pay to have them powder-coated.
5) look at the old bar set-up before removing and remember how the links mount
Now for the good stuff.
The car handles flat as a pancake. Very little body roll. Almost none.
Car has a slight push going into slow corners but more than makes up for that in fast sweepers.
Ride is relatively unchanged in straight-aways (some complain about truck like ride with stiff bars).
No klunks or thumps either ( never could figure out why others have problems with that ).
All in all :cool: :yesnod: :)
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 824
Likes: 0
Re: BMR sway bars (MRWHOOPPEE)
I was running the Addco 1.25" front bar Z06 autox car, but have since changed to a slightly smaller custom bar. In the SCCA Stock class we are only allowed to change the front bar, but Addco does offer a matching rear bar.
The zinc finish on my Addco bar was great; you should have made them replace it. The front bar with adjustable spherical endlinks, urethane bushings, & Grade 8 fasteners was a great deal from a non-CF vendor; $179 complete + shipping.
They do supply a regular bolt/nut arrangement with both a flat and lock washer. I never had a problem with them and they easier to deal with for removal/installation. Be sure to put the bolt throuigh the endlink, then the flat washer, insert through the bar end, slide on the lock washer, and then the nut; the instructions don't really tell you this. If you use a nylok nut I would recommend putting another grade 8 flat washer between it and the bar. The hardened washers protect the softer bar end.
I was just quoted $30/pair (qty 2) for replacement adjustable spherical endlinks (for spares) from a non-CF vendor, that's a killer deal. They can be used on front or rear (except where prohibited by racing rules). You'll either need to supply your own fastener hardware or order it with the links, should be minimal cost. So far the original spherical endlinks are holding up well, no clunking yet.
Mark
The zinc finish on my Addco bar was great; you should have made them replace it. The front bar with adjustable spherical endlinks, urethane bushings, & Grade 8 fasteners was a great deal from a non-CF vendor; $179 complete + shipping.
They do supply a regular bolt/nut arrangement with both a flat and lock washer. I never had a problem with them and they easier to deal with for removal/installation. Be sure to put the bolt throuigh the endlink, then the flat washer, insert through the bar end, slide on the lock washer, and then the nut; the instructions don't really tell you this. If you use a nylok nut I would recommend putting another grade 8 flat washer between it and the bar. The hardened washers protect the softer bar end.
I was just quoted $30/pair (qty 2) for replacement adjustable spherical endlinks (for spares) from a non-CF vendor, that's a killer deal. They can be used on front or rear (except where prohibited by racing rules). You'll either need to supply your own fastener hardware or order it with the links, should be minimal cost. So far the original spherical endlinks are holding up well, no clunking yet.
Mark
