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1998 Crank Pulley Misalingment- WTF!

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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 10:49 AM
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Default 1998 Crank Pulley Misalingment- WTF!

On my most recent trip to the track the first two time runs were normal but on run #3 and later runs the car really fell off almost four tenths in the 1/4. I suspected an issue with the serpentine drive belt since boost seemed down a bit. Upon inspection back in the garage the belt looked OK but the belt was two ribs off the crank pulley (see pic). The belt is properly aligned with the pulleys on all the accessories but it seems the forward section of the crank pulley has moved back toward the engine. The pulley was supposedly pinned as part of the Lingenfelter Maggie SC install. It seems the forward part of the pulley is OK. I would appreciate if someone can tell me what in the hell is going on.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 11:22 AM
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Thats easy, it separated from the center hub. You need a new balancer.
Chris
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Cutlassmaster
Thats easy, it separated from the center hub. You need a new balancer.
Chris
Thanks. I did not realize such a thing happened. Given my mild setup (see signature) do you recommend a stock replacement or should I go to an aftermarket balancer?

Last edited by BIGMAC; Feb 18, 2017 at 12:11 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 12:34 PM
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its pretty common in fact another thread a couple below yours same issue. Aftermarket is the way to go. Lots of threads on proper replacement also, just search

Last edited by feeder82; Feb 18, 2017 at 12:35 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGMAC
Thanks. I did not realize such a thing happened. Given my mild setup (see signature) do you recommend a stock replacement or should I go to an aftermarket balancer?
DO NOT go with a OEM Stock unit or it will happen again somewhere down the road. Most of us have either gone with a Dayco Powerbond OEM replacement or an ATI Balancer. Either or, you will also have to get a new balancer bolt as the one on there is a torque to yield bolt. Use once and your done. Again, most go with a ARP bolt. Much better and it can be removed and re-torqued again and again. Also, if your running a
Maggie you'll want to have the new balancer pinned.
Good Luck

Last edited by SG Lou; Feb 18, 2017 at 03:44 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by SG Lou
DO NOT go with a OEM Stock unit or it will happen again somewhere down the road. Most of us have either gone with a Dayco Powerbond OEM replacement or an ATI Balancer. Either or, you will also have to get a new balancer bolt as the one on there is a torque to yield bolt. Use once and your done. Again, most go with a ARP bolt. Much better and it can be removed and re-torqued again and again. Also, if your running a
Maggie you'll want to have the new balancer pinned.
Good Luck
Thanks. The balancer on the car was pinned by Lingenfelter. Does that present a problem for removal?

BIGMAC
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGMAC
Thanks. The balancer on the car was pinned by Lingenfelter. Does that present a problem for removal?

BIGMAC
Not at all. Most of the time pinning is done from the front. although I have seen some that was pinned from the side. Easy to check though.

Last edited by SG Lou; Feb 18, 2017 at 04:15 PM.
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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by SG Lou
Not at all. Most of the time pinning is done from the front. although I have seen some that was pinned from the side. Easy to check though.



What do people generally do when changing a formerly
Pinned crank, do you just make another hole?
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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by hatewhatownsyou
What do people generally do when changing a formerly
Pinned crank, do you just make another hole?
You possibly could but if an acquired drill template matches the original hole then the template could be aligned with the partial hole already drilled into the crank snout and then only the balancer portion could be drilled out.
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