My '02 just hit 11,000 miles and I wanted to get those stock plugs out of there. Just picked up some NGK TR-55 plugs (part number 3951). I have a couple of questions: ;)

1) These come gapped at about .059", should I change the gap? To what? I am not too familiar with how to gap plugs...
2) Do I need to change the stock wires? Or can I keep the stockers and use the heat shields they have?
3) Also purchased some dielectric silicone (for plug/wire connection) and anti-seize (for plug), sound good?
4) Should the engine be dead cold when I start changing them?

I got a spark plug socket (5/8) and a double swivel joint so hopefully that will help with the #7 plug. I appreciate the help folks! :D

Patrick :D :cheers:

 

the factory manual calls out 0.060" gap, you definitely want the engine stone cold

If you buy an OE type replacement set of plugwires the heat shields slide off the OE set and can be re-used on the new set. O'Reilly's and other parts stores should have the wires in stock. Most now come pre-lubed with dielectric grease. Most part stores now have a sparkplug install kit that gives you a small container of dielectric grease and anti-sieze. I recommend taking a cue-tip and smearing add'l dielectric grease inside the boot surface.

You'll find the OE wires extremely difficult to remove, most likely not lubed by the factory, which is why I just recommend replacing them with a plug change. The OE wires are difficult to remove without separating at least one wire from the plug clip. I couldn't even get the boots off until I used a special set of long needle nose pliers with hooked ends that are designed for pulling rubber tubing; called gripper pliers, Harbor Freight has them cheap. If you replace the wires it won't matter if they get damaged. I know too many people that have had issues with aftermarket performance wires. Let's face it, there is no real performance there, just get the OE type. Think I paid ~$35 at O'Reillys.

The job is much easier if you pull the plastic injector covers off the top of the engine. Drivers side is worst to do, particularly the back plug, so do it first. That way you're frustration level decreases as the job progresses :). You'll need some extensions and a swivel connector, expect cuts and scrapes on your hands and arms; it's tight in there. The plug torque spec is 11 lb-ft, be sure to anti-sieze the plug threads before installing.

ps: here's a helpful trick, wrap the swivel joint several times with black electrical tape. This keeps the swivel from just flopping over to the side, yet doesn't impair the swivel action when used. Some swivels now have a spring to accomplish the same thing.

otherwise, have fun

Mark


[Modified by TeamZ06, 8:06 PM 9/21/2002]

 

I just did mine today. I used the NGK TR-55 and I also changed the wires. I went with the Taylor Thndervolts, wires are 10.4 mm which is almost twice the size of the stockers. #7 plug was a PITA did it 1st rest were not bad at all. I had mine on the Dyno last weekend and the Dyno numbers were way down from what they should of been. I posted the Dyno graph and I went with what just about everyone said. I only pulled a 288 and a 293 and I should of been over 300. The Dyno graph was not smooth which cause some HP lose.

 

.059 is good,stone cold for your own sake and :blueangel: on #7 even with a knuckle socket if you have big hands. I had to sweet talk my wife into helping. You know :D that BONDING thing.

 

Thanks for the right-up Mark, I appreciate it! I will figure out what I want to do with the wires, I may just see if I can get the wires off first and if not, I'll go get some OE replacements... :)

Patrick :cheers:

 

Check out this post : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=387873

Changing plugs and wires is a 15 minute job without any special tools if you remove the coilpack on the drivers side (5 bolts + 1 connector, takes one minute to remove).

:cheers: