When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Replacing ignition Lock cylinder and programming Pass key (Merged)
I had to replace my ignition lock cylinder and received a new pass key with the purchase.Is there any instructions on how I can reprogram my Vehicle to recognize the the new ignition and key, My Vehicle is a 1998 C5
Does the new key have the same resistance in the pellet? If yes, just install new switch. If not, is there a reason you are replacing the old key? If the old key isn't worn, it would be easier to have the tumblers changed in the ignition switch cylinder. (I had mine done for $20 at a local key shop). Keeping your old key keeps functionality with the rest of the locks on the car.
Not sure how to reprogram the BCM to accept new key resistance. Someone else will have to chime in.
Last edited by 3sACROWD; Feb 23, 2017 at 12:31 PM.
I realize this thread is 4 years old but hoping #sACROWD is still reading it.
How do you know if the new switch will have the same resistance as your old key? I dont want to change the door locks just replace the tumbler in the ignition cylinder?
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Originally Posted by SkinS
I realize this thread is 4 years old but hoping #sACROWD is still reading it.
How do you know if the new switch will have the same resistance as your old key? I dont want to change the door locks just replace the tumbler in the ignition cylinder?
If you re-key the new switch to fit your old key you will be fine
The switch doesn't have resistance, only the key has the resistor pellet.
Agreed. Think of the ignition switch as a place to plug in the key resistor. The BCM then reads the key resistor value and if a match will allow the car to start. The tumblers in the switch are mechanical and the profile of the key has to match the tumblers for the cylinder to turn.
I realize this is an old thread but I had the same issue of intermittent no starts. My car is a 2002 6sp convertible that I enjoy (both daily and roadtrips) so it has 165,000 miles on it. I had previously installed the LMC5 replaced the switch but was having to move the steering wheel to get the car to turn over, which was taking more and more time this past year.
So I read here on the forum this means the ignition lock cylinder is bad, such that the contacts don't always read the resistor pellet. Made sense since mine was sloppy and these are darned hard to find; on indefinite backorder from GM. I have the LMC5 installed so called Richard. I considered bypassing it but decided with the steering wheel lock disabled I didn't want to also bypass the VATS. After lots of searching, plus ordering online only to get an email saying they refunded me since didn't actually have it, I found a place that had one left.
I bought it, had locksmith rekey it, then installed the new one. I also installed a new ignition switch while in there since it's so much work to get to it.
But despite it being new and tight, I still have to turn the steering wheel some every time for it to start. What else can I check?
"90% of the ignition switch problems that I help diagnose is related to the two large connectors the plug into the ignition switch. The female pins spread apart which make a poor intermittent connection on the male pins in the body of the ignition switch. Carefully examine the female pins inside the harness connector and look for female pins that do not have a pronounced metal tang that should be easily visible. If the tang is bent and can no longer make contact with the male pin, there’s your issue. Splicing on a new connector it friggen EXPENSIVE! $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. I have had great success de-pinning the connector one wire at a time and re-bending the little tang so that it makes positive connection 100% of the time."
Sure enough, wiggling the black connector on my car has it start every time.