When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have my aftermarket plate off and conveniently leaning against my work bench so it would be a simple matter of measuring and drawing it up. The question goes to incentive . . .
I should make one with triangulated ribbing so it actually does something
I have the model done - I patterned it after my aftermarket unit that was on my C5 for several years so it fits correctly. I'm also doing a dimensioned drawing for documentation's sake.
I'd be careful with ducting louvers since this is meant to not only stiffen, but insulate from exhaust heat as well. If you louver it, you may be allowing heat from the H/X pipe to blow into the tunnel and heat up the cabin tunnel. I attached a sheet of adhesive heat shielding to my plate and it insulates very nicely.
I'd be careful with ducting louvers since this is meant to not only stiffen, but insulate from exhaust heat as well. If you louver it, you may be allowing heat from the H/X pipe to blow into the tunnel and heat up the cabin tunnel. I attached a sheet of adhesive heat shielding to my plate and it insulates very nicely.
You are correct on that. My issue with the insulation, I have some on mine BTW, is that insulation eventually allows heat transfer. And don't get me started on using aluminium as a device who's secondary objective is to insulate heat...... or again on the aftermarket solution for a steel plate is to use a material that is 1/3 the stiffness but make it 3 times as thick.
If you could create a low pressure area on the bottom side of the tunnel plate, you could then force air from the engine bay area through the tunnel and out the bottom of the plate, keeping fresh cool air in the tunnel.
You are correct on that. My issue with the insulation, I have some on mine BTW, is that insulation eventually allows heat transfer. And don't get me started on using aluminium as a device who's secondary objective is to insulate heat...... or again on the aftermarket solution for a steel plate is to use a material that is 1/3 the stiffness but make it 3 times as thick.
If you could create a low pressure area on the bottom side of the tunnel plate, you could then force air from the engine bay area through the tunnel and out the bottom of the plate, keeping fresh cool air in the tunnel.
........in theory at least.
Hmm . . . isn't that kind of airflow referred to as "lift"? Last thing I'd want under my C5 is hot air pushing downward at speed.
Anyway, I have the model and machine dwg. done. Where's the OP at - he asked for this to begin with.
Hmm . . . isn't that kind of airflow referred to as "lift"? Last thing I'd want under my C5 is hot air pushing downward at speed.
Well, sort of.
Low pressure on the bottom of the tunnel plate would mean higher pressure on the top of the plate, and would then create a force in the downward direction. However, I seriously doubt that the airflow in that area is fast enough to actually create such a force........ it probably would not even create enough airflow to cool the tunnel area.
And yes, a lot of hot air in this thread. I bought a standard aftermarket plate and bolted it up. It is fun to go through the exercise though.