Column Lock---what worked for me.



Leave key in car with engine running.
Remove fuse #25 (under passenger seat in fuse box, look on diagram).
Now while car is still running, the DIC is blank, you can turn the steering wheel, and the column lock is released. However, if I pulled forward, the car died.
Put the fuse back in.
Start car.
Now the car started fine for me and after a number of tests, everything is still ok, the Service Column Lock no longer comes on and the car drives and handles normally.
I'm glad I finally got it to work, but yes, I'm taking it to the dealer to get the new fix. I figure I'd better not push my luck before the thing totally fails.
It sure would be nice to hear from someone else that your procedure or my variation worked for them.



Your method is now in a Word document on my HD.
Let's hope someone else tries your method soon so we have better proof that the method works and not just that you got lucky. Many members have had their coulums lock and for no reason some time passes and then the lock works again---all with nobody doing anything.
If this procedure works consistently I would bet it will become the standard and that it will do away with buying the CLB.
I would be interested to hear if anyone attempts this with just the car electrical on, and without the engine running. This would be a little safer and should have the same effect (electrically...). From my one experience with this, it looks like a litte brute-force on the steering wheel during ignition is the best solution so far.



didn´t you get the message on the DIC "Pull key and wait for 10 sec" when this happened?
This last time however, it would not unlock even with hard turns on the wheel, etc. That's when I started experimenting with some information from an old column lock post on the Forum. Finally, after many different combinations of key, wheel turn, fuse, etc. the column unlocked when the car was running and the fuse pulled, but not before.
Sarjeant...I tried the hard turning of the wheel and it didn't work. I also tried pulling the fuse with the electrical on and it didn't work either. It may just be coincidence, but when the car was running and the fuse pulled, it was like it had never locked in the first place. I didn't hear any clicking or other indication that it had cleared...I just got in and it was unlocked and the wheels would turn. I then started to pull forward and the car died. I then started it again and everything was fine...no DIC code or anything. Could the extra benefit of power steering have helped with the engine running? What would make a difference between the car running and not running? I don't know...all I know is that it worked that way and I hope I never have to test it again.
By the way, the dealer can't work on it before Friday so I'm going to leave it in the garage until then. I could get the COH bypass but will wait to see what the dealer can do first.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts



[Modified by FunDriver, 11:22 PM 9/23/2002]
I printed out your fix and will keep a copy in the glove box just in case.
You may very well come to the rescue one dark and rainy night!



I printed out your fix and will keep a copy in the glove box just in case.
You may very well come to the rescue one dark and rainy night!
By the way, that fuse is kind of hard to get out without some needle-nosed pliers---and a flashlight would be helpful too since, as I recall, when I pulled the fuse the passenger courtesy light also went out, so you don't have that light source when re-inserting the fuse.
Good luck to you. :cheers:
[Modified by FunDriver, 12:01 AM 9/25/2002]
Is there a fuse puller inside the fuse box? Isn't there a fuse puller in the fuse panel next to the battery? Will either of these pullers work?








