drivejumpfly

I started trying to find out how water is entering my car when I take it to the car wash. Started by spraying water up the rear edge of the windows to see where the leaks started. In doing so I realized that water is entering near the top rear of the windows. I removed the targa top and observed that the weather stripping was behind the plastic that attaches to the thin "roof" between the targa top and the rear hatch. Can anyone tell me if the weather stripping should be in front of the plastic or behind the plastic? See the picture below. For the sake of the picture I have half of it behind the plastic (right) and half in front of the plastic (left). The center line reference shows where the rubber was pulled from behind the plastic.



At this point in time I think it is best to order that entire strip and have it replaced because I have not seen a good video on how to do that on my own. I just want to make sure I know how it should be installed correctly.

Macleod52

Mine does what yours is doing. It shouldn't matter I don't think. Have you tightened the latch to see if that resolves your issue? I'm wondering if it's not clamping down tight enough and allowing water through.

ehillard0

My weather stripping is in behind the plastic trim and I didn't have any leaks in that area with the original weather stripping. I recently replaced the weather stripping on the sides of the targa and the piece you're referencing for about $250 and a few hours of my time.

Before replacing the weather stripping it was very easy to take my targa off / on. It's like it would sink into the holes if that makes sense. After replacing the weather stripping, you actually have to push the targa into the holes, and you can feel the extra effort it takes to close the latches.

lionelhutz

Get the GM weatherstripping. The approximately $100 aftermarket one is no good.

That weatherstripping is a channel that catches the water along the top and channels it to both sides. So, the area around the targa top pins needs to be in good shape so the water doesn't dump into the car around the pins. Then, the water runs inside the weatherstrip going down the back of the side windows where it exits a hole into the door frame.

The cheap aftermarket piece has the passageway down the sides blocked with foam so the water can't escape. Then, it backs up into the car. It also is glued together from multiple pieces and it starts to separate shortly after being installed.

As for the picture you post. My car had the weatherstrip in front of the trim, presumably for a cleaner look. But, it doesn't really matter.

ehillard0

The passageway down the sides on my cheap after market piece are not blocked by any such foam, is all one solid piece, has the same exact channels as the GM weather stripping, and has zero leaks for a third of the price.

lionelhutz

And your post would actually be useful if you shared the exact make, p/n and where you got it...

There have been multiple pictures posted here showing issues with the aftermarket halo pieces.

ehillard0

I don't see the reason for your attitude? Unless I am misunderstanding the forum rules, posting a link to another Corvette site is not permitted, so I didn't post the source / part number. The author of this thread is more than welcome to PM me for more details. Besides, you could have just as easily replied with the thread(s) showing the issues with the aftermarket halo pieces.

I'm more than happy with my non GM weather stripping which hasn't leaked since I put it on my car six months ago.

SG Lou

Here's a easy how to :

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...procedure.html

lionelhutz

I NEVER posted that you should post a link. You can provide useful information on where to find quality products without posting a link. If there is a new part that is actually decent then everyone would benefit from knowing what it is.

I have absolutely no motivation to search for threads with pictures of the poor quality aftermarket parts. I believe the part that was posted was always a Metro piece, but I'm not positive. I know the one I used was a Metro part and it definitely is a poorer quality then the original.

drivejumpfly

Thank you all for the feedback. This gives me more than enough information to do it on my own. I will let you know how things go as soon as the weather warms up.

SG Lou

I just saw the B pillar/ Halo molding from Metro on eBay for $129.00 and almost sprung for it earlier.....now that I read your post I'm glad I didn't.

lionelhutz

Look at the picture of that piece. See the lines at each end of the section that goes at the back of the side windows? It's separate parts that are glued together at those lines and the joints start to come apart shortly after it has been installed. It's also glued together at each end of the part across the targa top. Basically, the straight parts and the ends and the corners are all separate pieces. They put foam inside the gaskets to hold the side joints together but those channels along the side windows have to be open to allow water to drain.

SG Lou

After reading the OP's how to in this thread :
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...procedure.html
I pulled out the FSM and it instructs you to add beads of GM # 12345097 or equivalent , which in this case is Permatex Weather Strip Adhesive to certain area's which seen to correspond with the area's that already have the adhesive on the OEM weatherstrip.
No where in the OP's post do I see that he mentions adding adhesive ?

drivejumpfly

I ended up replacing that entire piece of weatherstrip with an OEM piece (yes, $) and recorded the entire thing. One of these days I will put the video together. Until then just reply to this thread if you have any questions and I will do my best to help you out. It really is not that hard. The most time consuming part is cleaning the existing adhesive gunk out of the channel. The hardest part is initially placing the new stripping in the channel. The targa top was really snug after the replacement and there were no more leaks at all.

strand rider

I think I can help explain the cost of the factory part, if needed.

The molds are tough to make, in that you have to factor in shrink as the material cools, not forgetting the complex curves are the same material as the straight sections and all have to finish out to be water tight over years. No wonder the after market low end glues parts together, the required trial and error molds to get correct finished dimensions can be expensive.

In discussing kit cars, one reading stated that wind noise is the main drawback to a professional outcome, lack of good sealing rubber. The same report mentioned up to 1 million dollars to develop the rubber door and glass seals on a typical coupe.
sounds pretty high, I bet they have super computers on the design now. Still three guys in a room with a bottle of glue, razor blades, and a template is a lot cheaper.