Clutch pedal on floor
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Advanced
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 82
Likes: 1
From: Ocala Fl
Clutch pedal on floor
Had the old clutch changed (clutch master and slave), all of it new. Clutch works fine until I get it up to about approx. 5000 rpm , then I feel like it wants to stay on the floor. Then it won't shift when it is on the floor. Just wondering if the clutch PP is to week ? Engine had some work done to it , about 5oo hp. Any info would be helpful.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 535
Likes: 92
From: Raleigh NC
Yea this a Frequent problem. And typically shows up when you've added horsepower.
I changed to the Tick clutch master cylinder. Nice unit but didn't fix the problem.
I also bought the Lingenfelter clutch pedal return spring, as some had suggested the PP springs might be getting bound. Again, did not solve the issue and makes your clutch pedal stiffer.
Keeping the clutch fluid clean is important, but still not a lasting solution.
The best explanation/theory I've read is that with the added hp there can be a slight amount of clutch slippage and that creates a tremendous amount of heat right at the slave cylinder and it's boiling the clutch fluid. Thus you lose hydraulic pressure and can't shift gears. And moments later, the fluid cools and you get pressure back. The most common solution seems to be a new upgraded clutch. I'm planning to do a twin disc and hope that solves it. Be sure to replace the slave cylinder and install a speed bleeder while you're doing the clutch.
I changed to the Tick clutch master cylinder. Nice unit but didn't fix the problem.
I also bought the Lingenfelter clutch pedal return spring, as some had suggested the PP springs might be getting bound. Again, did not solve the issue and makes your clutch pedal stiffer.
Keeping the clutch fluid clean is important, but still not a lasting solution.
The best explanation/theory I've read is that with the added hp there can be a slight amount of clutch slippage and that creates a tremendous amount of heat right at the slave cylinder and it's boiling the clutch fluid. Thus you lose hydraulic pressure and can't shift gears. And moments later, the fluid cools and you get pressure back. The most common solution seems to be a new upgraded clutch. I'm planning to do a twin disc and hope that solves it. Be sure to replace the slave cylinder and install a speed bleeder while you're doing the clutch.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 535
Likes: 92
From: Raleigh NC
The Tick master didn't bother me too much, and I've even gotten used to the LPE return spring, though I'll likely ditch that when I change the clutch.
How do you like the RXT clutch? I'm still shopping but was also looking at the Monster LT1-S dual disc clutch.
How do you like the RXT clutch? I'm still shopping but was also looking at the Monster LT1-S dual disc clutch.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,532
Likes: 79
From: pueblo co
i am over 630 rwhp on my 03 z06 and running a ls7 clutch kit with tick adjustable master and new OEM slave ..and the tick is awesome once you bleed and adjust it correctly i like it because its off and on no feathering the clutch like the stock setup would do..
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,699
Likes: 147
Feels like stock pedal which is what I wanted.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,049
Likes: 316
From: USA
LS7 setup for a cheap solution that should work well.
Twin disk will be a little more expensive but holds more power and shift 'better' at high rpm
No need for tick MC in my opnion
I have a the monster LT1-S which is a C7 stock twin disc rated for 700hp. Drives great, only difference I noticed was the engagement window is smaller, a little more on/off, but this is how all twins are.
Twin disk will be a little more expensive but holds more power and shift 'better' at high rpm
No need for tick MC in my opnion
I have a the monster LT1-S which is a C7 stock twin disc rated for 700hp. Drives great, only difference I noticed was the engagement window is smaller, a little more on/off, but this is how all twins are.
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Joined: Dec 2010
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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what clutch are you using?... if you replaced it with another stock one that was a mistake unfortunately... you can try the tick master since it's an easier and cheaper solution but if that doesn't work then you need to put a better clutch in the car
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Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 535
Likes: 92
From: Raleigh NC
LS7 setup for a cheap solution that should work well.
Twin disk will be a little more expensive but holds more power and shift 'better' at high rpm
No need for tick MC in my opnion
I have a the monster LT1-S which is a C7 stock twin disc rated for 700hp. Drives great, only difference I noticed was the engagement window is smaller, a little more on/off, but this is how all twins are.
Twin disk will be a little more expensive but holds more power and shift 'better' at high rpm
No need for tick MC in my opnion
I have a the monster LT1-S which is a C7 stock twin disc rated for 700hp. Drives great, only difference I noticed was the engagement window is smaller, a little more on/off, but this is how all twins are.
My track buddy has an E36 BMW with an LS1/t56 swap. First weekend out he developed the same clutch pedal issue I have. He has the monster stage 2 single disc clutch. He ends up drilling some ventilation holes in the bell housing to get some air flow in and cool the slave cylinder. So far that has worked for him, and he tracks the car very hard.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,063
Likes: 9,825
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
My track buddy has an E36 BMW with an LS1/t56 swap. First weekend out he developed the same clutch pedal issue I have. He has the monster stage 2 single disc clutch. He ends up drilling some ventilation holes in the bell housing to get some air flow in and cool the slave cylinder. So far that has worked for him, and he tracks the car very hard.
Bill
Racer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 336
Likes: 40
From: Longview WA
I have the ticks adjustable + Mcleod twin disc street clutch...
When I bleed the clutch using the remote bleeder, my pedal will remain on the floor basically. Someone suggested removing the return spring as it acts as an assist through part of its motion? Perhaps you need to remove yours?
**
Do you have a stock master cylinder? If so - probably keep the spring.
If not, the adjustable cylinder (ticks) can change the pedal height. The return/assist spring that sits over the pedal/master cylinder, pushes the pedal up at the end of the stroke, and assists when pressing the pedal (past a certain point).
Just from what I've read on other threads... it is optimal to have a little bit of free play or ensure the clutch is returning all the way as it has an internal passage to relieve pressure....
Someone more enlightened can clarify
When I bleed the clutch using the remote bleeder, my pedal will remain on the floor basically. Someone suggested removing the return spring as it acts as an assist through part of its motion? Perhaps you need to remove yours?
**
Do you have a stock master cylinder? If so - probably keep the spring.
If not, the adjustable cylinder (ticks) can change the pedal height. The return/assist spring that sits over the pedal/master cylinder, pushes the pedal up at the end of the stroke, and assists when pressing the pedal (past a certain point).
Just from what I've read on other threads... it is optimal to have a little bit of free play or ensure the clutch is returning all the way as it has an internal passage to relieve pressure....
Someone more enlightened can clarify
Last edited by derz_vette; Jan 22, 2017 at 06:15 PM.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 535
Likes: 92
From: Raleigh NC
Yes, even with the original motor it did very well. He just got tired of being stuck behind high hp cars in the corners only to have them muscle away on the straights. Now that's not a problem, haha.