Am I correct that there is actualy a bleed valve somewhere in the stock system alowing you to actually bleed the clutch under the tunnel area underneath. I'm sure it would be much cleaner system doing it that way wouldn't it? I've read that the fluid constantly is transfered between the master and slave cylinder down there with the reservoir really not allowing things to really get totaly circulated. I'd like to know it's all clean the first time myself.
And without removing the transmission of course.

 

What the service manual doesn't mention is that unless you drop the drivetrain, it's virtually impossible to get a wrench on the bleeder valve unless you have hands and arms the size of a 5-year-old.

 

All you have to do is drop the exhaust midpipe and remove the tunnel plate.

 

Haven't found any posts where a hole was drilled in the tunnel plate to access the bleed valve in a Corvette. I would consider it if I didn't have plans to replace the clutch. Would need some dimensions as to location for the hole before attempting this.
It has been done on the Camaro and a rubber seal was used to plug the hole. Fold back the carpet, remove the rubber seal and bleed the clutch. Sounds pretty easy right?

 

I ment the tunnel, not the tunnel plate.

 

I was doing some searches on this matter 2 evenings ago and did read where a guy did cut a hole in the tunnel on a C4 or C5 and even made a little door with a hinge he opened to access this. Can't remember where I read it though, just Googeling.

 

 

I did drill a hole in the tunnel of my C4 but that was for access to the bell housing bolts. The C4 did not have the slave inside the bell housing but mounted out side were you had good access to it. I don't know if a hole in the tunnel of a C5 would work. I would think the hole would have to be too far forward to have good access to it.
Dave

 

Leave the car intact and do it this way. If the fluid is black look to doing a clutch job soon as the slave seal is failing.

People who buy these cars for some reason never change the clutch or brake fluid as general maintenance as they should.

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

 

NOT!

 

Done it several times, but now I have a remote bleeder. I don't have insight into your difficulties, but I can assure you the bleed valve can be easily accessed after removing the exhaust mid-pipe and tunnel plate.

 

This is the procedure right out of the C5 FSM.
Hydraulic Clutch Bleeding
Notice: DO NOT use fluid which has been bled from a hydraulic clutch system, in order to fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir, due to the possibility that the fluid may be aerated, have too much moisture content, or be contaminated and may cause system or vehicle damage.
Bleeding the hydraulic clutch system is necessary whenever the level of fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the master cylinder.

1. Clean all dirt and debris from the clutch master cylinder cap to ensure that no foreign substances will enter the system.
2. Remove the clutch master cylinder reservoir cap with diaphragm.
3. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with clutch hydraulic fluid GM P/N 12345347, GM Canada P/N 10953517, or equivalent, if necessary.
4. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
5. Remove the catalytic converter. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement in Engine Exhaust.
6. Remove the driveline tunnel closeout panel. Refer to Floor Panel Tunnel Panel Reinforcement Replacement in Propeller Shaft.
7. Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal fully and hold.
8. Loosen the bleeder screw on the clutch actuator cylinder to purge air.
9. Tighten the bleeder screw.
10. Release the clutch pedal.
11. Repeat steps 7 through 10 until all air is completely evacuated.
Check and refill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with clutch hydraulic fluid GM P/N 12345347, GM Canada P/N 10953517, or equivalent, as necessary in order to prevent air from being drawn through the clutch master cylinder.
12. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with clutch hydraulic fluid GM P/N 12345347, GM Canada P/N 10953517, or equivalent, if necessary.
13. Install the driveline tunnel closeout panel. Refer to Floor Panel Tunnel Panel Reinforcement Replacement in Propeller Shaft.
14. Install the catalytic converter. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement in Engine Exhaust.
15. Lower the vehicle.

Bill

 

...and there you have it from the horse's mouth

Which part is still confusing you, Fatboy and Huesmann?

 

I can't even see up in there on my car, if I took the header off I "MIGHT" be able to see up there, no way in hell I'd be able to reach up in there.....much less get a wrench up in that spot, turning said wrench would be out of the question.

 

Well headers could complicate things of course. You didn't mention that part. But headers aren't particularly difficult to remove.

 

Been there Can't done that.